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**bobj3** · 08-03-2007, 11:44 PM

Hi Bud

Snapshots below...

Bj

**challagan** · 08-04-2007, 12:01 AM

Thanks Bj for the additional photos, that really looks good! You spent a lot of time on that. It's top notch like every thing you do. BTW, is that the amended version of the table saw tenon jig? Going to have to make a bigger base for it to use on the router table... to get it close to the action? Thanks again Bj!

Corey

**bobj3** · 08-04-2007, 12:23 AM

You'er Welcome Corey anytime

"tenon jig" = I saw the video that Router posted and It got me going,, this one will have bigger base plate that will run in the tee-slot and will put the jig over the router bit,, got most of the details worked out, I'm going to use the hand crank type to move the bit up and and down and make a guage to so how height it is when I crank it to make the slot...need to rework the jig just a bit so it can hold the stock down lower...I got the Delta one out and played with it for a bit and I said I made this wooden one along time ago and it's time to put it to work again ...with just a be of rework...
I'm not sure what router I'm going to use I think it will be the new Craftsman with the razer built in...and a place for the gage right on the router with a screw stand off to hold it in place..quick on and off thing..

Bj

Quote:

Originally Posted by challagan

Thanks Bj for the additional photos, that really looks good! You spent a lot of time on that. It's top notch like every thing you do. BTW, is that the amended version of the table saw tenon jig? Going to have to make a bigger base for it to use on the router table... to get it close to the action? Thanks again Bj!

Corey

**harrysin** · 08-04-2007, 12:52 AM

Bj, you're shop looks more like Tom's every day! May I be so bold as to give you a hint? I'll give it anyway: Make the material larger than the finished item, this way the cutter can never get near the cams. This also means that you don't rout all the way through the material or the loose centre will hit the cutter. Leave about the last 3/32" which you then cut with the scroll, band, jig or whatever other kind of saw turns you on. Follow this on the router table using a straight bearing cutter, this is where having a permanent router in the table comes into it's own and is why when Tom had his factory there were three or four tables each set up with a different cutter, it's like having several drills set-up when into a big project, no time wasted changing bits.

**bobj3** · 08-04-2007, 01:09 AM

Hi Harry

The blank lid is about 7" x 12" the template for that one will be about 12" x 16" or about that,, the one in snapshot is just some 1/4" stock I had on the work bench to show Corey the size of the cams I'm going to use to lock the template in place..

The router bit should not come near the cams at all..

The other lid (walnut) is about 8" x 9' and the template for that one will be about the same 12" x 14" so I can lock it in place with the cams..and put the same pattern in that one, just same as the other..

BUT if you are talking about the snapshot with skis it ,, this was a test board only, I wanted to see what it could do it ,,, and stay true to the sides on the blank ...and pushing a 1/2" bit into it...I wanted to see if the cams would hold it in place...

I had a scrap under the blank just in case I pushed it to hard... it did the job in two passes about 3/8" deep on each pass...

Bj

Bj

**harrysin** · 08-04-2007, 05:42 AM

Bj, I've only just realised you're design innovation of the cam jig, where the thin cams hold the work-piece and the thick ones hold the template. Whilst not as convenient as a dedicated box where all you're templates are the same size, ie: 12" x 16" (or whatever) this means that it is tricky to get the template dead centred in spite of the well thought out squares, meaning for a project that requires the work-piece to be flipped-over, it is ESSENTIAL that the template is also flipped. There certainly is merit in you're design Bj. but do let us all know how it works over time.

**bobj3** · 08-04-2007, 09:35 AM

Hi Harry

Cams
That's the best part, the templates they can be any O.D. size or shape just as long as they fit over the part that's going to be worked on...as long as they sit on top of the item that's gets the bit stuck into it..

the opening in the template is the key and if the lid,box,etc. is marked with a pencil it should be easy to line up the template on top of it...if not it can always be trimed after the router job...on the band saw then use the trim bit to clean it up if needed...

I know you and Tom are the Pro.'s with this type of routing but I'm just a user but I always play with things b/4 I used them..if this type of cam hold downs don't work I can always make a frame to go around the base board like yours and Tom's.. can't wait till Monday or some time next week to give it a shot ( give it a GO )

Bj

**challagan** · 08-04-2007, 10:14 AM

Thanks Bj and Harry for the info. It is now just hitting me that you can pretty much make one of these real easily and as simple or complicated as you want and pretty much as big or small as you want.

I am going to the shop here in a bit....it is going to be a real bugger out today... I may not be able to work in the shop due to the heat and humidity, but if not I will be thinking on this one.

Corey

08-03-2007, 11:44 PM	#1
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,084 View bobj3's Gallery	For Corey Hi Bud Snapshots below... Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 08-06-2007 at 01:05 PM.
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08-04-2007, 12:01 AM	#2
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,943 View challagan's Gallery	Thanks Bj for the additional photos, that really looks good! You spent a lot of time on that. It's top notch like every thing you do. BTW, is that the amended version of the table saw tenon jig? Going to have to make a bigger base for it to use on the router table... to get it close to the action? Thanks again Bj! Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/ Last edited by challagan; 08-04-2007 at 12:04 AM.
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08-04-2007, 12:52 AM	#4
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,653 View harrysin's Gallery	Bj, you're shop looks more like Tom's every day! May I be so bold as to give you a hint? I'll give it anyway: Make the material larger than the finished item, this way the cutter can never get near the cams. This also means that you don't rout all the way through the material or the loose centre will hit the cutter. Leave about the last 3/32" which you then cut with the scroll, band, jig or whatever other kind of saw turns you on. Follow this on the router table using a straight bearing cutter, this is where having a permanent router in the table comes into it's own and is why when Tom had his factory there were three or four tables each set up with a different cutter, it's like having several drills set-up when into a big project, no time wasted changing bits. __________________ *Harry*
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08-04-2007, 01:09 AM	#5
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,084 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Harry The blank lid is about 7" x 12" the template for that one will be about 12" x 16" or about that,, the one in snapshot is just some 1/4" stock I had on the work bench to show Corey the size of the cams I'm going to use to lock the template in place.. The router bit should not come near the cams at all.. The other lid (walnut) is about 8" x 9' and the template for that one will be about the same 12" x 14" so I can lock it in place with the cams..and put the same pattern in that one, just same as the other.. BUT if you are talking about the snapshot with skis it ,, this was a test board only, I wanted to see what it could do it ,,, and stay true to the sides on the blank ...and pushing a 1/2" bit into it...I wanted to see if the cams would hold it in place... I had a scrap under the blank just in case I pushed it to hard... it did the job in two passes about 3/8" deep on each pass... Bj Bj __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 08-04-2007 at 01:25 AM.
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08-04-2007, 05:42 AM	#6
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,653 View harrysin's Gallery	Bj, I've only just realised you're design innovation of the cam jig, where the thin cams hold the work-piece and the thick ones hold the template. Whilst not as convenient as a dedicated box where all you're templates are the same size, ie: 12" x 16" (or whatever) this means that it is tricky to get the template dead centred in spite of the well thought out squares, meaning for a project that requires the work-piece to be flipped-over, it is ESSENTIAL that the template is also flipped. There certainly is merit in you're design Bj. but do let us all know how it works over time. __________________ *Harry*
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08-04-2007, 09:35 AM	#7
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,084 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Harry Cams That's the best part, the templates they can be any O.D. size or shape just as long as they fit over the part that's going to be worked on...as long as they sit on top of the item that's gets the bit stuck into it.. the opening in the template is the key and if the lid,box,etc. is marked with a pencil it should be easy to line up the template on top of it...if not it can always be trimed after the router job...on the band saw then use the trim bit to clean it up if needed... I know you and Tom are the Pro.'s with this type of routing but I'm just a user but I always play with things b/4 I used them..if this type of cam hold downs don't work I can always make a frame to go around the base board like yours and Tom's.. can't wait till Monday or some time next week to give it a shot ( give it a GO ) Bj __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 08-04-2007 at 02:02 PM.
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08-04-2007, 10:14 AM	#8
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,943 View challagan's Gallery	Thanks Bj and Harry for the info. It is now just hitting me that you can pretty much make one of these real easily and as simple or complicated as you want and pretty much as big or small as you want. I am going to the shop here in a bit....it is going to be a real bugger out today... I may not be able to work in the shop due to the heat and humidity, but if not I will be thinking on this one. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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