Nickbee

I’ve done build along threads for my RC airplanes before. I enjoy them. You guys can watch my progress, tell me how to do things better / easier, and I can ask questions.

To tell you the truth it’s the 1st box I’m making with kind of joint (besides a but joint). It will be a simple 7x7x3.5 box with an open top and a cork lined bottom for tossing keys / change into.

Now I’d love to tackle a nice inlayed fingered or dovetail joint. But since my router table set up is an “in progress” project I’m limited to my old table saw for making some joints. So I’m going to start with a simple dado joint (I think that’s what this joint is called, correct me if I’m wrong) cut a little larger to accept a 1/32 inlay.

Like most of my projects this one starts out with a pad, pencil and lots of coffee.



I racked my brain for a while figuring out how place the inlays and how it effects my dado measurements. I seriously need to learn how to use sketch up one of these days.

Here’s the raw wood. A nice piece of poplar from Lowes and sheet of 1/32 walnut from my hobby store.







I’m liking the grain of the poplar. And the walnut should provide a nice contrast for the inlay.

Off to the power tool I have to relay on for my cuts / dados. A table saw that is most likely twice as old as I am. To give you an idea of how old this “hand-me-down” from my father is… This saw was given to him 30 years ago from the printing company that we worked for. They used it years before that for cutting lead printing plates! I have to look at the labels closer one night and see if I can find a date of manufacture on it.

The good news is that it’s solid and has a decent guild that “clicks” as you twist it. It actually makes decent dados. One day I need to adapt some kid of fence for ripping as now I use an angle iron and a few claps (gets the job done in a pinch).



But no ripping today. Since the wood from Lowes is 3.5” I’m going to make the box sides 7” to give a pleasant “half cube” appearance.

As I cut I keep the wood in order and mark what will become the outsides and bottoms of the box. This should allow the grain to “flow” around the box.

As seen in the mock up:



Then it’s back to the saw to set the blade height per my drawings:



And then I start cutting my dados. Pass by pass on the blade.



The results are pretty precise. And if I’m off by a few thousandths of an inch I figure I’ll have some wiggle room with the inlays. And when all else fails there is always sandpaper!

Another mock up after cutting 2 pieces shows my design looks about right. With the inlays in the joint I should have a 90 deg angle.



Next I cut some inlays. I mark the “clean” edge with an arrow. This will be used to glue them in the proper orientation.



After doing some head scratching I figure out the best way to start gluing the inlays. The game plan is to use the clean edge against the inside of my cuts. Then cut / sand the inlay’s overhang flush with the wood after gluing. This way I don’t have to go crazy cutting precise inlays. Will it work? Stay tuned…

Here’s my magnetic building board in action. My 90 deg jigs hold everything tight while the glue sets. I’m using Titebond II because it’s what I had around. It was either that or epoxy. Figured wood glue for wood. But if there’s something better I could use for the rest of this project let me know.



Here’s a close up of the overhang:



This will sit for a nice 24 hour cure. I’ll report more as I make progress. But I’m not sure how much I’ll get done this week since I also have a project I need to finish varnishing. I can’t make dust while that’s going on.

Advertising

Bob

Nick,

Being a box nut, I look forward to following your work-a-long.

Thanks for sharing with us.

__________________
Cheers,
Bob

Nickbee

No problem Bob. Since you're a box nut can you recommend a finish? I want something satin (natural, no stain) that brings out the grain. I'm familiar with brush-on poly but would like to start exploring other finishing techniques...

Thanks!

AxlMyk

I've just started using Tung Oil. Brings the grain out beautifully.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-100_2464s.jpg

__________________
Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman
My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/

challagan

I like to build up a gloss poly finish or a tung oil poly mixture and let it cure for several days and then rub it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax. Leaves a beautiful satin finish that is great to the touch.

Corey

__________________
My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver
http://iowacarver.tripod.com/

My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503
http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/

Nickbee

For finishing something that is not flat (like a box) is it better to use wipe on finishes to avoid drips?

challagan

Well I don't know about better but I think it is easier Nick. Lots of finishes out there to use though. Shellacs', poly's, wipe on poly, lacquer,. Another good wipe on finish is Danish oil.

corey

__________________
My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver
http://iowacarver.tripod.com/

My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503
http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/

Nickbee

gotcha. I'd like to try something besides brush on Poly just to get experience with something different. When the time gets closer to finishing I'll pick your brains...

Bob

Nick,

I have had really nice results with a coat of Danish oil, let dry 24 hrs and then a coat of General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by another 24 hr dry. After that the Gereral Finishes semi-gloss wipe on poly of 3-4 coats with the final process as Corey described using steel wool and wax. It has worked excellent and I get lots of praises on the finish from the receivers.

__________________
Cheers,
Bob

Nickbee

Great stuff Bob! I will pick your brain once I get close to finishing. Like I said earlier this project will be in a holding pattern for the next week or so while I finish up another project (a yarn swift for a friend). I will also post photos of that project once it's complete.

Thanks again!