vapochilled

First off, a huge thank you to you guys! Without your patience, I'm sure many more wood working novices would fall by the roadside, myself amongst them. So thank you all.
Now, she who must be obeyed, wanted darker cabinets and draws in the bathroom to compliment the ongoing renovations(guess who's got that job as well!)
I priced up both MDF covered and solid wood, the Oak was averaging about $55 for the doors and almost $30 for the draws.
So far my material cost is working out at about half that. Clearly the labor cost is where I'm saving, but my time is free right
Started off with 1/2" oak veneer ply and 2 1/2" x3/4" oak frame pieces.
Ripped the frame down to 2 1/4" and using a T&G bit made up the frames. T&G was not the first choice but the wife likes the clean look.
Cut the ply to size and then using a dado blade on the TS cut a 1/4"x1/4" dado all round to drop into the frame.
More pictures to follow as I finish them off but I'm so pleased with the results so far.
I'm not kidding myself that it in any way compares to the outstanding work I've seen on here by others. But this is my first "real" piece of finish woodwork since school! Not including rough carpentry for trim work and such.

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curiousgeorge

Looking good. All it takes is a lot of practice and patience so the next time it will be easier and better. Keep us posted on your progress.

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George

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem...

bobj3

Looks good David


Now your having fun with your router


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vapochilled

I am, I tell you what though, it sure makes you wonder how people builts ships and furniture by hand out of this stuff,lol
As far as a finish goes, I was thinking a dark stain and then a coat or three of spray poly? as it will be going from dry to humid often?
Also, I've left the panel loose in the frame, I don't mean flopping about, but not fixed is that right?

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bobj3

Your right on David

"flopping about" = they should move just a bit, here's a tip, pickup some thin insulation about 1/4" x 1/4" cut it into 1" long strips, place them in the slots..

"stain" = stain the panels b/4 you glue them up,,, it's hard to get in the corners after you have them glued up not to say anything about the glue push out in the corners,,that will act like a wood sealer and then show up as boltch in the stain job...


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vapochilled

Ooops, too late, too late the fair maiden cried!
I'll know on the next one

AxlMyk

Space balls could also be put in the grooves before inserting the panels. Little round balls of rubber that squish in to keep the panels from rattling.

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harrysin

Looking good David.

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Nickbee

looks great!!!! I'm starting a similar project soon for a friend's small kitchen. Since they will paint the doors I'm going to use poplar rails / stiles and birch ply panels. I might start with some sample doors this weekend.

jerrymayfield

Do your self a favor and don't spray varnish unless you have a dedicated spray area or can do it out side.It stays in the air a long time and seems to get on everything. You can get good results with a quality brush or by wiping it on. Much neater. A trick that is often used when staining after the door is complete is to use compressed air to nudge the stain where a brush or rag won't go. This has to be done while the stain is still wet and the pressure of the air is dialed down a great deal. Also if the frames are red oak,as they appear to be, the stain will bleed back for quite a while and you will have to keep wiping it off. After all that they look good.

Regards

Jerry