Tilt Table

allthunbs · 12-15-2008, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

HI Robin

Using a RAS may be the best way for you,,,it would only take one hand to do the job..

It's almost a over head pin router with all the bells and whistles in one tools..

It's not to hard to setup, but you may need someone to make the router bracket for you..

see some snapshots below for just some tips how to set it up..

======

Robin, I just saw this. Test this philosophy as well. The height/depth adjustment is under the table and is a crank. The arm locks and requires the release on top of the arm be pulled to change the movement of the arm. The motor moves back and forth on the arm and locks in any place. Those locks require body movement. If you can find a radial arm saw to try the various movements and locks would go a long way to helping determine what movements you can handle. Your local HD might have some on display that you can try out.

Allthunbs

**Mike** · 12-15-2008, 11:29 AM

Robin, if you can bring your hands together about 18-24" in front of your face then an overarm router would work well for you. With these machines you lower the bit into position and then move the wood. I am including a photo of a home built plan and another similar machine.

nickao65 · 12-15-2008, 04:17 PM

The only problem with the over arm router is the massive mess it creates, which may or may not be an issue for you. It is very difficult to create effective dust collection because every operation on the Pin router is different dependent upon the template or jig you are using. The dust collection issue is the sole reason I got rid of my pin routers. A pin router is great for making the same shape over and over and that I do miss, but I now have other ways.

So if sweeping up or working out effective dust collection for every project is an issue I would consider something other than a pin router. My opinion only.

allthunbs · 12-15-2008, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickao65

The only problem with the over arm router is the massive mess it creates, which may or may not be an issue for you. It is very difficult to create effective dust collection because every operation on the Pin router is different dependent upon the template or jig you are using. The dust collection issue is the sole reason I got rid of my pin routers. A pin router is great for making the same shape over and over and that I do miss, but I now have other ways.

So if sweeping up or working out effective dust collection for every project is an issue I would consider something other than a pin router. My opinion only.

Hey Nick: go back through this thread will you and see if you think skis might work, say with a 2hp Ridgid or something not too heavy? Is the Ridgid a two wrench system or does it have a spindle lock?

Allthunbs

nickao65 · 12-15-2008, 04:34 PM

I am not a ski person as I never have made one, though I started one in the past and will eventually complete it.

I defer to the other guys here to help out with that.

**bobj3** · 12-15-2008, 07:03 PM

Hi Guys

I'm not to sure if you could use the ski setup, it's true it will hold the weight of the router for him BUT maybe the pin router is the way to go for him.

I have the MLCS pin router setup and it's easy one to use..and a snap to setup as well..
One lever to use it...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../daisypin.html

I did rework just a bit so it sits up a bit higher than the norm and longer brass guide pins.
So it could put 6" tall stock/boxes under the guide pin..

.
=======

Robin · 12-22-2008, 08:30 AM

Thanks. This will take a few to digest. To turn left/right I use my hands and feet to turn the entire body. Have not found a chair for the dining table that works (allows for the brace part that extends past the hips) so I kneel at a coffee table to eat. Using the computer with a bar stool allows for the brace and using the feet to turn. The rest I will get back to you. Thanks

TAJones · 01-01-2009, 09:06 PM

Very interesting subject and very interesting to me as i have had 4 strokes lost some of my motor skills on the left side of my body, not able to stand for periods of more than about 30 minutes and can barely lift anything over 20 pounds. I am at the present building my shop to as close to a rolling chair height as possible.. I have found most everything i need to modify for my life disabilities. My scariest problem is getting cut as I take Plavix so going slow and being extra careful is always at the top of my thoughts, even a small cut means a run to the ER. Right now I have a Dewalt 1/4" shaft and a Sea 1/2" shank router, but plan on getting a Palm to replace the Dewalt for doing handheld work and then replacing the Sears later on. i make just about all my jigs.. It just takes me 4 or 5 times longer than it used to take. This is a really great forum with tons of great info. I use a rolling chair to move about while working and have replaced the front wheels with wheels that lock.. Right now I am building a router table that will be mounted on the side of my table saw. I thought about a tilted table, but now just plan on removing the table saw's legs and putting it on a low cabinet for routing while sitting down

Tom

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin

As anyone tried using a tilt table for a router? Having a table with a cut-out for a chair or a lower table just does not work for me. I am limited in the amount of movement I can do left to right or vice versa. If the table were tilted after mounting the work piece then I could scoot along with the work. Thanks.

allthunbs · 01-02-2009, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAJones

Very interesting subject and very interesting to me as i have had 4 strokes lost some of my motor skills on the left side of my body, not able to stand for periods of more than about 30 minutes and can barely lift anything over 20 pounds. I am at the present building my shop to as close to a rolling chair height as possible.. I have found most everything i need to modify for my life disabilities. My scariest problem is getting cut as I take Plavix so going slow and being extra careful is always at the top of my thoughts, even a small cut means a run to the ER. Right now I have a Dewalt 1/4" shaft and a Sea 1/2" shank router, but plan on getting a Palm to replace the Dewalt for doing handheld work and then replacing the Sears later on. i make just about all my jigs.. It just takes me 4 or 5 times longer than it used to take. This is a really great forum with tons of great info. I use a rolling chair to move about while working and have replaced the front wheels with wheels that lock.. Right now I am building a router table that will be mounted on the side of my table saw. I thought about a tilted table, but now just plan on removing the table saw's legs and putting it on a low cabinet for routing while sitting down

Tom

Tom: hold on. Take a look at skiis. Search for them in the search window above. I wrote two articles for neophytes and HarrySin and Bob3j also have contributions. Read all of them before you start figuring our your table. It is possible that skis will serve you better than table mounted. Also skis can support the weight and power of all of your routers. Read those items than come back here with your observations then will discuss which direction you head you in.

Allthunbs

**bobj3** · 01-02-2009, 07:26 PM

Hi Tom

I would suggest a round router table top and base cabinet for you

as you know a fence can be locked down anywhere on the top..

I would also suggest a round base cabinet so you can get your rolling chair under the edge of the top, the base, just hold the router with a cabinet next to hold the bits,jig,etc. you may need to screw the base down to the floor but that's not a big deal now with all the new type anchors they have out now..

The top would be 24" in diam. the router hole would be in the center of the top...

You can also get and use a round mounting plate by Veritas
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...000,51208&ap=1
This would made it a bit essayer for you to change the bits out..or adjust them..

With just a little bit of rework you could use some 1/4" drive universals to make a easy router lift to adjust the bit for you...

from the from side of the table top..

Here's a small quick drawing how to make the lift...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Handscrew-Kit-6-/H2850

=========

==========

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAJones

Very interesting subject and very interesting to me as i have had 4 strokes lost some of my motor skills on the left side of my body, not able to stand for periods of more than about 30 minutes and can barely lift anything over 20 pounds. I am at the present building my shop to as close to a rolling chair height as possible.. I have found most everything i need to modify for my life disabilities. My scariest problem is getting cut as I take Plavix so going slow and being extra careful is always at the top of my thoughts, even a small cut means a run to the ER. Right now I have a Dewalt 1/4" shaft and a Sea 1/2" shank router, but plan on getting a Palm to replace the Dewalt for doing handheld work and then replacing the Sears later on. i make just about all my jigs.. It just takes me 4 or 5 times longer than it used to take. This is a really great forum with tons of great info. I use a rolling chair to move about while working and have replaced the front wheels with wheels that lock.. Right now I am building a router table that will be mounted on the side of my table saw. I thought about a tilted table, but now just plan on removing the table saw's legs and putting it on a low cabinet for routing while sitting down

Tom

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