Free Hand Tips ??? got any?

bobj3

Hi Deb

Your welcome for my small part,,I did show that you can use a MilesCraft base plate that's a real quick way and a cheap way to make one..plus you have a jig that can be used for more than one job..if you buy a inlay kit from MilesCraft you have one, at a great price,,, plus you get new router bits as a kicker.. that you can use for free hand sign work as well


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mailee

Please excuse me if I am barking up the wrong tree but if it is free hand routing you are doing then I have done quite a bit making signs in the past. My tips are to use a plunge router and the smaller the better. Take small shallow cuts and I know this may seem strange but hold the router by it's base plate, this gives more control and finesse of cut. You are taking shallow cuts so there is no fear of the router digging in or kicking back. I normally use a 3mm cutter to outline the letters after I have marked around them with a modeling knife or scalpal. This only needs to be done lightly to sever the fibres around the letters. If you move up to the letter edge with a small sweeping motion you will see the wood whisp away from the edge giving a clean cut. It is also a good idea to tape a torch or I should say flashlight like one of the small aluminium ones to the router to highlight the work. Of course this method can be used on any shape you desire it just takes time. Oh and get yourself a comfy seat to work from, you will find it relaxing after a while. Hope this is of some help to you.

Dejure

Sharon, here are some samples signs that were all done entirely freehand. In each instance, I just drew the design on the wood and went for it (just used a 360 compass and marked of thirty degrees for the clock faces and used oil board letter templates for all else).

For the relief signs, I used my Porter Cable 690 with both a D handle and the standard base (I've since acquired a plunge base). For the signs that went entirely through the wood, I used my Bosch barrel handled jig saw. For later sign attempts, I used my Colt to get the outline and one of my others to clean out the debris.

In some ways, running a bit deeper makes it easier to avoid "oh crap" moments, since the bit moves slower, even in cedar. The saber, generally, has a lot of control anyway and you can take your time.

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	Sign-Rondo Kennels.jpg (117.7 KB, 6 views)
	Clock-Brown.jpg (80.3 KB, 7 views)

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Dejure

I said "In some ways, running a bit deeper makes it easier to avoid "oh crap" moments, since the bit moves slower," but should qualify this with a few hundred caveats: 1) It's easier to burn wood this way; 2) If you are pressing hard and hit a soft spot (you will), it can jump ahead. As such, as others advised, it's probably better to take small passes on the first run with a router. Course there "aint no small passes with a jig saw."

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The reason I have what you want is, I never lent it out before.

I have an affinity for saw dust, in its raw form.