Help
Require Assistance? Read the Beginners Guide to RouterForums.com
RouterForums.com - Router and Woodworking Discussion Community
Register Now!
It appears that you aren't a registered member, click below to instantly register and become a member of the RouterForums.com Community!

Register Now!

** Registration removes majority of the website advertisements **



Go Back   Router Forums > General Woodworking > Starting Off

countersinks in oak

This is a discussion on countersinks in oak within the Starting Off forums, part of the General Woodworking category; I'm building a bracket out of oak for a folding workbench I'm making. I tried ...



Replies: 3, Views: 185

New Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-14-2009, 07:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 253
rstermer is on a distinguished road

Default countersinks in oak
Report Post Report This Post!

I'm building a bracket out of oak for a folding workbench I'm making. I tried to countersink a hole in the bracket so a screw would go in flush but the countersink chattered on me and left a really ugly looking countersink. What adjustments do I need to make to get it to come out smooth. Also, in general, when going from softwoods to hardwoods, what changes should one make in tool speed, etc. pretty much everything I've worked on heretofore has been made out of pine.
Thanks for your assistance.

rstermer
rstermer is offline  
Alt Sponsor Post
Advertising



Remove these advertisements by registering for your free RouterForums.com account today!

Alt Sponsored Links

__________________
This advertisment post is not shown to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member of Router Forums
   
Old 06-14-2009, 08:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
Forum Contributor
 
bobj3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colorado U.S.A.
First Name: Bj
Posts: 14,763
bobj3 has much to be proud ofbobj3 has much to be proud ofbobj3 has much to be proud ofbobj3 has much to be proud of

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

HI rstermer

Speed is the key the norm,,,do you have a small palm router ? if so chuck up the counter sink and use the router like a drill motor..with a light touch.

They make counter sinks types 1 cutter ,2 cutters,3 cutters ,6 cutters, the one that works best in wood/plastic is the 6 cutter type,it takes less of a bite but put in a very fine counter sink hole ,but the router will do a fine job with the standard counter sink because of the speed of the tool spinning at high speed..

Once you have it chuck up use some scrap stock to get the fell of it..


======
Quote:
Originally Posted by rstermer View Post
I'm building a bracket out of oak for a folding workbench I'm making. I tried to countersink a hole in the bracket so a screw would go in flush but the countersink chattered on me and left a really ugly looking countersink. What adjustments do I need to make to get it to come out smooth. Also, in general, when going from softwoods to hardwoods, what changes should one make in tool speed, etc. pretty much everything I've worked on heretofore has been made out of pine.
Thanks for your assistance.

rstermer
__________________
MLCS Instruction Pages & Videos
plus FREE MLCS Project Plans
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../instruct.html

Part Finder
find parts for your power tools

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/
Need some help replacing the parts
http://forums.ereplacementparts.com/

Many Router Tips from RWS
http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html
http://www.routerforums.com/email-ro...-members-only/

Router Tables ,Ready to use
http://www.rt1000.com/
http://rt1000.com/_wsn/page2.html

Bob J.
bobj3 is online now  
Old 06-15-2009, 05:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 253
rstermer is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

Hi Bob- Thanks for your reply. I found a set of 6 flute countersinks on the Grizzly site for not much money.

Just want to make sure I understand the adjustments to make for hardwood. When working hardwoods tool speed should go up, not down? Router on highest speed, drill press at the top of the range for the drill size being used, etc?

Also, will feedrates change a lot?

Thanks for the clarification.
rstermer


Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
HI rstermer

Speed is the key the norm,,,do you have a small palm router ? if so chuck up the counter sink and use the router like a drill motor..with a light touch.

They make counter sinks types 1 cutter ,2 cutters,3 cutters ,6 cutters, the one that works best in wood/plastic is the 6 cutter type,it takes less of a bite but put in a very fine counter sink hole ,but the router will do a fine job with the standard counter sink because of the speed of the tool spinning at high speed..

Once you have it chuck up use some scrap stock to get the fell of it..


======

Last edited by rstermer; 06-15-2009 at 08:31 AM.
rstermer is offline  
Old 06-15-2009, 09:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
HDS
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Staffordshire, England, UK
First Name: Henry
Posts: 50
HDS is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

Hi RStermer,
BobJ is spot on, as a general rule, the harder the material the higher the cutting speed.
That's why your dentists drill sounds like a wailing banshee.
This is why woodsaws have only 6 teeth per inch whilst hacksaw blades for cutting steel have tiny 25-40 tpi.
Router speeds for soft pine should be set to minimum to reduce burn and keep the tool cool, however for a fine finish on hardwoods like Oak, Mahog, etc should be at the upper reaches of your routers speed.
Another deciding factor for tool speed is the physical size of the bit.
Small tools require higher operating speeds and lighter cuts to reduce bit loads.
Larger tools need lower speeds and light cuts will reduce tool stress.

Best regards,
Henry.
HDS is offline  
New Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes