Are the ends on these window stools routed or miter returns?? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Question Are the ends on these window stools routed or miter returns??

Hello, I need to make a window stool and I want the ends, I believe it's call the horn, to look like like these, but I'm not sure how they're made. Are they miter returns or routed ends. If they're routed, can you please tell me how to make them (just the stool not the apron). Thanks!



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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 09:48 PM
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The first one looks like it was routed or done with a shaper.
The second looks like formed solid surface material. Possibly shaped with a shaper or router.
The third appears to be a mitered return.
The first would be easy to accomplish with a large round over bit. Depending on the thickness of the material, you'd want the radius to match.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gene.. that's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure which way to go. I know I can cut the miter and do a return, but the first two look much cleaner. I'm just concerned about my ablility to make that round over. I have a 1/2" and 1/4" round over bits, but is this a hard profile to cut. Can I make it look good by just running in across my router table in both directions or will I have tearout issues?

Thanks Again.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:06 PM
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HI

All make with standard router bits...
the miter and the return all done with one bit and one piece of stock.much stronger than the 45 deg.miter way and much cleaner... just band saw out for the window face frame..

see the bits on MLCS web site.
MLCS router bit and Katana index

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
miter and the return all done with one bit and one piece of stock.much stronger than the 45 deg.miter way and much cleaner
So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:48 PM
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Hi

Most don't want to take the time, a miter, return, and glue is very fast.
Put on the profile cut off part of it and glue back in place with a nail or two..

But it will always look like a fast chop job..

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So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Okay... Thanks Bob!

So, I'll use a round over and do the front and both sides of the window stool. Is there a preference on which side to do first (short side or long front) of the stool? I'm paranoid of making all my cuts and ruining the stool with a bad router job.

Thanks
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 01:21 AM
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Welcome to the RouterForums Rick. Glad to have you join with us.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDel View Post
So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?
Stool & apron is usually a mitered return because you eliminate the end grain especially on stain grade. Your stool should continue back into the window jamb to your window as your pictures show, with the horns notched to protrude past your casing on each side 3/4" to 1". This is usually two pieces the stool & apron. The apron will have mitered returns that should have a finish width that is in line with your outside to outside casing width such as your picture #3.

Even if your apron has no detail such as a plain 1x it should still have a mitered return to eliminate end grain. These cuts are done with a miter saw & the notch for the horns can be done with a table saw, jig saw, or bandsaw (hand saw if that's all you have). If this is for paint grade you can route your stool profile & then notch out your horns. Caulk & paint will hide many sins.

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Last edited by jlord; 07-10-2010 at 02:30 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDel View Post
Thanks Gene.. that's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure which way to go. I know I can cut the miter and do a return, but the first two look much cleaner. I'm just concerned about my ablility to make that round over. I have a 1/2" and 1/4" round over bits, but is this a hard profile to cut. Can I make it look good by just running in across my router table in both directions or will I have tearout issues?

Thanks Again.
Route your end grain first. Then route with the grain & that usually will take care of any tear out you have with the end grain operation.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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