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rh111 · 08-14-2006, 10:43 AM

I have a house that was built in the 50's. It has been decided that the kitchen needs a makeover. I am going to build rail and stile doors with ply insert and redo the drawers. A few questions first, the cabinets are a face frame construction. Does anyone have recommendations on the hinges? What to look for? Brand? Style? Etc... The drawers we want to add slides to. I was thinking either lower side mounted epoxy slides or undermount. What should I be looking for? Brands? Styles? How do you measure slides? Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. I want to make the kitchen better than it currently is, but on the flip side do not want to sink a fortune it as we will probably move in the next couple of years.

**bobj3** · 08-14-2006, 11:35 AM

Hi rh111

I recommend, this type of hinge,(see link below) it's quick and easy to install and you don't see any screws from the front side of the cabinet.
It's true that you need to take care when you cut the pocket hole(s) for the hinge but once you have that down it's duck soup to put them in the doors or to hang the door.
You can buy jigs to cut the pocket hole but most are not cheap and you need a
1 3/8" bit (35mm) but if you have a forrest bit set you have the bit you need, I made a jig to drill the holes if you want to see a snapshot let me know and I will post it,you need to use it on a drill press because the holes need to be dead on and I do mean dead on...
See the link below for the hinges,I just order 50pr. and they do work for both type of cabinets (frames frame and no face frame)

Now when it comes to drawer slides they can put you in the poor house if you don't take care with the price I used one that cost about 2.30 per.pr. (on sale price from time to time),painted white with rollers and they work great,(undermount type)they come in may sizes from 12" to 24" I just got 100pr. (18" and 20" long) 2 weeks ago and I do recommend them, if you need a link let me know and I will post it.

"How do you measure slides?" = the guides will take a 1/2" from ea. side of the drawer or to say cut the drawer 1 1/16" smaller than the opening.

Just a note***when you make the drawers think about using the jig that Oak-Park sells for box joints (3/8" slot type) they will let you make the drawer(s) quick and easy and they are hard to beat.
You can make a drawer in about 10 mins.and they will fit every time unlike the dovetail type.

Cabinet Hinge Face Frame Hinges Hardware 1/2" ov/lay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cabinet-Hinge-Fa...QQcmdZViewItem

rh111 · 08-14-2006, 06:03 PM

If you can post a link to the guides, that would be great. And if it is not asking to much a pic of your drilling jig as well.

When you order slides, is the slide length to be the same as the drawer depth? Or am I missing something? I know that most of the epoxy coated slides that go along the lower outside edge are only 3/4 extension, which is fine by me (if I really want at the back of the drawer, then I can go digging), but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?

**bobj3** · 08-14-2006, 07:47 PM

Hi rn111

Here's a link for the guides plus they sell many other items..

HIGH QUALITY, SELF CLOSING, EPOXY COATED SLIDES ▼

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=938-251

"drawer depth?" = I use a guide that's 2" shorter than the drawer the norm.

"but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?" = Yes, But I don't recommend them because most run down the center of the drawer and only use one runner, comm. cabinet makers use them for speed and because they are real cheap and use a staple to hold the bracket to the back side of the cabinet.
But I should note that the 938-251 guide can use the back bracket if you want to use it but I don't use them.
They recommend that you use them if you use the face frame cabinets but you don't need to if the cabinet is made right from the get go.
BUT you may need to because you are using the same cabinets and just replacing the drawers and doors.
See the same link for the back brackets if I recall they are about 60cents a pair.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...2&LARGEVIEW=ON

You can buy full extensions guides that are not to high in price but just need to take care and not use them for all the drawers.
see the link for some of the prices.

I will take some snapshots of the jig ( hinge pocket hole ) and post them.

Bj

**bobj3** · 08-15-2006, 12:16 AM

Hi rn111

Here are some snapshots of the jig I use when I put in the pockets holes for the hinges.
I also use T-Bolts to hold the jig to the drill press they are quick and easy to switch out jigs on the drill press.
You can get a T-Slot router bit if you want or you can use clamps but the jig must be in the right spot and stay in the right spot on the drill press table.
You also will see a setup block in the snapshots I use it to set the jig up ,once it's set just pop in the frame and clamp it down and drill the holes, I almost aways drill the holes after I have the frame(s) done and I also keep one around just to check the setup b/4 I drill any new holes.

Note the holes on the back side and under side of the hole, they are need for the chips, from the cut and you will have many of them from a 1 3/8" hole 1/2" deep, you will need to stop from time to time and clean them out or they will change the setup.
---------
Note about ** rubber glass retainer
In the snapshots you will see a error in the corners of the frame ,the rubber retainer is not cut right on a 45deg.and it's a bit short from the corner, so I made a jig to fix this type of error.

In the snapshots you will see a door frame with brown rubber around the inside of the frame this type of frame is for a glass door but I had a hard time cutting the 45deg. ends to fit right, I did not fix the one in the snapshot because I wanted to use it to remind me of the error,plus it needs to be a 1/8" longer than the true size.
This rubber retainer fits into a 1/8" x 5/16" deep slot in the frame and it works great to hold the glass in place without any glue or other fastners.plus you can take it out if the glass needs to be replace.

Here's a jig I made to cut the retainer at a true 45deg. cut.see below..
-----------------

Hope this helps a bit.
If you need more info just ask

Bj

rh111 · 08-23-2006, 07:25 PM

Sorry for the late Thank You for the information. It is greatly appreciated. This will get me started in the direction of travel.

**bobj3** · 08-23-2006, 08:10 PM

You're Welcome Berry

Anytime I can help jusk ask

Good Luck with the kitchen makeover

Bj

rh111 · 09-06-2006, 06:39 PM

Hey bobj3, have you purchsed the hinges from the ebay person that you suggested earlier?

**bobj3** · 09-06-2006, 06:54 PM

Yep, sure did and I got 100 of them, they also came with screws .( hinges)

Bj

rh111 · 09-07-2006, 11:15 AM

I take it that you like the quality and use of the product then.

08-14-2006, 10:43 AM	#1
rh111 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 264 View rh111's Gallery	Report This Post! hinges and drawer slides I have a house that was built in the 50's. It has been decided that the kitchen needs a makeover. I am going to build rail and stile doors with ply insert and redo the drawers. A few questions first, the cabinets are a face frame construction. Does anyone have recommendations on the hinges? What to look for? Brand? Style? Etc... The drawers we want to add slides to. I was thinking either lower side mounted epoxy slides or undermount. What should I be looking for? Brands? Styles? How do you measure slides? Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. I want to make the kitchen better than it currently is, but on the flip side do not want to sink a fortune it as we will probably move in the next couple of years. __________________ It's all good till it's no good anymore.
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08-14-2006, 11:35 AM	#2
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi rh111 I recommend, this type of hinge,(see link below) it's quick and easy to install and you don't see any screws from the front side of the cabinet. It's true that you need to take care when you cut the pocket hole(s) for the hinge but once you have that down it's duck soup to put them in the doors or to hang the door. You can buy jigs to cut the pocket hole but most are not cheap and you need a 1 3/8" bit (35mm) but if you have a forrest bit set you have the bit you need, I made a jig to drill the holes if you want to see a snapshot let me know and I will post it,you need to use it on a drill press because the holes need to be dead on and I do mean dead on... See the link below for the hinges,I just order 50pr. and they do work for both type of cabinets (frames frame and no face frame) Now when it comes to drawer slides they can put you in the poor house if you don't take care with the price I used one that cost about 2.30 per.pr. (on sale price from time to time),painted white with rollers and they work great,(undermount type)they come in may sizes from 12" to 24" I just got 100pr. (18" and 20" long) 2 weeks ago and I do recommend them, if you need a link let me know and I will post it. "How do you measure slides?" = the guides will take a 1/2" from ea. side of the drawer or to say cut the drawer 1 1/16" smaller than the opening. Just a note**when you make the drawers think about using the jig that Oak-Park sells for box joints (3/8" slot type) they will let you make the drawer(s) quick and easy and they are hard to beat. You can make a drawer in about 10 mins.and they will fit every time unlike the dovetail type. Cabinet Hinge Face Frame Hinges Hardware 1/2" ov/lay http://cgi.ebay.com/Cabinet-Hinge-Fa...QQcmdZViewItem __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 08-14-2006 at 08:18 PM.*
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08-14-2006, 06:03 PM	#3
rh111 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 264 View rh111's Gallery	Report This Post! If you can post a link to the guides, that would be great. And if it is not asking to much a pic of your drilling jig as well. When you order slides, is the slide length to be the same as the drawer depth? Or am I missing something? I know that most of the epoxy coated slides that go along the lower outside edge are only 3/4 extension, which is fine by me (if I really want at the back of the drawer, then I can go digging), but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well? __________________ It's all good till it's no good anymore.
	Top - Reply with Quote

08-14-2006, 07:47 PM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi rn111 Here's a link for the guides plus they sell many other items.. HIGH QUALITY, SELF CLOSING, EPOXY COATED SLIDES ▼ http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=938-251 "drawer depth?" = I use a guide that's 2" shorter than the drawer the norm. "but is there extensions and brackets to mount the runner to the back of the cabinet as well?" = Yes, But I don't recommend them because most run down the center of the drawer and only use one runner, comm. cabinet makers use them for speed and because they are real cheap and use a staple to hold the bracket to the back side of the cabinet. But I should note that the 938-251 guide can use the back bracket if you want to use it but I don't use them. They recommend that you use them if you use the face frame cabinets but you don't need to if the cabinet is made right from the get go. BUT you may need to because you are using the same cabinets and just replacing the drawers and doors. See the same link for the back brackets if I recall they are about 60cents a pair. http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...2&LARGEVIEW=ON You can buy full extensions guides that are not to high in price but just need to take care and not use them for all the drawers. see the link for some of the prices. I will take some snapshots of the jig ( hinge pocket hole ) and post them. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 08-16-2006 at 12:00 AM.
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08-15-2006, 12:16 AM	#5
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi rn111 Here are some snapshots of the jig I use when I put in the pockets holes for the hinges. I also use T-Bolts to hold the jig to the drill press they are quick and easy to switch out jigs on the drill press. You can get a T-Slot router bit if you want or you can use clamps but the jig must be in the right spot and stay in the right spot on the drill press table. You also will see a setup block in the snapshots I use it to set the jig up ,once it's set just pop in the frame and clamp it down and drill the holes, I almost aways drill the holes after I have the frame(s) done and I also keep one around just to check the setup b/4 I drill any new holes. Note the holes on the back side and under side of the hole, they are need for the chips, from the cut and you will have many of them from a 1 3/8" hole 1/2" deep, you will need to stop from time to time and clean them out or they will change the setup. --------- Note about ** rubber glass retainer In the snapshots you will see a error in the corners of the frame ,the rubber retainer is not cut right on a 45deg.and it's a bit short from the corner, so I made a jig to fix this type of error. In the snapshots you will see a door frame with brown rubber around the inside of the frame this type of frame is for a glass door but I had a hard time cutting the 45deg. ends to fit right, I did not fix the one in the snapshot because I wanted to use it to remind me of the error,plus it needs to be a 1/8" longer than the true size. This rubber retainer fits into a 1/8" x 5/16" deep slot in the frame and it works great to hold the glass in place without any glue or other fastners.plus you can take it out if the glass needs to be replace. Here's a jig I made to cut the retainer at a true 45deg. cut.see below.. ----------------- Hope this helps a bit. If you need more info just ask Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 08-15-2006 at 12:19 PM.
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08-23-2006, 07:25 PM	#6
rh111 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 264 View rh111's Gallery	Report This Post! Sorry for the late Thank You for the information. It is greatly appreciated. This will get me started in the direction of travel. __________________ It's all good till it's no good anymore.
	Top - Reply with Quote

08-23-2006, 08:10 PM	#7
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! You're Welcome Berry Anytime I can help jusk ask Good Luck with the kitchen makeover Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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09-06-2006, 06:39 PM	#8
rh111 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 264 View rh111's Gallery	Report This Post! Hey bobj3, have you purchsed the hinges from the ebay person that you suggested earlier? __________________ It's all good till it's no good anymore.
	Top - Reply with Quote

09-06-2006, 06:54 PM	#9
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Yep, sure did and I got 100 of them, they also came with screws .( hinges) Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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09-07-2006, 11:15 AM	#10
rh111 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Kansas Posts: 264 View rh111's Gallery	Report This Post! I take it that you like the quality and use of the product then. __________________ It's all good till it's no good anymore.
	Top - Reply with Quote

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