ARTEDNA

I am making kitchen cabinets for the LOML and forgot that I will have to make drawers-do not have a dovetail jig!-now that I have opened my big mouth and told the LOML -I CAN DO THAT- I need some help-Leigh-Porter cable-or one of someones copy-or is there another way that does not involve piles of money?

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Glenmore

Welcome to the forum Artedna. I bought my dove tail jig from Habor Freight the same one that you can buy from grizzly. It works well and paid 30.00 plus the shipping that was on sale. It normally sells for about 40. Just one thing though mine didn't come with directions so you'll have to do some research on setting it up.

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Glenmore

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Bob

Hi Artedna and welcome to Router Forums.

If you decide on a PC4212 which is a great jig, send me a private message. I have one that I may be willing to sell at a good deal.

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bobj3

Hi Artedna

You don't need a dovetail jig, see the URL's below
But If Bob has one for sale it maybe the right time to get one
When the door opens you need to check it out.

http://www.routerworkshop.com/drlockjt.html

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

http://www.routerworkshop.com/gluejoint.html

Just a note***the last URL it's a real hard one to setup on the router table you can make a lot of firewood b/4 you get it right.

Also take a look at a router bit box you have,(the one they came in ) you can use the same joint for a drawer and it's easy one to setup on the router table.

Bj

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RustyW

ARTEDNA, I also was recently in the market for a dovetail jig. I had been searching all the online retailers when I realized my local Lowes stocked the PC 4210. Since I was carrying a left over birthday gift card that would cover about half the cost,I grabbed one. And I'm sure glad I did.

The instructions for the PC are kind of redundant but read them and then start making dovetails. You will find it allmost idiot proof. There is a depth gauge on the end for setting up the bit,a groove on top for lining up the template,and a guide on the side for matching up the 2 pieces of wood.

Before I found this I was about to buy the $30 harbor frieght jig (also have a local HF store). But the instructions both in the box and online were very unclear. I probably would have got frustrated and never used it. Also the PC comes with the neccessary bit and template guide, the HF does not.

The PC 4210 comes with only 1 template for making half-blind dovetails. The 4212 that BOBN is offering comes with 2 more, 1 for thru dovetails, and 1 for box joints. Hope this helps.

Rusty

Mike

Good advice from everyone about the various dovetail jigs. Here is my take on your situation: You are building kitchen cabinets, not furniture. You can save a lot of time and money by simply buying a drawer lock router bit. In a matter of minutes you will be turning our strong joints, much easier to learn than the quirks of any dovetail jig. This creates a strong joint and with todays glues it should last for many years. These bits are available from many sources such as MLCS, Rockler, or Woodcraft. Another option is to go with a box joint jig. The Router Workshop jig produces perfect joints on your first try. It has the added advantage of being used to make boxes, even wooden hinges and dovetails in 3/8" material.(This is not recommended for kitchen drawers)

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Mike

kp91

Theres another option, there are a lot of companies that will MAKE custom drawer boxes for you, you just add the front. It sounds like a lot of bucks, but if you think about it, you aren't buying the wood, the jig, or screwing up a couple of drawers on your first try, so the cost per drawer is reasonable.

I've used dovetails, box joints, pocket holes, and knock down hardware on drawers, and had good results with all. sometime simpler is better, a locking rabbet joint, sliding dovetail, can give you great results as well.

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Doug
1 John 1:9