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chadmiha · 03-31-2007, 04:12 AM

Thanks bj, I'll give it a try on Sunday. Thanks again for the support.
Chad

chadmiha · 04-02-2007, 04:59 AM

Okay, here's round 2. I'm happy with the outcome, but I know that there's still a lot of room for improvment. Still need to sand a bit, but here they are. These pics are with the top and bottom rings glued together. The top ring got rounded over, the bottom one did not. Any input is welcomed.

With speaker in:

**Mike** · 04-02-2007, 07:09 AM

If you glue your pieces together before routing your glue line will virtually disappear. You should end up with a nice smooth surface. I still suggest plunging in steps of less than 1/2", make a pass, plunge etc.

**bobj3** · 04-02-2007, 11:48 AM

Hi Chad

Here's a trick my son (who works for Car-Toys) will use all the time to get a nice clean part ,auto body filler (Bond-Do) it will fill the cracks and make the part strong so it can be painted or covered with vinyl, little heat from a gun and the vinyl will fit like a sock.

If you put a nice light coat on and use a flush trim bit or light sanding it will come out clean, nice to the touch.

NOTE*** You did a nice job and it's going to look great

Bj

Joe Lyddon · 04-02-2007, 01:45 PM

Hi Chad,

I think you're doing great!! I like the Bondo Tip (cool)...

I have to ask you a 'stupid' question...
When I was into HiFi / Stereo audio many years ago, all I (we)
did was drill some holes around a hole in a plywood panel and
mount the speaker then covered with a plastic fabric, etc.

Now, I hear a new term and see some New pictures...

How are these 'speaker rings' really used? Do you screw the
spkrs to the ring then mount the ring to cabinet?

Thank you...

**bobj3** · 04-02-2007, 03:14 PM

Hi Joe

Just a bud in, most of the time this type of speaker is mounted to a panel the norm,it can be a door panel,side rear panel,rear window panel,outside of the speaker box,etc. but they now do many neat things with speakers now days, my son makes speaker boxes that are so neat and cost 300.oo to 3,000.oo or more it's Big money now days,he just got done with one that went for $17,000.oo in a HUMMMMER

and took 3 weeks to get it done.

Talking about speakers, he did one that would blow your ears out if it was all the way up, it would move the glass in and out on the doors , MAN

the doors had concrete in behind the door panels so they would not move/flex

in my day they called alot of cars lead sleds now they call them concrete blocks. LOL

Bj

**Mike** · 04-03-2007, 12:55 AM

Joe, some added information that might be of use: High frequencies are very directional. This is why most new surround sound systems use the small speakers aimed at the listening area from different angles. Low's are multi-directional. One sub woofer will radiate the deep base in all areas. Mid range speakers fall in between and sound "fuller" the closer they are to a wall and towards the corners, as a rule. And like with any other rule there are exceptions caused by speaker design. Ohm Walsh 2 speakers use a driver mounted facing down with a base port on the bottom of the cabinet and a tweeter that fires off one corner of the cabinet. This allows for the imaging to sound right. You get the feeling you are inside the band.

chadmiha · 04-03-2007, 04:13 AM

Hey thanks for all the input guys. And Joe, BJ was right these are going to be door pods when they're done. The rings will act as the skeleton for the fiberglass that will cover them. The bottom ring is for the speaker to mount to and the top ring will ensure that the speaker sits flush instead of sticking out past the pod. I needed to round over the ring to "soften" the edges a bit. I know that most of the projects on here aren't hidden with fiberglass, but the importance of a good base is crucial to have a good outcome. I'd love to post pics of the end project, but am not sure if it's okay on the forum.(Since it's fiberglass and not wood.) I'm sure a mod will let me know. I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me get through my first router project. I realy couldn't have done it without you guys.
Chad

**bobj3** · 04-03-2007, 10:39 AM

You'er Welcome Chad for my small input

To round over the InSide of the ring, you must take care at this point, the MDF will snap like a twig (chip out) ,I recommend you make a sanding block, that just fits the inside of the ring with the round over you want then glue on some sanding paper to it and start sanding light with some 180 paper.

The cut out part of cir. would work good for the job, just cut into 4 parts,screw on a 2 x 4 block so you can hold on to it and glue 2 of the parts as one (step block) this will keep a nice clean edge on the ring.
Besure to put your round over edge on one of the parts b/4 you glue up the step sanding block

One more tip Chad ,don't try and screw into the MDF, if you are going to mount them to panel from the back side, drill a 1/2" hole and glue in some wood dowels and predrill and screw into them , MDF likes to pull out easy but the plugs will help hold it when you crank it up, the brass or steel threaded inserts don't hold well in MDF also.

Bj

03-31-2007, 04:12 AM	#21
chadmiha Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 11 View chadmiha's Gallery	Report This Post! Thanks bj, I'll give it a try on Sunday. Thanks again for the support. Chad
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04-02-2007, 04:59 AM	#22
chadmiha Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 11 View chadmiha's Gallery	Report This Post! Okay, here's round 2. I'm happy with the outcome, but I know that there's still a lot of room for improvment. Still need to sand a bit, but here they are. These pics are with the top and bottom rings glued together. The top ring got rounded over, the bottom one did not. Any input is welcomed. With speaker in:
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-02-2007, 07:09 AM	#23
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,380 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! If you glue your pieces together before routing your glue line will virtually disappear. You should end up with a nice smooth surface. I still suggest plunging in steps of less than 1/2", make a pass, plunge etc. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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04-02-2007, 11:48 AM	#24
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Chad Here's a trick my son (who works for Car-Toys) will use all the time to get a nice clean part ,auto body filler (Bond-Do) it will fill the cracks and make the part strong so it can be painted or covered with vinyl, little heat from a gun and the vinyl will fit like a sock. If you put a nice light coat on and use a flush trim bit or light sanding it will come out clean, nice to the touch. NOTE*** You did a nice job and it's going to look great Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-02-2007 at 11:52 AM.
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04-02-2007, 01:45 PM	#25
Joe Lyddon Banned Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alta Loma, CA USA Posts: 2,168 View Joe Lyddon's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Chad, I think you're doing great!! I like the Bondo Tip (cool)... I have to ask you a 'stupid' question... When I was into HiFi / Stereo audio many years ago, all I (we) did was drill some holes around a hole in a plywood panel and mount the speaker then covered with a plastic fabric, etc. Now, I hear a new term and see some New pictures... How are these 'speaker rings' really used? Do you screw the spkrs to the ring then mount the ring to cabinet? Thank you...
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-02-2007, 03:14 PM	#26
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Joe Just a bud in, most of the time this type of speaker is mounted to a panel the norm,it can be a door panel,side rear panel,rear window panel,outside of the speaker box,etc. but they now do many neat things with speakers now days, my son makes speaker boxes that are so neat and cost 300.oo to 3,000.oo or more it's Big money now days,he just got done with one that went for $17,000.oo in a HUMMMMER and took 3 weeks to get it done. Talking about speakers, he did one that would blow your ears out if it was all the way up, it would move the glass in and out on the doors , MAN the doors had concrete in behind the door panels so they would not move/flex in my day they called alot of cars lead sleds now they call them concrete blocks. LOL Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-03-2007 at 11:34 AM.
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04-03-2007, 12:55 AM	#27
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,380 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Joe, some added information that might be of use: High frequencies are very directional. This is why most new surround sound systems use the small speakers aimed at the listening area from different angles. Low's are multi-directional. One sub woofer will radiate the deep base in all areas. Mid range speakers fall in between and sound "fuller" the closer they are to a wall and towards the corners, as a rule. And like with any other rule there are exceptions caused by speaker design. Ohm Walsh 2 speakers use a driver mounted facing down with a base port on the bottom of the cabinet and a tweeter that fires off one corner of the cabinet. This allows for the imaging to sound right. You get the feeling you are inside the band. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-03-2007, 04:13 AM	#28
chadmiha Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 11 View chadmiha's Gallery	Report This Post! Hey thanks for all the input guys. And Joe, BJ was right these are going to be door pods when they're done. The rings will act as the skeleton for the fiberglass that will cover them. The bottom ring is for the speaker to mount to and the top ring will ensure that the speaker sits flush instead of sticking out past the pod. I needed to round over the ring to "soften" the edges a bit. I know that most of the projects on here aren't hidden with fiberglass, but the importance of a good base is crucial to have a good outcome. I'd love to post pics of the end project, but am not sure if it's okay on the forum.(Since it's fiberglass and not wood.) I'm sure a mod will let me know. I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me get through my first router project. I realy couldn't have done it without you guys. Chad
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-03-2007, 10:39 AM	#29
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,300 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! You'er Welcome Chad for my small input To round over the InSide of the ring, you must take care at this point, the MDF will snap like a twig (chip out) ,I recommend you make a sanding block, that just fits the inside of the ring with the round over you want then glue on some sanding paper to it and start sanding light with some 180 paper. The cut out part of cir. would work good for the job, just cut into 4 parts,screw on a 2 x 4 block so you can hold on to it and glue 2 of the parts as one (step block) this will keep a nice clean edge on the ring. Besure to put your round over edge on one of the parts b/4 you glue up the step sanding block One more tip Chad ,don't try and screw into the MDF, if you are going to mount them to panel from the back side, drill a 1/2" hole and glue in some wood dowels and predrill and screw into them , MDF likes to pull out easy but the plugs will help hold it when you crank it up, the brass or steel threaded inserts don't hold well in MDF also. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-03-2007 at 11:47 AM.
	Top - Reply with Quote

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