webbill

Hi Nzgeordie:

Good question and to show you how lost I am to all this I finally went out and bought out all the the stuff, router, with a plung base, router table and the bit set that said it had three straight bits and three others. I called Lowes and was told that the three straight bits were !/8 1/4, and 1/2, but when I got it the straight bits were 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2. I have 1/8" plexiglass. It will be tuesday afternoon or Wednesday before I can try it all out.

Also the bit with the regular base stuck out to high (too deep) when mounted to the router table so I put on the pluner base and set the bit more shallow and mounted it on the router table. Will that be okay?

I am just wondering with a 1/4 inch bit it my slot for the plexiglass will be too loose, I dont have time to order by mail a 1/8 bit and the Lowes stores around here arent carrrying it. After all this for now I might just start edges with a hack saw and finish it out with a small chiesel.

Got any ideas? Is it okay to mount the plunger base on the table?

Thanks,

Bill

Advertising

nzgeordie

Hi Bill. I can't comment on why your fixed base router should be setting the bit too high as we don't have (many) fixed base routers downunder.
I use a plunge (Triton) in my table so if your plunge is giving you the right bit height then use it. You might want to remove the springs to make life easier in the table.
It's got to be your call on whether to cut the slot for the plexiglass by hand or wait for the right bit - I know which I'd do as the router gives such clean precise cuts!
As to whether to buy a bit starter kit or buy individually - I don't think there's anything wrong with a basic (say) 10 piece kit to get you started and let you play around to see how it all works. But I doubt I'd go for one of the bigger kits as I'm sure I'd end up with bits I'd never use (just my two penn'orth). You'd probably get an adequate roundover bit in a kit for what you want. I prefer a 1/4" radius piloted roundover (the bearing can be removed) for rounding off edges as you say you want to do.
Hope this is of use.

__________________
Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

harrysin

All of the above advice is just fine Bill, but just to add my two cents worth. I started with a "starter" kit and when I found a cutter that I used on a regular basis I purchased a quality one to replace it. In the router table a roundover bit with or without bearing is OK but for the groove you do need a 1/8" bit. A small cutter can make a wide groove by multiple passes, moving the fence each time, but a wide cutter can't cut a small groove.
Of course if you have a rise and fall saw table and the kerf happens to be close to 1/8" then the problem is solved. I hope that you derive the same pleasure from woodworking, particularly routing as I have for more than half a century.

__________________
Harry

Roefa

YIKES !!! Bill, one thing I completely overlooked is that you are cutting Plexigas (R) !
I have machined that stuff in various ways in years past and it can be easy or treacherous, depending upon the type, shape, tool speed, feed, etc. etc.. It can gum up in your tool and make a real mess of your work if everything is not just right. Often it cracks, splits, chips, melts and shatters. On the other hand, some cuts go so nicely it's overwhelming. My whole point in adding all of these cautions... Practice the cut on scrap until you are sure of it !!! Good luck !
Roger
(Roefa)

__________________
Thinking outside the box? What box?

webbill

Thanks for the reply Nzgeordie:

Well first I will see if the 1/4" will be too large, it might work. The problem is I am down to the wire and there is no places locally that sells a 1/8" straight bit, and if I mail order one I wont get it in time. I got the six bit set that is listed in an earlier post on this thread. So I have a round over for the edges. I dont want to round over the plexiglass grove.

Taking out the springs is news to me, I didnt think I could but it would make it easier to adjust. All this is so new to me I wasnt sure if I should mount the plunger base. But it seemed to work. I am so ignorant to this when I bought the table I didnt even realize that the router mounted to the base. I just thought there would be guides to help me control it on the top. duh!

I tried to read about all this to know something before I bought stuff and started doing it but I am a the point of thinking the only way to learn really is just to get it out and start seeing what it will do to some scrape wood.

Drugstore Cowboy

You have learned well, pilgrim.
No matter what someone tells you -- or draws out for you - or even shows you-
You will never know what works best for you - until you do it.

As for your need to get those grooves cut quick ---
As you mentioned early on -
- that is the thickness of a typical circular saw/table saw kerf.
If you have access to a table saw (if you already said you didn't and I missed it -- sorry) I would vote for just setting the cut depth and the rip fence -
You could do it with a circular saw -- but not as easy.

On the 1/4" bit idea --
If your plexiglass is truly 1/8" -- and you cut a 1/4" slot --
Obviously thats going to leave you 1/16" on each side to fill with glazing or caulk etc. NOT a problem if you are planning to paint the frame.
If you are planning to stain it --- maybe something to think twice about.

__________________
The one who says it can't be done --
Should avoid interrupting
the person doing it.

webbill

Thanks DrugStoreCowboy, and everyone:

I am putting the plexiglass in between two pieces of wood as a see through wall on a bird feeder. If the 1/4" slot that the plexiglass slides into lets there be too much give or wiggle room I can add a little trim piece to tighten it up.

I wont be using a router to cut the plexiglass, I'll use a jigsaw. I dont have a table saw, just a skillsaw and it would be hard to get it straight enough and the right width too besides I want to learn to use the router to other things eventually.

Thanks for all your help, it has helped.

Bill

nzgeordie

Right on, Bill! The way to learn is to jump in "boots and all" as we say down here. But - BE SAFE!
Harry's advice is good. A starter kit will let you see which bits you use most often - then buy better bits. They'll give a superior finish and have a longer life.
Did you say what models of router you have? If you tell us, someone on the forum should be able to tell you how to mount your fixed base in the table to get the right bit height and/or how to remove the springs from your plunge.
The table saw sounds like a good solution for the slot but I can't understand that you can't get the right bit within a couple of days from somewhere like MLCS in the mail (you are in the US/Canada - aren't you?). I buy from them and it only takes about 10 days to get to me down here at the bottom of the world
Anyway, enjoy the experience and post us some pics of the finished work.

__________________
Pete
I've cut it twice and it's still too short! But only at one end.

webbill

PS - I was asked what I bought. Here are the links to

The table;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...450&lpage=none

The router;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...825&lpage=none

The bits;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...006&lpage=none

Any advice comments will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

Drugstore Cowboy

You are dead right about cutting a groove like you need with the circular saw.
It CAN be done -- I've done it - before I got my table saw -- but setting up to do it well -- is a PAIN.

You are also VERY right about the versatility of the router. You will be amazed at what all you can get it to do.

You mentioned using a trim piece - so here is another idea just to add to your collection. I stole it from the bathroom cabinets in my 1920s bungalow -
Instead of cutting a groove --- lay your stock down and route out a rabbet like for a picture frame (do this after you do your roundover).
The cut a trim piece to fit around the 'back' side of the glass.

Don't know if this fits your specific project or not -- but it is another way to use the router to do a panel insert.

Whatever you do -- HAVE FUN doing it -- life is too short not to.

__________________
The one who says it can't be done --
Should avoid interrupting
the person doing it.