cheap/simple box-joint jig?

[Shadrac]

OK..I know zero about dovetail/boxjoint jigs.

What I DO know is that I can't buy $$$ worth of equipment.

Is there any reason why one couldn't use just a template(for boxjoints in my case), clamp it at the end of the board to be routed...and rout out the slots/pins?

I guess Im just confused as to why you would need these $$$ jigs when a fastened template would seem to accomplish the same thing...minus the space adustability...which I do not need. I just need even spaced boxjoint slots/pins...in the 1/4" to 1/2" range.

Also,,,I'm not sure about 'bearings' as opposed to 'bushings'. Do 'bushings' attach to the router base ...non-moving...while 'bearings' are found on the bit itself?

Do bushings come with routers generally speaking...and how do I know what size bushing or bearing-bit to use with a given template(assuming that I can rig it to work without a jig)?

I was told that THIS was the place to post these naive type questions...so please bear with me. I need to be set straight on this

[Mike]

And you were told right. A guide bushing can be made from plastic, brass, aluminum or steel. It attaches to the bottom of your router or to a mounting plate if the router is in a table. The size of the bushing determines the offset: all this means is how far away from the template. 1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset. How to select the proper bit and bushing combination is explained in several posts under guide bushings and templates so I wont repeat it here. Most routers do not come with guide bushings but they are readily available in stores. A bearing is just that, a roller bearing mounted on the router bit, either above or below the cutter depending on the application. Bearings that are end mounted are often removeable so you can get additional uses from the same bit. There are also bearings that slide onto the bit shaft and are held in place with a collar. Most are round, some are square and they all work. Again you can read about the differences elsewhere in the forums.
There is no need for an expensive guide for box joints. The Oak Park box joint jigs are super simple and get great results. They are made from quality HDPE which lets the wood slide like a dream. They also have about the fastest set up of any brand on the market and cost just over $20. You can make your own but this is money well spent.

[Dr.Zook]

Hello Shad, and welcome to the Router Forums. For $59.95 +SH you can get the set of three box joint jigs from Oak-Park. They include the 1/4", 3/8", and the 1/2" fence for making box joints and can be used for sliding dovetails. If you're not in a hurry, Oak-Park will put the on sale from time to time. These jigs make it the easiest to make boxjoints.

[Shadrac]

OK,,thank you mike and DrZook...

The jig looks interesting...kinda the same principle as the basic 'key' type tablesaw jig., but I don't have a router table. I was looking into getting a box joint template(not an entire jig assembly), and attaching it at the ends of my pieces to do the slots.

I'd build a table for my router(still in the shopping mode), but I don't have the time/resources for that yet...unless...the table could be very, very simple...easy enough for me to build in a day, without a lot of fancy parts. If it could be just a basic box with the router attached underneath...no fence, no miter slots, then I'd truly consider the OakPark setup.

Again, right now I ONLY need to do box joints. I tried to see how the OakPark system works..but the video demo was down...and I didnt want to purchase a 'demo' video only to see if I wanted to buy the jig. If I did have one, I'd have to admit that the OakPark jig looks rather ideal for what I'd need it to do.

Now, I saw various brand metal box-joint templates in the $15-$40 range and
wanted to see how feasible it was to rig the template to my workpieces without having to purchase a whole jig assembly. Can this be done?

[Hamlin]

You can easily create your very own template from scrap wood. You would only need to "route" out the slot and create the pin for spacing.

[Mike]

You can mount a router to a piece of plywood very easily. Remove the sub base plate and transfer the holes onto the plywood, drill them out and with some longer screws attach your router. This should take less than an hour. Flip the board over and clamp it to a pair of sawhorses and you have a simple, easy to store router table. You could also build a simple box and clamp it on a bench. Some people use old cabinets or even a desk to install their routers in. Whatever works for you. The Oak Park box joint jig requires you to drill two holes in your table for mounting. They can be at any angle on the table top as long as the router bit, and space between it and the guide strip are the same size. The holes are drilled in all three guides so that if one fits, they all fit with these same two screws. There is no simpler method, and the UDPE lets the wood slide like silk. You use a wooden backer board, stand your piece on end and run it across the bit. Now set the slot you just cut on the guide strip and repeat till all your cuts are made. Perfect every time.

[Shadrac]

Thank you Mike(and hamlin)...

That sounds fairly achievable. Now,,I'm totally going to trust you regarding the ease/accuracy of the OakPark jig. I suppose in a worst case its still a LOT cheaper than a template/jig combo.

OK, now that that is out of the way...do you suppose I could solicit just a bit more advice regarding the exact type of bit that I will need?

I am looking to do '1/4" slots/pins', and the actual thickness will be 3/4" hard wood( probably African Mahogany).

And lastly, could you maybe point me in the right direction regarding a router?

I will have only about $100 for both router and bit. I didnt know whether to look for a plunge feature or not(Im not totally sure what the 'plunge' ability is for other than making it easier on the router by doing multiple passes)...or what 'brand' in that low of a price range...also, I wont need to buy a bushing for the router when using the OakPark jig, will I?

I know my options are limited in that price range...the Craftsmans' seem to have mixed reviews at their website...and I saw a couple 'Skil' models, a 'Black and Decker' and even something called a 'Firestorm' at the Lowes website...any ideas?

Thanks again Mike for the details about the table...very useful info.

I dont sense much snobbery at this forum...and that's fresh air to me.

[bobj3]

Hi Shadrac

Here's a cheap/simple box-joint jig you can make in about 30 mins.
You can also make one for the dovetail joints if you want with a dovetail key insert or just use a 3/8" wide slot key.

All it takes is a 3/4" brass guide in the router table or in your router base plate..

I made one along time ago and they work great...

I did rework the one I made into to a push block for the Oak-Park box jigs..if you take a look at that one you will see part of the 3/4" wide slot in the base plate on the jig..

OR
This one if you want to go the extra step..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ush-block.html

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Originally Posted by Shadrac

OK..I know zero about dovetail/boxjoint jigs.

What I DO know is that I can't buy $$$ worth of equipment.

Is there any reason why one couldn't use just a template(for boxjoints in my case), clamp it at the end of the board to be routed...and rout out the slots/pins?

I guess Im just confused as to why you would need these $$$ jigs when a fastened template would seem to accomplish the same thing...minus the space adustability...which I do not need. I just need even spaced boxjoint slots/pins...in the 1/4" to 1/2" range.

Also,,,I'm not sure about 'bearings' as opposed to 'bushings'. Do 'bushings' attach to the router base ...non-moving...while 'bearings' are found on the bit itself?

Do bushings come with routers generally speaking...and how do I know what size bushing or bearing-bit to use with a given template(assuming that I can rig it to work without a jig)?

I was told that THIS was the place to post these naive type questions...so please bear with me. I need to be set straight on this

[harrysin]

"1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!?????

[bobj3]

Hi Harry

I did go back and added a view,, the brass guide/bushing just keeps it true, guide not in play so to speak,,,the backer board and the key move from side to side to setup the slot size and spacing... it works best with a 3/8" key so it can be used to put in dovetails as well with one jig...just a drop on and slot jig.

You will see this type of jig used on the table saws but the router table mades it easy and true every time...with just a pass or two...the offset is setup by the key and a small spacer right next to the bit but it works better to cut the stock a bit wider than it needs to be and then rip the stock to size....

Screw Slot bits

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...Site/0018.html


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Originally Posted by harrysin

"1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!?????