Idea for a router table top!

kz202r

Hi all, I was recently searching for a used drafting table at an office supply store and while rumaging through their warehouse I happened across a stack of used office table tops 1 inch plus in thickness. I wondered how many have tried to make a router table and or workbenches from one of these. Just thought I would pass this on just in case anyone was looking. The stuff was goin cheap.

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AxlMyk

I know a couple guys that did that. Pretty stiff stuff.

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dutchman 46

DSCF0042.jpg

DSCF0045.jpgHere is something simular, I got a top that was used in a shop, the surface was so thick, that i cut it with a die grinder!

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seawolf21

KZ my top is made from a 1 1/4 piece of office table top. It has a gray colored melamine coating on top. I had to cut slots in it with a 3/4 straight bit to mount the T-tracks and cut a opening for my router which bolts on from the bottom. This table top takes a beating and will last forever.

Gary



http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/4291d1169917982-homemade-split-router-fence-view-shim.jpg

dutchman 46

Hello Gary, How did the router bit hold out, My top was over 1/16 1n. thick.You can see that a chisel was used to strip the top for router plate.

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seawolf21

The 3/4 router bit was a little burned because I had to go through a 1/16th melamine top coating, but I have other extra bits.
Gary

Kenman101

How thick is it? It should be at least 1 1/4" thick to allow you to be able to add some accessories like a miter track or fence track. Most of those tracs are 1/2" high, and if you rout that out of the stock, it weakens the top.

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seawolf21

The top is 1 1/4 thick and 22X30". With the tracks in I still have 5/8ths thickness. I routed out the bottom to fit Porter Cable or Craftsman routers without the bases. Works for me!

Gary

xplorx4

All of my tops I acquired when I was a project manager for a casework supplier. Most are at least 1 1/8" thick. The substrate is particle board, but not like the particle board you would get at HD and the like. (These are resistant to water and do not blow up if left in water even for 24 hrs.) The tops are HGL (horizontal grade laminate) vs. VGL (vertical grade laminate) the difference being the thickness of the laminate. You can check that out a Wilson Art, Nevamar or Formic to list a couple. The HGL is about twice as thick as the VGL and holds up better to abuse, but is harder to work with. I would think, unless specified otherwise most laminate in office furniture or at the box stores would not be HGL it just cost more and would cut into the gross profit dollars too much.

The tops I have are HGL because they came off a laboratory specified job, I think they are Chemsurf also (chemical resistant laminate). For me this was just the luck of the draw to come on these left over from a Lab job I did.

I say all that to say I would gladly trade these off for some good maple or oak butcher block tops I just think they would will hold up much better to the pounding plus they can be refinished, nice. As soon as I can I will replace any and all of mine with wood tops.

The other thing is to make sure the tops have a backer material, it could be laminate or more likely melamine. Just a thought.

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