Please comment on my table design

dustmaker

I just completed my first drawing with SketchUp for my new router table design. I would appreciate any and all critiques and/or recommendations. I will be using a 24" IncraJig and that is why I am using a wider table top, plus it gives me more storage in the cabinets Forgot to dimension the insert plate, but the bit is about 13" from the left side.
Somethings I have wondered about:
1) I see a lot of table designs where the laminate is cut flush to the MDF, and then the hardwood edging applied to this. Here I am applying the hardwood first, then laying the laminate on top (so flush with and covering the hardwood). Are there issues with going this way?
2) I plan to put heavy duty locking casters on all four corners, so the center will not be support, so to say. Do you think there will be any issues with sagging? If so, what do you recommend as a solution?
Anything else you see that could be improved?
Thanks in advance.

Attached Images

	RouterTable_OverallDim.jpg (219.5 KB, 123 views)
	RouterTable_TopExploded.jpg (278.3 KB, 107 views)
	RouterTable_Carcass.jpg (404.0 KB, 85 views)
	RouterTable_InsertCutout.jpg (312.3 KB, 83 views)

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An application of innovation and creativity,
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levon

hi Frank,

you did a great job on the sketchup. if this is what you want build it. no 2 of us would build the same thing and i would build it a little different than you have shown. but that is a personal preference. i personally think it would be easier to cut the laminate flush then add your edging, but thats just a personal preference.

good job!

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levon

dustmaker

Thanks levon. I always say, if you get 10 engineers in a room you will get at least a dozen designs I have thoroughly enjoyed SketchUp and plan to use it quite a bit. In my younger days I used to do this on a big table with a T-square and a lot of patience...much easier nowadays.
On the issue of the lamination I am also wondering if there isn't another benefit to the hardwood edging covering the laminate...it would protect it from lifting if the edge is "grabbed" by a tool or piece of wood or something. I just noticed more folks doing it that way, and just thought I would ask...always willing to learn, you know?

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And an opportunity at self improvement.

xplorx4

Looks good to me. Mine is 34" X 46" or something like that, the reason is I had a top that was 1 1/4" thick laminated both sides. I also had two wood cabinets that were 24" wide and 15" deep so I put them back to back to make up the table. I have over hang on each end of about 11" on average. I favored one end and located the router outside the cabinets. I made the top this big so I could have a run out table for my TS. It all works for me for now, but will be changed sometime in the future, after I figure out what I want to do with all this.

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dustmaker

Jerry, a very ingenious use of space and using what you have. I should have pointed out too, the reason I am putting casters on is that I am sharing a two car garage with my lovely wife, so I am space challenged, so to say. I can wheel the table around behind the TS for runout as well and with the casters on it should bring it up to just about the right height for this. I also plan to use the top for assembly work...one advantage to sharing a garage is that I can vacate some space in a hurry (just back the car out!); wheel the table to the open space and get to work...easy peasy.

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Woodworking is more than a hobby.
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And an opportunity at self improvement.

bobj3

Hi Frank

" Anything else you see that could be improved "

I see many errors but just one or two below ( P.B. is the the stock you want to use..)

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Attached Images

cabinet.jpg (94.3 KB, 80 views)

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Bob J.

dustmaker

Hi Bob,

Thanks for going to the trouble. I've built about a half dozen cabinets or so, I should have remembered the 1x2 supports!

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- Frank
Woodworking is more than a hobby.
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And an opportunity at self improvement.

allthunbs

I don't see any errors. I see differences of opinion. I'm 5'10" tall and I like my table at 36" high but then, I don't know how tall you are, how long your arms are, and the kind of work you'll be wanting to do. My tables are 24" x 48" but I'm doing kitchens, bathrooms, cabinets, doors and windows and production framing for stained glass, not to mention a workshop and, I use the Oak Park/Router Workshop philosophy so I use 26" and 52" fences. I also use skis and foots and working on building a duplicator and shiis. For those, I'll be using a 36"x48" table for each. Oh, I forgot to mention that when we've finished this house, the whole workshop has to be moved again.

I don't like closing my routers in. But then, you're maybe using a heavy vacuum to clear the router space that will effectively cool the router as well as collect dust. I don't like router lifts, fixed fences, "T" tracks and I have a hard time justifying buying stuff when I can make it. That's half the fun of working with routers. You can make most of what you need.

I have a relatively complete shop so I'm not forcing machines to do double duty. I've gone through many versions of tables and some I keep resurrecting and reusing. You might consider that over time you'll make a variety of tables and you should consider their being inventoried as opposed to replaced over time. BTW, you'll also collect routers.

I hope this helps.

Allthunbs

dutchman 46

Hello Frank!
That is a nice set-up. I like all the shelves that you have in yours. You cannot have enough storage space.

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Vestus

As I'm also short on garage space, so I sized my table height to fit under my work bench and table saw wing. It requires moving the fence, but I can at least get it out of the way.
With your center divider, you should have no problems with sagging.

As for laminate, I prefer mine to cover the banding and chamfer afterward. The last thing I need is any seams catching my work. I'd skip the laminate on the bottom and just give it a coat of poly.

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