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23 ga Pinning into MDF edges?

This is a discussion on 23 ga Pinning into MDF edges? within the Table-mounted Routing forums, part of the Routers category; Thanks Rusty now I need to get one more for a backup , for that ...



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Old 06-24-2009, 08:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks Rusty

now I need to get one more for a backup , for that price I can't pass it up..

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Old 06-25-2009, 01:49 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Those look like good deals but alas, I stopped on my way home and picked up a PC PIN100.

As for stopping by HF to pick one up, I suspect the airline ticket from Anchorage would make that one miiiiiighty pricey pinner. Though when I *do* travel, its definitely time to shop.

It's kinda nice that Alaska doesn't have any sales tax. When I travel I can stop into the store and get things and as long as they ship it back home (I can't take it with me), the savings on sales tax defers shipping costs. It also helps in that you don't need to travel with an empty suitcase!

Now, if my TS would just arrive.....

Jim
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Old 06-25-2009, 03:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I recently made a very large shelf unit, using five sheets of mdf, I screwed end grain every time, only I used drill point screws, the sort used for partitions, no splitting at all.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'll keep you in my prayers Derek.
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The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


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Old 06-25-2009, 07:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Why Harry? Don't you believe it works then?
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJimAK View Post
Those look like good deals but alas, I stopped on my way home and picked up a PC PIN100.

As for stopping by HF to pick one up, I suspect the airline ticket from Anchorage would make that one miiiiiighty pricey pinner. Though when I *do* travel, its definitely time to shop.

It's kinda nice that Alaska doesn't have any sales tax. When I travel I can stop into the store and get things and as long as they ship it back home (I can't take it with me), the savings on sales tax defers shipping costs. It also helps in that you don't need to travel with an empty suitcase!

Now, if my TS would just arrive.....

Jim
Yeah, where is that saw....just kidding, Jim, I bet you are like a kid the night before Christmas. I know I would be.
I've had a few of these air/brad nailers and if the smaller pin nailers are like their bigger brothers, it pays to get a good one. For casing and other wall trim, I use a Senco and a Porter Cable. As long as the fasteners ae loaded correctly, they operate without needless jamming.
I didn't use any fasteners for the last couple of MDF edge bandings, choosing to glue and clamp. I see Bob's point, though, saving the time to clamp is a consideration. I might have to change my ways . Good luck with your new pin nailer.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Over the years Derek I've tried all kinds of screws with MDF and there has always been a tendency to delaminate and if the pilot hole is so big as to have no tendency to delaminate there is little strength in the joint. I wonder if Australian MDF differs from that in the UK.
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The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Harry, look at the screw, the pilot is only the diameter of the shank not the thread, these screws are designed for this type of use, as for mdf I only use the green one ( moisture resistant), there is a great deal of difference.
I first got the idea from my friends in the joinery shop nearby, that's what they use, if it's good enough for the professionals, it's good enough for me.
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:03 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Ah Derek, that green MDF is very expensive and used for flooring and kitchens by professionals, we hobbyists use the far cheaper product.
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Harry

The best advice that I can give a newcomer to routing is, learn to use the router mounted, this can be as simple as a board held in a vice, with the router firmly attached and a simple fence held with clamps, and when he/she feels competant and confident in it's use and is familiar with all aspects of safety, THEN, and only then proceed to learn how to use the router hand held. This is MY opinion, and may or may not coincide with that of the forum management, but is based on a lifetime of woodworking.


http://members.dodo.com.au/~sharry02/
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Harry, you cannot compare the two. Again I got the idea from the same place, the finish is remarkably superior.
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