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| This is a discussion on t track mounting within the Table-mounted Routing forums, part of the Routers category; are there any videos on how to do this ? I know its pretty straight ... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
are there any videos on how to do this ? I know its pretty straight forward would just like to see it done before i attempt. | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | ||
| Retired Moderator ![]() |
This is one of the easiest jobs you can do with your router. You cut the slot, then you fasten the track in place with small phillips screws. You will not need a video to get this to turn out.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | ||
| Moderation Team ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Anchorage, Alaska First Name: Jim Posts: 2,029 ![]() ![]() |
Two suggestions: Use an edge guide Ensure the metal track is slightly below the table top, to avoid scratching your wood.
__________________ Alaska's North Slope: One of the few places in the U.S. where when two people casually talk about the temperature getting "down to 40", both know that means -40F! Brrrrr... | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Are you cutting the track into laminate, wood, or....? IIRC, I used a spiral upcut bit and took a small amount of material with each pass. This was in a top made of MDF and laminated. I didn't use screws, electing to glue the track in place.
__________________ Sawdust is not dirt | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
The only problem I ever ran into was one setup where I was using homemade nutplates to attach a jig and found the counter sink for the screws was not quite deep enough to allow the nutplates to pass smoothly. I simply deepened the countersinks, using adhesive would have avoided the problem completely and, IMHO, if you are mounting it in MDF, adhesive would be the preferable option.
__________________ John Schaben ![]() "I haven't failed, I have simply discovered several hundred ways that don't work" | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
Wouldn't a downcut spiral make a cleaner cut on the top ( working ) surface ? Not sure I am visualizing the physics correctly... | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I don't know if the spiral direction makes that much of a difference. The fluting being at an angle is the key. One could use a straight bit, for that matter. If handled correctly, it should cut fine. I only had an upcut bit in the size needed for the track. IIRC, I cut the slots in the cheeks of the fence with a straight bit.
__________________ Sawdust is not dirt | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() |
I just used a 3/4 straight bit on laminate covered particle board, some scrap kitchen countertop material. Didn't experience a lot of chipping, but then again I didn't examine it very closely as my priority was for it to be straight and tight fitting.
__________________ John Schaben ![]() "I haven't failed, I have simply discovered several hundred ways that don't work" | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: western Washington state First Name: Tom Posts: 258 ![]() |
Like a few others, I used cement to attach, mostly because my tops have all been MDF.
__________________ I've reached the age where the "happy hour" is a nap! Regards, Tom | ||
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| | #10 (permalink) | ||
| Forum Contributor ![]() |
Just route a dado, slip the T-track in it, and screw it down. The screws don't have to be too tight as friction will hold everything in place when you tighten something into it.
__________________ . Never, under any circumstances, combine a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night. Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/ | ||
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