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| Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router. |
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| Registered User Jr. Member | hi all decided to have a go at home made router table,used 30mm thick kitchen worktop, my router handles are not detatchable and incorperate the dead mans handle type of on /off switch it cannot be locked in the (on position) first mistake i made was in thinking i needed a big rectangular hole in worktop to incorperate the router handles, only realised my error after hole and rebate was routed out. used a piece of 7mm thick laminate flooring offcut to mount router to table. table is clamped to folding workbench, and is used with extention lead for power, i had to tape the switch in the on position and plug/unplug to turn router on/off. biggest snag is router depth of plunge is 50mm top of post to base, i was trying to cut /finnish two pieces of 18mdf to make rear fence, my router bits are limited used 10mm dia cutter about 25 mm long but found with the router fully raised as far as possible this cutter does not protrude that high above table surface, i was trying to to get a decent finish on the 18mm face of mdf ,but the cutter could not be raised high enough to be higher than thickness of mdf, would the purchase of a longer straight cutter be of benifit. thank you |
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| Registered User New Member | Been there, done that. I found it is beneficial trying to build your own router table. I had similar problems and then bought a router plate kit that included a template and guide bushing. That worked well, but my table top and fence were pretty much of a disaster. The beneficial part was I had a good idea what to look for when I bought a router table. A router collet extension may solve your other problem. I bought the plate kit and extension (#9464) from mlcswoodworking.com. Don't buy their router! My router table is from hartvilletool.com - very happy with their products. |
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