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Wanted! pictures of your router table!

669K views 1K replies 386 participants last post by  jw2170 
#1 ·
Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me. :)
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.
 

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#107 ·
Have at it Buck, just as long as you give it back lol. The top and fence are 3/4 solid oak, I also bolted 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle underneath the outside perimeter for extra stability and clamping purposes. I then applied 4 coats of clear gloss lacquer for the finish. Just got done making transition threasholds from kitchen to living and it's working quite well! However I have noticed many people use MDF or some other material for thier top.
 
#109 ·
WoW I am a little late to the thread and after going thru the pages with all the different style of router tables Im amazed. Like the Old Chipper's son I am looking to build a table for my shop and here I have found a wealth of different designs. Thanks OC and everyone that posted.
 
#112 ·
So as I've been studying all the pictures in this thread, I'm thinking I might be up for making my own table rather than buying one (Thank you to everyone who has posted, this is a very informative thread). The structure and the tabletop seem straight forward to me. The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.
 
#113 ·
The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? QUOTE]

Ross, you're making this far too complicated. A fence can be any wooden straight edge.. make it long enough to reach the edges of the table and hold it in place with a couple of small c clamps. You don't need the fancy groves, t-tracks or adjusting bolts, etc. Those can come later, after you have used your table for a while and get an idea what you actually need to accomplish what you want.
 
#115 · (Edited)
Hi Ross,

IMHO You're best bet is to make a split fence.
All you need is a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum ( or make your own from hard wood ), a hack saw, drill, T track, carriage bolts, T- bolts, and MDF.
Its the easiest thing in the world to build. It just sounds intimidating is all.

Think of it like the side of the fence closest to you on a table saw sled.
Its basically A long board on end tall enough to pass over the blade with enough height up top allow enough material left to keep it securely together after it passes over the blade. Only difference is the opening will be larger, you'll have 90 degree cleets on the back for support, and two pieces of sacrificial MDF with terminated, through slots routed into them so they can slide to and fro on the fence.
The out feed side sacrificial MDF will be held on with slightly longer bolts so that you can use shims to joint.
 
#118 ·
Here is my table... Right now it sets on a couple saw horses when I need it. After Christmas I am going to be working on a bench for the shop and then it will go into the bench.

It's two 3/4" MDF sheets glued together and then routed for the T-rails and miter guide. I did not cover it with any laminate or anything... It has several coats of a hard poly to make the surface slick. It has worked great for me so far.









The fence I made myself as well. It's from a design I saw in a magazine that is just for routers... One of the "Router Secrets" magazines.


Tim
 
#119 ·
Mine is a "work in progress."

It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.

Pics at Photography of Terry Danks-Woodworking

The tracks I am using are ones from Busy Bee: Busy Bee Tools Product Detail

Uses standard 1/4" - 20 hex bolts
3/4" x 3/8" requires 3/4" material for flush mount

Does anyone know if there are miter gauges made to fit small tracks like these? I would like to make a sled for doing cabinet rails but am unsure if I should be using tracks like these. They seem smaller than "standard" table saw tracks.:confused:
 
#120 ·
I am not sure if there is miter gauge made for the smaller track.

I would suggest laying down two tracks. One small and one for a miter gauge, just in case.

Woodpeckers sells them. I am sure Rockler does too!!!

Looks like a good use of space and you will never be lacking in table top space.

What do you plan to use for a fence?
 
#125 ·
Well I am late to this thread, but thought that I would post a few pictures of my current RT. It was made about 5-6 years ago and has been modified a few times since birth. I plan on using ideas gathered from RouterForums to make a new one sometime in the near future. Thanks for all of the good ideas folks!

The RT has 2 1/5" vacuum hose connections from the fence and below next to the router. This setup picks up maybe 75% of the dust and chips and needs to be enclosed to be more efficient.

Anyway, it works for now.
 

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#126 ·
Oliver, did you make your own plate out of hardboard? I see a horizonal panel raising bit in the drawer. These need 3hp plus machines to drive so you must have a pretty beefy router in there(can't tell from the pic).
I considered using masonite to make a plate but thought, after countersinking the mounting screws, there would not be enough left of the temprered surface to safely support the 13lb 3 1/4 hp router.
 
#127 ·
I am bleeding with jealousy... I have a boughten Ryobi router table and just got 2 new routers for Christmas. I haven't even plugged them in yet to test them. I'm going to get some wood next week and just try the bits and get used to them and how the table handles. I want to make my own RT but I might buy the Router Workshop setup. I've been watching the program a long time and think that may be the way to go. Am I the only one in Olympia that wants to use a router? Kewl tables guys...
 
#128 ·
Hi Terry, The top of the RT is made from one layer of 3/4" MDF with bracing underneath. The edge of the table is built up with another layer of MDF to make the edge 1 1/2" thick. The plate is made of 3/8" MDF - but is the source of problems with sag (as you may guess). It was OK with a smaller router, but as I have moved up in HP (and weight) the sag has become a problem. Repeatability is becoming an issue.
I am contemplating which plate to move to and am thinking that I will also build a new table top that is a little bit bigger as well.
Any suggestions as to which plate and ring set you think is best? And why?
Thanks,
 
#131 ·
Ed you won't be disappointed with the Router Workshop Table. I think these guys have done an amazing job building some of these tables, some of them rival fine furniture. But I wouldn't trade the RW table. It's simplicity and capabilities suit me just fine.
 
#134 ·
Hi Marvin - Welcome to the forum.
This is kind of a interesting topic by itself. Why don't you start a new thread for it? This one is getting kinda long.
For me they would be size prohibitive. Usually 5ft or so and I haven't got room. 2-3 ft is all you really need:).
 
#137 ·
Well, it's done . . . and seems fine.

About a month ago, I had virtually nothing in the way of a router other than a 35 year old Craftsman I had never used (successfully, anyhow) for anything other than mortising hinges. Everything else was just a disaster and I wondered how in heck people managed to use these things?

Table is now complete and I have already turned out a pair of beadboard inset panel doors for my wife's bedroom furniture project using a rail and stile bit set.

Very happy so far. Thanks to forum members for suggestions, advice and the encouragment to build my own rather than buy a cheap commercial one. This is a great source of information.
Picture of the table, inset into my old workbench is attached. The monstrously high fence is to allow for use of a vertical panel raising bit.
Airplane Vehicle Model aircraft Aircraft Toy
 
#138 ·
I guess I should add some snapshots of the router tables in the shop ..

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#143 · (Edited)
bobj3,

I am jealous. My garage is at the point that if I want anything new, something old has to go! That reminds me - I need to submit my plans for a tool shed to the home owners association asap. The lack of garden tools in your shop is what reminded me.

Thanks for taking time to upload some photos.

P.S. Here is a link to the kitchen I have been working on.

Latest kitchen project

Owner is still debating what finish he wants. I really have enjoyed my new router table setup. It has been a real pleasure to work with and my work has improved.
 
#144 ·
Hi Brad

Thanks,,I got the garden tools in the back room plus other stuff :)

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#147 ·
I have come way late into this but here is a link to my earlier post:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/10856-ugly-router-table.html

The follow-up thoughts:

1) Attaching the table to the mitre saw is a mistake. One can use one or the other but not both at the same time. Which is a pain.

2) A piece of 2x4 jointed on my other fence works fine as a fence. At. $1.74 for 8' I can have many fences...

3) The knobbly clamps sold by OP are great. The cost including postage is $35. Here is a pair made from cheap clamps bought on sale for less than a third of that:

Router table clamps on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

4) I have found a way to make a removable elevated bench on top of my Black and Decker workmate using some 4x4s and a piece of plywood from the now defunct ******* lathe. I am thinking of making a router table top in a similar way this time using one of the cheap phenolic plates to give me the option to use bigger cutters.
 
#148 ·
Router Table

Hello,
I have finally finished my Router Table/Cabinet. I chose to use the NYW plans for the cabinet and purchased a Woodpeckers Router Lift and Table.
It took me three weekends but the results were worth it.
Suggestions on improving it are most welcome.
Brian
 

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#149 ·
Hi Brian

That's a fine looking RT, nice job, I'm sure it will serve you well :)



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Hello,
I have finally finished my Router Table/Cabinet. I chose to use the NYW plans for the cabinet and purchased a Woodpeckers Router Lift and Table.
It took me three weekends but the results were worth it.
Suggestions on improving it are most welcome.
Brian
 
#151 ·
Well, I'm building a table now. But I want to incorporate dust collection that that will necessitate a closed cabinet. Most of the cabinets have a door that opens on the side of the cabinet. I was thinking of hinging the top and tipping it up instead. It seems to me that there would be a lot less bending over and a lot more light shining on the router for bit changes, etc.

Has anyone done a table with a hinged top? Am I overlooking anything?
 
#152 ·
I guess it depends on what hardware you have and what your needs for access to it are. I have decided that there will be no door at all to the router. With my current lift, I have little need for access.

I think it would be easier to assure a flat and stable base for your router if it were fixed. But, I am sure a tilt top could be built to assure the same rigidity.

What do you need to access?
 
#155 ·
Hi Harry,

We showed you ours, lets see yours...LOL.

Has you son built his table yet?

Some photos would be nice..:)


James
 
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