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| Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router. |
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| | #1 |
| Registered User Sr. Member | I bought a cheapie 3/8 rabbet bit yesterday and slapped it in my #890 under the table. Went to run some red oak to do a 3/8 rabbet. Man oh man that thing chomped and chattered and ripped hell out of the cut. Am I doing something wrong here? It makes the cut sure enough but it is a pretty ragged looking mess. Should I be taking this cut in two or three passes, going a little deeper each time? Is there something I have forgotten?? |
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| | #2 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | I bought a cheapie 3/8 rabbet bit yesterday = that may be your answare carbide or junk = on the end grain their may be some tare out but should be slite 3/8" not all that bad of a bite 3/8" by 3/8" ? or bigger 1 way if so you may have to do it in a couple pass's try the bit on some other wood run it the same and see what happen's i bet it works ok oak has lot's of grain running in it del schisler
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| | #3 |
| Registered User Supreme Forum King | HI BW! I guess I still try not to take more than 1/4" cuts at a pass - oftentimes less, particularly with red oak - like Del says, red oak grain has its own set of problems and I do use a lot of it cause it's readily available and I like the grain patterns in it - try shallow passes and sneak up on the final pass at like 1/16" and see if that helps. Not sure exactly what you're making, but if cutting end grain in the process, cut it first and then the edge grain. Probably haven't told you anything you don't already know! |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King | Birchwood, your problem is likely a combination of using the cheap bit and the red oak. The first thing called for is an inspection of the bit. I bought a set of cheap bits; a 40 piece set for very little money when I started out. The very first bit I tried made a terrible cut. I looked at the bit and discovered that the paint was rubbed off behind the cutting edge... the bit was not properly clearanced. An easy way to test your bit is to try making your cut on a piece of pine. Gilbear is right. Do not try and cut more than a 1/4" in a pass. On some difficult hardwoods I actually limit my cuts to 1/8" in a pass. You can easily make another pass to remove more wood. Putting it back just doesn't happen. Other things tha can cause a lot of tearout or burning are the speed you push your router, stopping in the middle of a cut, bit's that have a build up of resin from cutting, dull bits cause many problems. My advice when using a new bit is to practice on a piece of scrap pine first. This will give you a chance to evaluate the bit before expensive wood is put at risk.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. |
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| | #5 |
| Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King | Birchwood Or you can do it Bob's way (the router boys) that works best when working with Oak. Put the Rabbet bit back in the box and chuck up a 3/8" or 1/2" carb. bit and use the brass setup bars to set the cut along with a fence. Make the 1st.pass to get a nice clean cut about 3/32" and then a 2nd pass to get the 3/8" rabbet. Bob will do this on many boxes lids and other items. Bj ![]() |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User Sr. Member | Ya know what guys?....When Bob3 said just use the Bob way I laughed out loud, because that is the way I USUALLY cut a rabbet; use a solid carbide straight bit set with the bar 3/8 up and 3/8 in and BAM....a nice rabbet in usually one pass. It was when I got FANCY with the rabbet bit I ran into trouble. Incidenally, I have a rabetting set I got someplace but it is so damned complicated I put it in a drawer and never took it back out. It has a million different bearings etc. BUT, there is an allen head screw in the arbor that I CANNOT get loose-thus rendering useless the entire set. Nifty huh?? Thanks for the help. You are ALL right of course. |
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| | #7 |
| Registered User Supreme Forum King | Birchwood, get a small can of penetrating oil, (not WD40), soak the bit in it for a day or two. That alien bolt will loosen up for ya. Here on the farm, we use diesel fuel for such appilcations, however, takes alot to get the smell off your hands. |
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| | #8 |
| Registered User Sr. Member | Man I LOVE the smell of diesel oil. Use a tad to get the wood stove going in my little shed on cool mornings. Love the smell of it when I fire up my Powerstroke Ford and like a slight whiff of it when I warm up the old M-Benz station wagon. In fact the only smell I like better than diesel is the smell of bacon frying. Or maybe the smoky bouqet of a freshly opened bottle of Markers Mark. I cover the diesel smell on my hands with a splash on each paw. I'll try some diesel on that gypo rabbeting set. Thanks. |
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| | #9 |
| Registered User Supreme Forum King | Birchwood - do you also listen to Wagner and fly helicopters? ![]() (Couldn't agree more on the Makers Mark!) Last edited by Gilbear; 04-21-2006 at 08:14 AM. |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King | Anybody who drinks bourbon is ok in my book. Oh and Gilbear? It hasn't come up in a while but I used to repair weapons and the systems that control them on attack helicopters; a rotorhead for life. Fly ARMY!
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. |
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