bobj3

Your Welcome Dave

I just Posted a how to make a mortise jig of the forum.
It's a easy jig to make and it works .
"clamping a second piece of wood " down will work but you will get drifting issues but the jig will fix that.
I clamp all the stock I need to make a book case to the work bench and then cut all of them at one time ,in this way they all line up when you go to put them in place.
Sliding Dovetails can be a pain if they don't line up right on the button as I'm sure you found out by now, they can't be off a 1/16 like the dado.
The jig will keep them true.... and they can't drift off because the jig is in the rail of the clamp.
Just a note:: you can get the alum.stock when you get the clamp and then check it to make sure it fits the slot, the one I found was a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" in the junk box under the work bench for a equipment bracket ,I also found some in a old alum. lawn chair that worked out just right for the power hand saw.

Have a good one.

Bj

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GoonMan

Thanks Bob, I had started making a Mortise Jig similar to the one in your pic but it did not have the height adjustments. Now I know what I was missing when I was trying to figure out for taller pieces. Thanks for the tip.


Sometimes I over look something so simple.

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Randy

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reikimaster

I made a "saw guide" out of 1/4" MDF and aluminum angle stock. I have a 4 footer and 6 foot and I can see where you'd want an 8 foot at some point.

Measure your saw plate from the blade to the edge of the plate. Do this on the saw plate's WIDEST section. Let's say this measurement is 4 inches. Cut a strip of MDF. How wide? Let's say you're using 1" aluminum angle. So now you have 4" of plate, plus 1" of angle. Add an inch. You're now at 6 inches. Cut your MDF that wide. Length depends on how long your angle stock is. Now fasten the angle to the strip of MDF. I use screws UP through the MDF with washers and nuts on top. Kinda like this:

Not sure how that looks but you get the idea.

Now if you set the wide side of your saw plate on this thing, well the MDF is too wide!
That's exactly right.
Now clamp it to the edge of a table so you can saw THROUGH the MDF without cutting your table.

This should cut off a strip about an inch wide (remember "add an inch"?).
You now have a guide that you can set right at your cut line. You clamp this to the "keeper" side and run your saw plate against the angle stock.

This will reduce your maximum depth of cut by 1/4" (the thickness of the MDF), but for panels that's usually not an issue.

This falls into my "It Ain't Fancy, But it Works" category. I got this tip from an older fellow in the neighborhood where I use to live. He made cabinets and furniture of all kinds.

I use things like this because I often find myself in a position where... it's just hard to justify spending ANOTHER $25 to $50 on something I may only use once or twice.

Now... if I found I was going to be cutting panels OFTEN... then one of the store-bought guides would be in my shop in a heartbeat.

bobj3

You're Welcome GoonMan

I also had the same error with old one and then I put my hat on and said O I get it.
Parts are not right. (the plan one size only) can't have that,time for a rework.

You can also make taller side parts that just bolt on for 3" to 6" or more.

I hope you enjoy like I do.

Bj

bobj3

Reikimaster

Can you Please post a snapshot of it, I have a open mind and I love to see new jigs.
I don't get the CODE Item, a little help on that one please.

Bj

Gilbear

RM - I use similar guides for my circular saw, jig saw and router as I don't have a table saw - this isn't just an "it ain't fancy but it works" thing - it works pretty flippin well!! That edge on the mdf will be right at the saws or bit's cut line (at least untill you change blades or bits)!) - NOTE: make sure your blade is truley at 90 to the base plate or as you change cut depth it will drift away from the guide edge! If you want to make the "Deluxe" model, put some self-adhesive sand paper on the bottom side so they're less likely to slip. Pretty fancy!!

bobj3

Just some show and tell snapshots.

Power Hand Saw with Jig to hold it true and sq. with the hold down clamp in place

Bj

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Gilbear

Hey, BJ!
I think the beauty of addding a base plate to a circular is, not only have you trued-up the edge with the blade, but if you make it zero clearnce by plunging through it the first time, you have a ready gauge to tell you where either edge of the blade is gonna cut as well as providing chipping protection, particularly on plywood - the thing with the guide like RM and I use is there's no additional measuring - mark your cut line on the material, line the mdf edge of the guide right on it and cut away! Once again, many ways to skin a cat - glad I'm not a cat!

bobj3

Hi Gilbear

You're right about
"many ways to skin a cat"
This jig just drops in the channel of the clamp bar.
"there's no additional measuring" as well on this one.
i.e. to cut a 24" board off the 4' x 8' you would just mark the cut at 26 7/8 " put the clamp on the marks lock it down,drop the saw in the slot of the clamp and cut away and you will come away with a true sq.cut 24" board, it can't move off the center of the cut because it's in the slot of the Clamp'N Tool Guide.
You don't need to guide or hold it down just a light push and you done.
The mass of the saw and the base board will do most of the work.
No blade jams,no burn marks,no side cuts,no nicks,just a clean cut.

Bj

Gilbear

Man, BJ -
If we keep this up there's not gonna be any cats left to skin and then whose gonna keep all those rampant dogs under control?!!
Either ways cool in my book and I see what you're saying - you deduct the base plate offset from your measurement - I just prefer having to do a little less math - I've been challenged that way since kindergarten (in fact I barely got out alive)!!