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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 06-10-2006, 09:47 PM   #1
deck99
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Default What's the best way?

Hi all,
I plan to make a new router table to hold my new 3.25 hp hulk. A while back I built a router table to attach to my Delta contractors saw. I made a square template to cut the hole. Then I cut a piece of clear plastic and rounded the corners. It was kind of a pain to get a good fit.

What's the best way to cut a hole and then match a plate to fit?

Thanks,

Deck
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Old 06-11-2006, 10:59 AM   #2
bobj3
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Deck

I'm doing the same thing,you may want to get a top that's done
The top must be true and flat to work right.
The one I just got you can change the bits from the top of the router table or pop it out quick and easy the router boys way ( Bob & Rick )
The neat thing about this top you can use it from the front side or the back side of the cabinet.
If you want to see a snapshot just ask and I will post one.

Top from:
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?ID=6
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/
-------------------------
Plus the one that's Mike's talking about.▼
BUT note***The only plate molded with a slight crown to insure the cutter is the highest point for accurate, distortion free cuts.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=...Search+Froogle

Bj
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Last edited by bobj3; 06-12-2006 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 06-11-2006, 05:13 PM   #3
bobj3
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Deck
Mounting the P.C. router can be a bit tricky because the mount holes come out right on the side of the Alum.snap out ring.
Marc said to just notch the Alum.ring I didn't like that ideal so I took a forrest bit and put in a pocket down to the base of the Alum.ring seat and then drilled it out and put in a counter sink holes under the snap out ring.
I used a 1/16" bit to start off with and the used a 3/16" drill bit for the mount screws.
Just a NOTE*** the screws to hold the PC in place are 10-24 (3/16-24)
Take some 10-24 set screws that are 1" long put them in your drill and grind them to a sharp POINT then screw them into the base of the router.
Then put in the 1 9/16" plug you made with the old 1/4" router bit,glued in place.
Then place the router on the botton side of the base plate and TAP the router base with a hammer, this will mark the spot to drill the 1/16" holes to mount the router to the base plate.
After you have the 1/16" holes turn over the base plate a use a 3/8" forrest bit to put in the pocket holes then drill the holes out to 3/16" and counter sink the holes.
You will need a 3/8" OD max counter sink bit.

Just some snapshots for kicks...


Bj
Attached Thumbnails
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whats-best-way-561.jpg  whats-best-way-562.jpg  
__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.


Last edited by bobj3; 06-12-2006 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:27 AM   #4
Mike
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Another possibility is to go with a Rousseau mounting plate. You can purchase a template kit which makes a perfect fit every time. There is also centering/mounting kits to assure your router is perfectly mounted in your plate.
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