Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-03-2011, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard

so here is the deal

building a table out of 2 pieces of of 3/4 mdf glued together

now the top will be white formica

now I have read here most people say you need to put formica on the underside to keep the table from warping to seal the mdf from warping...

so since formica is expensive how would it be using tempered 1/4 hard board glued to the bottom of the table instead of the formica....

I am edge banding the whole thing in 3/4 pine that I am putting on with biscuits to the side of the table

thanks
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 09:41 AM
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Sounds fine. You just want the top to have the same humidity exposure to both sides. Even waxing the underside would probably work.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by istracpsboss View Post
Sounds fine. You just want the top to have the same humidity exposure to both sides. Even waxing the underside would probably work.

Cheers

Peter
Thanks peter
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 10:01 AM
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The underlying concept is to keep laminations as "matched" sets of material having the same expansion coefficient - like properly-made plywood, a core encased in matching sets of veneers.

MDF doesn't have a conventional expansion coefficient, but is subject to moisture absorption, which could induce some warping. Tempered hardboard would be subject to the same sort of effect. If you don't want to apply Formica to the bottom surface, I'd suggest sealing it with a couple of coats of shellac, and then wax it if you want. Shellac is an excellent moisture barrier.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 10:56 AM
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I'm wondering if biscuits in the MDF are a good idea. Never tried it but MDF seems a bit sensitive to having the edges messed with.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 12:34 PM
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I used to paint the unseen surfaces of cabinets with leftover latex paint I had around. #1, to get rid of the paint, and #2, to seal the exposed surfaces to protect from humidity. I'm sure it may have brought up some questions if someone ever tore apart the kitchens.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 04:23 PM
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Ralph has hit the nail on the head with "The underlying concept is to keep laminations as "matched" sets of material having the same expansion coefficient - like properly-made plywood, a core encased in matching sets of veneers. "
.The biscuits in MDF will work just fine ,but they really aren't needed as they are only used for alignment and add little if any strength to the join.

Harold
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 07:54 PM
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I personally have never experienced MDF warping with or without a laminate surface on it, but then again, when ive used "Formica" it has been for kitchen or bathroom countertops, or workshop surfaces, or even cabinets with the doors and cabinet outsides being laminated only. I am sure the previous suggestions of shellac or paint would be fine. Unless your 3/4" pine edgebanding is gonna take alot of abuse, then glue and pin nailing it will be all you need to do.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 07:56 PM
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So from what I am hearing is shalacing the best way to cover mdf ?

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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thank you to everyone for all the input it has been very helpful
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