Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard - Router Forums
Help
Require Assistance? Read the Beginners Guide to RouterForums.com
RouterForums.com - Router and Woodworking Discussion Community

Go Back   Router Forums > Routers > Table-mounted Routing
IconIt appears you arenít a registered member of the Router Forums community. Why not spend less than a minute and register for the oldest and largest router and woodworking community on the web! Join in over 29,500 discussions with over 65,000 woodworkers. If youíre an experienced or beginner woodworker, your questions and knowledge is always warmly welcomed by our community. Register now for your FREE account!

Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard

This is a discussion on Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard within the Table-mounted Routing forums, part of the Routers category; so here is the deal building a table out of 2 pieces of of 3/4 ...


  • Replies: 19, Views: 4196

New Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-03-2011, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Country: United States
First Name: theprofiler
Posts: 55
tryingtokeepmyfingers is on a distinguished road

Default Question about laminating MDF ? formica , hardboard
Report Post Report This Post!

so here is the deal

building a table out of 2 pieces of of 3/4 mdf glued together

now the top will be white formica

now I have read here most people say you need to put formica on the underside to keep the table from warping to seal the mdf from warping...

so since formica is expensive how would it be using tempered 1/4 hard board glued to the bottom of the table instead of the formica....

I am edge banding the whole thing in 3/4 pine that I am putting on with biscuits to the side of the table

thanks

tryingtokeepmyfingers is offline  
Sponsored Advertisement - Register now to remove this advertisement.
** Please be sure to read our Disclaimer at the bottom of the page. **

Advertisement

These advertisements are only displayed to guests, register now for your FREE account on the worlds largest router and woodworking community!
Old 04-04-2011, 10:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
istracpsboss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Country: Croatia
First Name: Peter
Posts: 1,683
istracpsboss is a jewel in the rough

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

Sounds fine. You just want the top to have the same humidity exposure to both sides. Even waxing the underside would probably work.

Cheers

Peter
istracpsboss is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 10:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Country: United States
First Name: theprofiler
Posts: 55
tryingtokeepmyfingers is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

Quote:
Originally Posted by istracpsboss View Post
Sounds fine. You just want the top to have the same humidity exposure to both sides. Even waxing the underside would probably work.

Cheers

Peter
Thanks peter
tryingtokeepmyfingers is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Ralph Barker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Ralph
Posts: 2,001
Ralph Barker is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

The underlying concept is to keep laminations as "matched" sets of material having the same expansion coefficient - like properly-made plywood, a core encased in matching sets of veneers.

MDF doesn't have a conventional expansion coefficient, but is subject to moisture absorption, which could induce some warping. Tempered hardboard would be subject to the same sort of effect. If you don't want to apply Formica to the bottom surface, I'd suggest sealing it with a couple of coats of shellac, and then wax it if you want. Shellac is an excellent moisture barrier.
__________________
- Ralph
Ralph Barker is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,020
jschaben will become famous soon enough

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

I'm wondering if biscuits in the MDF are a good idea. Never tried it but MDF seems a bit sensitive to having the edges messed with.
__________________
John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Jack
Posts: 110
barking spider is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

I used to paint the unseen surfaces of cabinets with leftover latex paint I had around. #1, to get rid of the paint, and #2, to seal the exposed surfaces to protect from humidity. I'm sure it may have brought up some questions if someone ever tore apart the kitchens.
barking spider is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 05:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
pal
Registered User
 
pal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Country: Australia
First Name: Harold
Posts: 208
pal is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

Ralph has hit the nail on the head with "The underlying concept is to keep laminations as "matched" sets of material having the same expansion coefficient - like properly-made plywood, a core encased in matching sets of veneers. "
.The biscuits in MDF will work just fine ,but they really aren't needed as they are only used for alignment and add little if any strength to the join.

Harold
pal is offline  
Sponsored Advertisements. Register to disable this advertisement.

Advertisement

Old 04-04-2011, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 48
jcr3 is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

I personally have never experienced MDF warping with or without a laminate surface on it, but then again, when ive used "Formica" it has been for kitchen or bathroom countertops, or workshop surfaces, or even cabinets with the doors and cabinet outsides being laminated only. I am sure the previous suggestions of shellac or paint would be fine. Unless your 3/4" pine edgebanding is gonna take alot of abuse, then glue and pin nailing it will be all you need to do.
jcr3 is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 08:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
papawd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Country: United States
First Name: warren
Posts: 2,489
papawd is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

So from what I am hearing is shalacing the best way to cover mdf ?
__________________
K.I.S.S.- Keep It Super Simple
For I Am Confussion at its Best
Don't fix it if it Ain't broken
Makin sawdust now in South Louisiana
papawd is offline  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Country: United States
First Name: theprofiler
Posts: 55
tryingtokeepmyfingers is on a distinguished road

Default
Report Post Report This Post!

thank you to everyone for all the input it has been very helpful
tryingtokeepmyfingers is offline  
New Reply

Go Back   Router Forums > Routers > Table-mounted Routing
IconIt appears you arenít a registered member of the Router Forums community. Why not spend less than a minute and register for the oldest and largest router and woodworking community on the web! Join in over 29,500 discussions with over 65,000 woodworkers. If youíre an experienced or beginner woodworker, your questions and knowledge is always warmly welcomed by our community. Register now for your FREE account!



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Contact Cement for MDF Cassandra Table-mounted Routing 28 04-30-2010 11:39 PM
Req. Critique - TS Ext Table: MDF table top and mounting - avoiding splitting BigJimAK Table-mounted Routing 11 06-14-2009 12:38 PM
Quick question... woodaholic Table-mounted Routing 12 04-25-2009 04:21 AM
[FAQ] How to Post a Question Mark Forum Help & FAQ 0 01-11-2009 10:26 PM
Routing MDF Question dadsalmon Table-mounted Routing 14 10-18-2007 08:02 PM