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reible · 06-18-2006, 01:08 AM

Hi,

I have a feeling that a few of you forum members are as excited as I was to do a saw cane but might be having trouble getting started........ I'm not going to give you plans but just some thoughts and details on what I did.

First you might want to check this post so we are all on the same page:
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2734-saw-cane.html#post29272

I started by looking at my hand saw collection then picked the handle I liked the best and seem to favor being made into a cane. The thickness of the handle was 7/8" and the thickness really gives the cane the feel of a saw.

I then made a pattern out of 1/4" tempered hardboard using the handle as a pattern then adding the cane portion. I picked a different angle then what the real blade was attached at to give the look and feel that I wanted. I marked the holes for screws and drilled a small hole so I could use screws to help hold the pattern in place in addition to some double sided tape and a hole at the far end past the length I needed for another screw(see details about length below). I drilled the hand grip portion and then sanded it all smooth.

Next I guessed at a length knowing who was going to use it... This can be a bit of a guess so you might want to go longer then cut it to fit as needed. I went about 3" longer then my guess for some adjustment. I at this point ordered the cane tip from lee valley. They offered a 5/8" or 3/4" I opted for 3/4".

I found that I needed a width of about 5-1/2" if I tilted the handle slightly to the long direction of the wood. In review, 7/8" thick and at least 5-1/2 wide and length as required.

Wood selections should be made keeping in mind the strength that might be needed and grain patterns and things like knots etc. If you have the pattern made up it doesn't take long to find the correct workpiece... (you can even take it to the wood store with you).

I traced the pattern on the workpiece then used my bandsaw to do the outside cuts within about a 1/16" to 1/8" of the line. As I mentioned a couple of screw hold the handle part but the cane portion is long and hardboard can flex a bit so some double sided tape will help hold that portion better. I should point out that the last few inches of the cane needs to fit the tip so the taper flattens down there. You also need to reduce the 7/8" thickness to 3/4" by that point. I opted for a long taper.

I drilled out most of the material for the hand hole staying just away from the lines, a flat bottom bit can take a lot of the material away and that makes the routing operation go a lot better.

I used my table mounted router to trim away the ruff cuts and clean up the edges by running against the pattern. After removing the pattern I used a round over bit to round everything then sanded to clean up. (I opted to sand the taper but there are many ways to do that.)

Now came the point of picking a length... since the person I was building it for lives 400 miles away I took a guess and cut it to length. Now this might not be the best way to do it but it turns out I got away with it.

As I mentioned before since I knew who this was for I selected an understated look. A simple stain sealer followed by antique oil and wax. What I did to make it look a bit older and more used was to look at my hand saws and see the wear patterns then used ruff sand paper to adjust those points followed by some light fine sanding so it would absorb more stain thus look darker like my old saws look.

The saw screws I got from Ace hardware online, I drilled the holes (different sizes one each side). I was looking for a medalian but had no luck finding anyone that sells them.... if anyone does find a source please post the information. The gain of wheat I did free hand with a woodburner tip and like my saw it had that on only one side of the handle. Some saws have it on both sides and I have no idea where this idea came from.

I have a pattern but after building this one I might want to make a few changes before I do any more. Some way of hanging it would be useful and as I found out a rubber tip seems to be a better choice but I like the metal look and might just do as I did and add rubber over the metal tip. I'm also looking at maybe having a cord attached that goes over the wrist in case it slips from the hand???

If you need more information just ask, I or someone else who is building these might be able to help.

Ed

reible · 06-18-2006, 01:24 AM

One thing I forgot to mention was that a google search on "cane length" will provide a good starting place such as:
http://www.pennyrosecanes.com/misc/canelength.html

Ed

Visteonguy · 06-18-2006, 09:00 AM

Good post, with lots of good information, Ed. One suggestion I might leave as to the lenght. I made mine all about 6 or 7 inches longer then the finished product and drilled a hole in the end about3 or 4 inches long that was large enough to slip over a nail. It turned out to make a decent handle to hang onto while you are applying the finish and also left me with a way to kind of mount it to a quickly built fixture that I made out of scrap wood that would hold the canes upright while they were drying. ( I used a spray gun to apply several coats of polyurthaine ). I just pounded some 16 penny nails through some old scrap boards so they stuck up a few inches and slipped the canes over the exposed nails. Then when they were done and I knew who was getting the canes, I had a better idea of how long to cut them so they would fit the person. Since I only used the rubber tip on mine, you have about an inch or so of hidden wood under the rubber tip, You can just take a saw along and custom fit it to the person, if you need to, by cutting off an inch at a time and letting that person try it out till they are happy with the lenght.
I am able to cut my own lumber so the thickness is what ever I want it to be,, and I used 1 inch thick stuff only becuase it worked with a 1/2 inch round over bit perfectly, but unless you start out with rough cut lumber, and have to go with finished lumber from a lumber yard, then your choices are more limited, 7/8's works just as well. Reible is right,, if you deviate too much from that,,, it would just not feel right.

reible · 06-18-2006, 04:23 PM

Maybe a few words on pattern making might be in order. I think I did this pattern in maybe 20 minutes start to finish.

I traced and then bandsawing close to the lines and did the necessary drilling. For the cane portion I just tacked the pattern on to a straight edge and routed it. This then required a very light sanding to remove the burr but no dimensional or finished sanding to speak of. For the handle portion I chucked up a sanding drum and did the major material removal (I used 3 sizes of drums*) to the lines. As I mentioned a drill bit removed most of the hand grip material and the sanding drum the rest. The nice part of the 1/4" material is the sanding goes fast. I then went with some sand paper in hand to do any transitions and final smoothing. I like to have the sandpaper in hand as you can feel the ruff spots or any bumps or valleys.

* I like to use a drum the same size as the flush trim bit or bushing I'm going to use so I make sure none of the places the bit/bushing needs to go can be fully followed. If I don't have a drum that size I go up one to the size I have.

Ed

Dr.Zook · 06-18-2006, 08:32 PM

Thanks Ed. I take back MOST of what I said about you, but not all.

LOL

reible · 06-18-2006, 10:26 PM

[QUOTE=Dr.Zook]Thanks Ed. I take back MOST of what I said about you, but not all.

LOL

[/quote] Are you taking back the good things you said or the bad things????

Hope this gets you and a lot of others out in the shop making one of these great projects. And I'm looking forward to seeing some photos in the Show N' Tell area.

Ed

reible · 06-19-2006, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SandyBR549

I was lucky enough to have a saw at hand and traced the handle from that. Is that what you used for a pattern?
The drum sander is another great idea I'll remember.
Thanks again!

Yes I used a regular old handsaw as the pattern. I'm still a bit old school and still have and use handsaws.... at least one project a year to keep in practice and to remember the good old days when that was about all I had to use. OK, and to know how much easier we have it now-a-days.

While I was out of town last week I even looked at a few old saws in a shop but didn't find a shape I liked more then the one I used. Might find one some day as the price is often very good while the saw blade might be in very bad condition the handle might inspire a pattern....

Ed

reible · 06-26-2006, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SandyBR549

Ed,
These canes lean more toward what a man would want to use for a cane, at least IMHO. I've been trying to think of something maybe a bit more feminine for ladies, like maybe, since the shape of the handle reminds me of a cat, doing something with that idea. But for now, I'm getting real close to cutting my saw cane out. I'm waiting for the wood filler to dry on my planter and I will be able to stain it. Yippee! Thank you for your reply.

Yes this is more of a mans cane in my book too. I did think of maybe using a rose design on the handle and attempting to get a more pink stain on some white wood?? My Mom was quite the builder so if she were still with us she would no doubt like the saw idea but maybe painted red... or something to do with cars her other passion. (Lug wrench cane??)

I don't know if any of you remember the days when thread came on wooden spools but I saw a lot of items made of the spools like book shelves etc. If I could come up with a handle idea and made it a two piece cane that might be interesing for someone that sews.

My wife likes to garden so we have been trying to think of some garden related cane for an aunt I have that like to garden. So far we have not come up with anything special for that either.

Anyone want to do a hobby = cane idea post please do so...

Maybe your cat idea would work?? Trying to picture what you had in mind.

Ed

Visteonguy · 06-27-2006, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SandyBR549

May I ask what price these canes go for? (I am having so much fun making them, but still wonder what the going price is).

Hi Sandy,,, I just came up with a price of $45 off the top of my head, when I was asked " how much ", But then I was not taking into account the cost of the wood, if you have to buy the board to start with. If you made one, you have found out that there is quite a bit of waste wood, in trying to cut a couple of them from a board. My wood is basically free and just some times forget to add that cost into the price., but everyone that I gave one to,, shook their head and said "too low, way too low". So maybe it is. A man from Kentucky, asked me to make him a cane that he could give to his father, told me, that a person that is in the market for a "custom Cane" would have extra funds to spend on this item,, and would expect to pay for a custom made article made especially for them,, He thought a hundred dollars would easily be in the ball park for one.
I am intrigued with your idea of a garden hose for a cane, I have an idea in my head that would have the hose loop around the top to form a handle and then come back under and touch the shaft and then maybe just tip back away from it so you could attach the brass end of a real hose to the wood to
give the impression that it is a garden hose. Perhaps a lot like what you described. You could certainly use the router with a round over bit to do a lot of it to make it round but I think it would also require some hand carving to finish it where it would attach to the shaft near where the end of the hose would be,, at least in my version of it. Now I have to find the time to create it. But I think ya got a good idea there.

**Mike** · 06-27-2006, 06:35 AM

Ed, I have an idea for your mother in laws cane. Make it look like a scythe. A short wooden "blade" should be a good shape to grip, and there is the added benefit of mother in law / grim reaper jokes to share and enjoy.

06-18-2006, 01:08 AM	#1
reible Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,703 View reible's Gallery	Report This Post! Saw cane details and thoughts Hi, I have a feeling that a few of you forum members are as excited as I was to do a saw cane but might be having trouble getting started........ I'm not going to give you plans but just some thoughts and details on what I did. First you might want to check this post so we are all on the same page: http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2734-saw-cane.html#post29272 I started by looking at my hand saw collection then picked the handle I liked the best and seem to favor being made into a cane. The thickness of the handle was 7/8" and the thickness really gives the cane the feel of a saw. I then made a pattern out of 1/4" tempered hardboard using the handle as a pattern then adding the cane portion. I picked a different angle then what the real blade was attached at to give the look and feel that I wanted. I marked the holes for screws and drilled a small hole so I could use screws to help hold the pattern in place in addition to some double sided tape and a hole at the far end past the length I needed for another screw(see details about length below). I drilled the hand grip portion and then sanded it all smooth. Next I guessed at a length knowing who was going to use it... This can be a bit of a guess so you might want to go longer then cut it to fit as needed. I went about 3" longer then my guess for some adjustment. I at this point ordered the cane tip from lee valley. They offered a 5/8" or 3/4" I opted for 3/4". I found that I needed a width of about 5-1/2" if I tilted the handle slightly to the long direction of the wood. In review, 7/8" thick and at least 5-1/2 wide and length as required. Wood selections should be made keeping in mind the strength that might be needed and grain patterns and things like knots etc. If you have the pattern made up it doesn't take long to find the correct workpiece... (you can even take it to the wood store with you). I traced the pattern on the workpiece then used my bandsaw to do the outside cuts within about a 1/16" to 1/8" of the line. As I mentioned a couple of screw hold the handle part but the cane portion is long and hardboard can flex a bit so some double sided tape will help hold that portion better. I should point out that the last few inches of the cane needs to fit the tip so the taper flattens down there. You also need to reduce the 7/8" thickness to 3/4" by that point. I opted for a long taper. I drilled out most of the material for the hand hole staying just away from the lines, a flat bottom bit can take a lot of the material away and that makes the routing operation go a lot better. I used my table mounted router to trim away the ruff cuts and clean up the edges by running against the pattern. After removing the pattern I used a round over bit to round everything then sanded to clean up. (I opted to sand the taper but there are many ways to do that.) Now came the point of picking a length... since the person I was building it for lives 400 miles away I took a guess and cut it to length. Now this might not be the best way to do it but it turns out I got away with it. As I mentioned before since I knew who this was for I selected an understated look. A simple stain sealer followed by antique oil and wax. What I did to make it look a bit older and more used was to look at my hand saws and see the wear patterns then used ruff sand paper to adjust those points followed by some light fine sanding so it would absorb more stain thus look darker like my old saws look. The saw screws I got from Ace hardware online, I drilled the holes (different sizes one each side). I was looking for a medalian but had no luck finding anyone that sells them.... if anyone does find a source please post the information. The gain of wheat I did free hand with a woodburner tip and like my saw it had that on only one side of the handle. Some saws have it on both sides and I have no idea where this idea came from. I have a pattern but after building this one I might want to make a few changes before I do any more. Some way of hanging it would be useful and as I found out a rubber tip seems to be a better choice but I like the metal look and might just do as I did and add rubber over the metal tip. I'm also looking at maybe having a cord attached that goes over the wrist in case it slips from the hand??? If you need more information just ask, I or someone else who is building these might be able to help. Ed __________________ Sometimes you get, and sometimes you get got. Last edited by reible; 07-15-2006 at 12:38 AM.
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06-18-2006, 01:24 AM	#2
reible Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,703 View reible's Gallery	Report This Post! One thing I forgot to mention was that a google search on "cane length" will provide a good starting place such as: http://www.pennyrosecanes.com/misc/canelength.html Ed __________________ Sometimes you get, and sometimes you get got. Last edited by reible; 07-15-2006 at 12:36 AM.
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06-18-2006, 09:00 AM	#3
Visteonguy Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 204 View Visteonguy's Gallery	Report This Post! Good post, with lots of good information, Ed. One suggestion I might leave as to the lenght. I made mine all about 6 or 7 inches longer then the finished product and drilled a hole in the end about3 or 4 inches long that was large enough to slip over a nail. It turned out to make a decent handle to hang onto while you are applying the finish and also left me with a way to kind of mount it to a quickly built fixture that I made out of scrap wood that would hold the canes upright while they were drying. ( I used a spray gun to apply several coats of polyurthaine ). I just pounded some 16 penny nails through some old scrap boards so they stuck up a few inches and slipped the canes over the exposed nails. Then when they were done and I knew who was getting the canes, I had a better idea of how long to cut them so they would fit the person. Since I only used the rubber tip on mine, you have about an inch or so of hidden wood under the rubber tip, You can just take a saw along and custom fit it to the person, if you need to, by cutting off an inch at a time and letting that person try it out till they are happy with the lenght. I am able to cut my own lumber so the thickness is what ever I want it to be,, and I used 1 inch thick stuff only becuase it worked with a 1/2 inch round over bit perfectly, but unless you start out with rough cut lumber, and have to go with finished lumber from a lumber yard, then your choices are more limited, 7/8's works just as well. Reible is right,, if you deviate too much from that,,, it would just not feel right. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Terry It seems like every where I go,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, there I am...
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06-18-2006, 04:23 PM	#4
reible Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,703 View reible's Gallery	Report This Post! Maybe a few words on pattern making might be in order. I think I did this pattern in maybe 20 minutes start to finish. I traced and then bandsawing close to the lines and did the necessary drilling. For the cane portion I just tacked the pattern on to a straight edge and routed it. This then required a very light sanding to remove the burr but no dimensional or finished sanding to speak of. For the handle portion I chucked up a sanding drum and did the major material removal (I used 3 sizes of drums) to the lines. As I mentioned a drill bit removed most of the hand grip material and the sanding drum the rest. The nice part of the 1/4" material is the sanding goes fast. I then went with some sand paper in hand to do any transitions and final smoothing. I like to have the sandpaper in hand as you can feel the ruff spots or any bumps or valleys. I like to use a drum the same size as the flush trim bit or bushing I'm going to use so I make sure none of the places the bit/bushing needs to go can be fully followed. If I don't have a drum that size I go up one to the size I have. Ed __________________ Sometimes you get, and sometimes you get got. Last edited by reible; 07-15-2006 at 12:34 AM.
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06-18-2006, 08:32 PM	#5
Dr.Zook Official Greeter Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Lebanon, Ohio "USA" First Name: Dave or "Doc" Posts: 4,678 View Dr.Zook's Gallery	Report This Post! Thanks Ed for the post. Thanks Ed. I take back MOST of what I said about you, but not all. LOL __________________ Dave the "Doctor" In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood. Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
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06-18-2006, 10:26 PM	#6
reible Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 1,703 View reible's Gallery	Report This Post! [QUOTE=Dr.Zook]Thanks Ed. I take back MOST of what I said about you, but not all. LOL [/quote] Are you taking back the good things you said or the bad things???? Hope this gets you and a lot of others out in the shop making one of these great projects. And I'm looking forward to seeing some photos in the Show N' Tell area. Ed __________________ Sometimes you get, and sometimes you get got. Last edited by reible; 07-15-2006 at 12:33 AM.
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06-27-2006, 06:35 AM	#10
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,372 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Ed, I have an idea for your mother in laws cane. Make it look like a scythe. A short wooden "blade" should be a good shape to grip, and there is the added benefit of mother in law / grim reaper jokes to share and enjoy. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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