ironhat

I built a router table extension for my Rigid 3650 out of Baltic Birch and found to my dismay that it isn't flat. I added stiffiners to nearly the entire back using glue and screws. Now, I have a really heavy, uneven table! So, at 1/64th" low at center (where the router lift is located) should I remove it and take to a furniture shop and ask them to run it through a drum sander to flatten it?
TIA for any suggestions,
Chiz

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bobj3

Hi Ironhat

If you can get it done for free it's worth a try BUT if the under side is out of plum also well you may just want to start over and just use the one you have now for a work bench.
Most wood shops don't like to see screws in stock that they are going to run under a belt sander, big belts are not cheap..

Bj

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Bob J.

Router is still my name

Try this first
That's my first table top. too much clamp pressure around and not much in the middle.

Router is still my name

didn't load the pic.

Mike

Chiz, there is a simple solution that will work for you. Get a Rousseau mounting plate and install it in your table. Rousseau plates have a very slight convex surface that ensures the bit is at a uniform height as the wood passes it. Rousseau plates are also larger than some others, and this will eliminate some of your sag problem too. I know this sounds like it is compounding the problem but it really works.
The Shopnotes table I built uses 3/4" plywood topped with 1/2" of hardboard to help it keep it's shape. Wrap this with hardwood for stiffness, then a layer of laminate top and bottom to help prevent movement. My table has stayed flat. I installed a Rousseau plate which at the time was the best deal going, and I am very happy with it. Norm used a Rousseau plate for 10 years on the NYW in his origonal table. This is one way that works for solving your problem. Some people will tell you it doesn't make sense and that Rousseau plates are a bad idea. In fact, Rousseau sells more mounting plates than anyone else.

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Mike
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bennybbc

chiz, you really need a flat table and using a fix in the form of a certain router plate isn't the best way to go in my opinion. Why not just make it flat to begin with? Start over and use MDF instead of plywood. I've yet to see any quality of plywood that is consistantly as flat as MDF is. Then laminate it with some Formica type material. On mine I used two 3/4" pieces of MDF along with laminating both sides. Then I made sure it would never warp or sag by using some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle iron in sort of an, "H" pattern on the bottom. I was able to shim between the angle and the table to get the table top so that it's as dead flat as I can measure. I then put a frame of hardwood around the edge and stuck it between the rails of my table saw fence. It might sound complicated but it was really very simple and this way I was able to use a dead-flat router plate from Woodhaven and everything is perfect. I've kept a heavy Freud FT2000 router in the plate for several years now and the table and plate are still as flat as the day I built it. If it ever does change though, it's adjustable by either turning the appropriate angle iron bolts or changing the shims. The Woodhaven plate is a good buy and their method of supporting the plate and adjusting it's height is the best available in my opinion and it makes the install very easy too.

Bruce

jnam

Could you post a link to the Woodhaven plate?

bobj3

Hi jnam

Here's just two of many

http://www.shop.com/op/~JessEm_Rout_...2?sourceid=298
http://www.shop.com/op/aprod-p181638...ver?sourceid=3

Bj

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

bennybbc

Mike

There are many ideas on what works best for a mounting plate. Here is a comparison of some popular plates:
Woodhaven: 7-3/4 x 10-1/4 x 3/8 phenolic. Max opening = 3-5/8; mounts 1-3/16 PC style guide bushings; Replacement and blank inserts available to drill to additional opening sizes. Note:You can't mount a Porter Cable 7518/19, or many other routers, to this plate. $49 @ Woodhaven.
Rousseau: 9 x 12 x 3/8 phenolic; Max opening = 3-7/8; mounts 1-3/16 PC style guide bushings; Replacement inserts available. Mounts all routers. This plate is slightly convex to allow for minor irregularities, all other plates are flat. $42 @ Woodcraft.
Router Workshop: 11 x 11 x 1/4 phenolic; Max opening 1-1/2; Mounts 1-1/2 RW style guide bushings; mounts all routers. Plate can be ordered with 3-1/8 max opening and/or with built in vacuum ports. $37.95-44.95 @ Oak Park.
MLCS: flat phenolic copy of the Rousseau plate = $34.95 @ MLCS
Aluminum plate same dimensions as Rousseau plate except 3-1/4 max opening = $64.95 @ MLCS.
Rockler: 9 x 13 x 1/4 aluminum; max opening = 3-1/4; Delrin inserts can be drilled to size needed. Mounts all routers. $69.99 @ Rockler.

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