Canvas Stretcher Frame Joint - Page 2 - Router Forums

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 04:09 PM
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Super nice setup you made yourself. Great work.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 08:53 AM
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Have a look at a Woodrat. The Amazing WoodRat Makes Any Woodworking Joint

They are made in the UK and s/h ones are usually available off eBay. They are very good at complex joints. I think you can download a video off their website. You could also throw it open on their forum which is accessible off their website. You'll get specialised advice off users and the designer there.

Cheers

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 02:12 PM
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Here is an excellent tutorial on how to make a mitered bridle joint:
Scott Hutton: Mitered bridle joint

Hopefully that leads you in the right direction.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-21-2011, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooney1111 View Post
Hi there everybody, this is my first post so hope I have put it in the right place! I need to make a special type of mitered tenon joint in a standard profile which is used to make frames to stretch canvas prints. Hopefully I have attached pictures of the joint and wonder if there is a fairly easy solution for low production runs. At the moment I have to cut them by hand at about half an hour a piece! The main cuts are 45 degrees and the other about 80 degrees to allow for the insertion of a wedge which allows the canvas to be tensioned after stretching. Any help much appreciated.
Wow, thank you everybody for your replies which I am now digesting and investigating. I have also, as suggested, posted on the WoodRat forum as this looks like a low cost possibility.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 02:37 PM
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Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo~!! !

The canvass is the issue. Start from there.
The Frame has to be loose pieces because they may need to be moved later on because the canvass goes slack.

You can make the frame fixed with glued or pinned joints, but the canvass may go slack and ruin the painting or make it difficult for the artist to use it in the first place.

Check out this video He's a bit goofy but he does a great job explaining it
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 02:58 PM
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CR1; that thread was from 2011... just guessing but the original poster hasn't been here for awhile (or at least that I can recall).
But always good to refresh some of these older questions; I certainly learned something new.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 12:48 PM
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I think the place to start is to buy a set of stretcher bars and study it first hand until you can visualize the joint. Here is a very inexpensive set on Amazon for that purpose https://www.amazon.com/Masterpiece-S...stretcher+bars. While there, check for large quantities of standard sizes, it is probably as cheap as making your own or standard sized canvases.

I would like to make these in batches, since most of my wife's paintings are 16x20, but since this is an end joint, once you master it, the "rails and stiles" can be any length. Looks like everything is in 1/8th increments with a little plane or router work to put an edge to set back the canvas from the frame. I'd want to work out some sort of jig to space the blade and fence precisely, and use a standard procedure to make all the same cuts at the same time. This could be a simple stack of spacers. I see that this is a loose joint and that wedges do the stretching work.

You'd apply the stretched canvas using a canvas stretcher tool then do more stretching with water, and then finally, re-stretch with the wedges. Some of the spacing may depend on the width of the frame, or perhaps for oversized canvases, the thickness.

I'm going to go ahead and follow my own advice and order a sample now. The video above was very helpful on placing the wedges. I think it is more economical to order batches of prefabricated pieces for standard sized paintings, and save making for oversized and odd sized canvases.

Thanks for posting this string, I have a long roll of medium weight canvas I have just been hesitating to start using over this very issue. Here are a couple of links for canvas stretcher bars, at least a place to start.
Stretcher Bar Warehouse: High Quality - Wholesale Pricing
https://imageworkssupply.com/stretcher-bars.html
BEST Artists' Stretcher Bars and Cross Braces - Jerry's Artarama
I suspect by the time you buy, mill and cut your own you're out more than these in bulk will cost. Hand made for large sizes makes some sense, but not necessarily for standard sizes.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post

Way cool looking jig~!! I would very much like to see a video of it in use and the result
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
CR1; that thread was from 2011... .
Yah I know. I have a grand daughter who is showing enormous talent and I'd like to get her in the shop and stretcher frame making might be just the ticket. So I went on a tour of You Tube and found the usual plethora of ignoramuses posting tutorials with Glued up joints. Then stumbled across the whole key thing and finally put it all together and realized that the joint is no simple slap dash thing - - Plus I found this thread.

AND THEN THEN THEN THEN ARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH my lovely daughter tells me about closing out an estate of an elder she knew who was an artist AND he hand built his own frames the old way and as luck would have it she didn't take any pictures of his set up before taking it all apart and selling it off so I don't know what the guy did to solve that puzzle

I'll approach it from a machine perspective he, did it by hand


So even though it's a 2011 thread it appears to be very relevant.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 11:40 AM
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Lots of old threads get dug up and some get just as much mileage the 2nd or even 3rd time around.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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