Canvas Stretcher Frame Joint - Router Forums

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Canvas Stretcher Frame Joint

Hi there everybody, this is my first post so hope I have put it in the right place! I need to make a special type of mitered tenon joint in a standard profile which is used to make frames to stretch canvas prints. Hopefully I have attached pictures of the joint and wonder if there is a fairly easy solution for low production runs. At the moment I have to cut them by hand at about half an hour a piece! The main cuts are 45 degrees and the other about 80 degrees to allow for the insertion of a wedge which allows the canvas to be tensioned after stretching. Any help much appreciated.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 11:26 AM
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A tenoning jig and dado set would be my best guess. I would think it will still take some effort to make them.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 01:14 PM
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looks like a job for a CnC

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
A tenoning jig and dado set would be my best guess. I would think it will still take some effort to make them.
Hi there, thanks for that but this is where my almost comlete ignorance of routing in general kicks in! What is a tenoning jig or dado set. Can you give me any links to websites where I may find them. I appreciate it may still be a time consuming solution but if the result is good then I will be happy as this will only be for low production. Once again thanks for your reply.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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looks like a job for a CnC
As I understand it CnC is a computerised approach and as such probably not cost effective for low production output but any information to the contrary would be appreciated. Many thanks.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooney1111 View Post
Hi there, thanks for that but this is where my almost comlete ignorance of routing in general kicks in! What is a tenoning jig or dado set. Can you give me any links to websites where I may find them. I appreciate it may still be a time consuming solution but if the result is good then I will be happy as this will only be for low production. Once again thanks for your reply.
Tenon jig on a table saw:



Dado blade:

Dado Blades

I don't think you need a dado blade, but it would make the deep mortise doable in one pass. Multiple passes would do it with a saw blade.

One side of the miters could be cut with a saw blade and jig. The other side with a router table a jig.

These are probably made with a special cutter at a factory in two stages.
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Last edited by Tempest; 11-14-2011 at 10:26 AM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 10:55 AM
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Hi Tempest

You can't use dado blades with that fixture unless you rework the fixture 1st. you will see 4 holes drilled and taped out but they can't be used the norm but you can drill some more holes up higher to hold a backer board to ,then you can use the dado blade set and make one pass but with care but the backer board must be replace all the time so to say make many of them..

Done this many times



===





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Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
Tenon jig on a table saw:



Dado blade:

Dado Blades

I don't think you need a dado blade, but it would make the deep mortise doable in one pass. Multiple passes would do it with a saw blade.

One side of the miters could be cut with a saw blade and jig. The other side with a router table a jig.

These are probably made with a special cutter at a factory in two stages.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 01:53 PM
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CnCs are very expensive. That being said, you could probably sub the work out to a mill. Failing that you could do it with several different passes on a router table with a verity of bits.
I would start with a rabbiting bit and cut a rabbit out of a long piece of stock. (that would be the bottom most groove. I would then flip the stock over and change to a 3/4 " dato bit and with several pass remove the material on the top except for what you need for the 1/4" round. I would then cut the pieces to length with either a miter box or on cross cut sled on a table saw. I would then cut the next to slots with a slot cutter on the router table. I would install a bearing follow round over bit and cut the 1/4 round. Finally I would use a miter jig and cut the miters on a table saw.

I would recommend you use a soft to medium hardwood for this not pine. Try Poplar or if that is not hard enough, maple.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
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Hi Tempest

You can't use dado blades with that fixture unless you rework the fixture 1st. you will see 4 holes drilled and taped out but they can't be used the norm but you can drill some more holes up higher to hold a backer board to ,then you can use the dado blade set and make one pass but with care but the backer board must be replace all the time so to say make many of them..

Done this many times



===
Fair enough, never used one like that. Just trying to show him what it is. I would make a custom fixture similar to that to do the work.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 04:05 PM
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Hi Tempest

Got ya, I did that see below

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-joint-472.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-joint-471.jpg



===

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
Fair enough, never used one like that. Just trying to show him what it is. I would make a custom fixture similar to that to do the work.

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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