|This is a discussion on Routing router plate opening in router table top within the Table-mounted Routing forums, part of the Router Forums category; ...|
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|12-20-2011, 05:31 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Iíve got the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and I bought the template to rout out the opening (3/4Ē MDF) in a custom top Iím making. The plate is 3/8Ē so I went to make a set up for doing this today and got stuck. I have a Makita RF1101 plunge router (the kit with the plunge/fixed base) and I set it up to route the outline around the template. Iím using the 1/2Ē pattern router bit from Rockler to do this (Item #33536).
So, I set my plunge router so that the bit is touching a flat surface then went on to make an extra setting from there for 1 1/8Ē based on pressing the router down on the plate + MDF template. However, the bit will not reach all the way down to the top of the table so therefore I cannot route that opening properly. Before you chastise me Iím new to woodworking as some of you may already know based on my previous posts on here so please, if someone could explain to me what the proper setup for this would be thatíd be greatly appreciated.
Iíve thought about going to Rockler and picking up the Router Xtreme Xtension but thatís $70 (I do have a 20% off coupon) and Iíd rather not have to plunk down the cash for that. Should I be purchasing a different bit thats longer? Am I doing something wrong? Is my router just incapable of making that deep a cut?
|12-23-2011, 12:40 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Boy, I am right confused with you. I thought the usual 9x12 plate insert had to be cut short each way with something like a jig saw. Then the template you bought would rout the lip for the inset. Tha;s how i did it. Am I not seeing something.
|12-24-2011, 12:10 PM||#4 (permalink)|
@Cherryville Chuck: No, it was bottoming out on the pillars that the plunge mechanism travels on.
I actually got it figured out. I drilled a hole close to where I was routing and just used my fixed based with a Freud flush trim bit I found in my laminate trimmer that was long enough to JUST get the plate in. I then realized it wasn't deep enough by probably 1/8" so I went ahead and put the original Rockler bit I was going to use in my trim router and took off the template (since I already had the outline shape I wanted on the tabletop) and routed a bit extra out so now its perfect.
I'm now in the process of adding a bunch of coats of polyurethane to harden that surface up a bit (the inner lip) so that when I'm using my leveling screws it doesn't damage it as much as if it was just bare MDF.
That being said, if anyone has any tips on hardening the MDF lip so that the set screws that are used to level the plate don't eat at it as badly I'd greatly like to hear them.
|12-26-2011, 01:56 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2010
First Name: Charles
You could glue small pieces of countertop laminate where the screws go.
Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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