Hi Guitar Demon:
Welcome to the Router Forums!
I would like to add to Bob's comments.
It's hard to beat the MDF stock, it's flat from the get go and it's not to high in the price, with 2ea. 3/4" thick boards
Absolutely! Two layers of good MDF, glued together, to form one top with a minimum total thickness of 1 inch is a great starting point. Make sure you support the MDF well when doing the glue-up. The support should maintain the flatness.
and a bit of Johnson floor Paste wax it's good to go and you can re coat from time to time if you want to..
A big drawback to MDF is it is hydrophilic -- water-loving. It absorbs water and swells. Not good! So, one needs to seal the MDF. Quite a few people, like Bob, Part Warner, John White use a good quality paste wax, such as Johnsons. Other people, like Bill Hylton prefer to encase the MDF with some sort water-barrier material. A common one is laminate.
and you don't need a trim board around the top of the table after all it's all wood..
Correct, you don't need
to. However, for some of us, a good hardwood edge is desirable. For example, on my home-made table, I have a 1-1/2" square red oak edge. Accidental bumps are more forgiven on the red oak, than on MDF. Also, I have installed inserts into the red oak, to permit attaching accessories to the table top -- accessories such as t-tracks and the Incra LS positioning fence.