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| Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router. |
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| Registered User New Member | I make little (usually 6" X 4") wood boxes. My bench router is used quite a bit for chamfering, beading, etc. It's a simple affair with a fairly basic router suspended upside down under an aluminum table. It was always a pain making fine adjustments to height because the springs are strong, the positioning awkward, etc. Then I decided to be innovative . . . or crazy. I bought a small scissors jack. I secured the router table solidly to my workbench, in the process lifting it by about 4" so the "top" of the router when fully dropped would clear the top of the jack when fully collapsed. Now when I need to adjust the cutter I just slip the jack underneath the router, unlock the plunger, screw up or down as required - with no effort and complete control, lock the plunger again, slide the jack out - and I'm good to go. And all for a lot less than the price of a micro adjuster.
__________________ FoggyTown Cut to shape . . . pound to fit. |
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| Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King | You are not the first person to come up with this solution which is a very practical idea. When the time comes to replace your router most of the 2-1/4 HP "combo kits" have through the table height adjustment on the fixed base. A simple swap from this base into the plunge base lets you free hand with ease. Be sure and post photos of your boxes in the Show and Tell forum. Include information such as wood type and any special techniques you have developed.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. |
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