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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 01-02-2007, 01:31 PM   #1
Blind Bruce
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Default Now I'm scared

I just made a 3 1/2" square of poplar and ran it through all four sides using a 5/32" roman ogee bit. No problem. But when I lowered the bit to expose only the round portion to create "feet" on the bottom, the thing kicked back like a table saw when I pivoted it into the bit. The bearing was isolated and the fence tight.
What did I do wrong? Bob and Rick make it look sooooo easy.
Bruce in the Peg
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:12 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blind Bruce
I just made a 3 1/2" square of poplar and ran it through all four sides using a 5/32" roman ogee bit. No problem. But when I lowered the bit to expose only the round portion to create "feet" on the bottom, the thing kicked back like a table saw when I pivoted it into the bit. The bearing was isolated and the fence tight.
What did I do wrong? Bob and Rick make it look sooooo easy.
Bruce in the Peg
You will get a kickback if the direction of the feed is wrong or opposite of grain sometimes.
However, it is a good idea to wear a face shield. I've had few router bits break and miss my eye by inch when I wasn't using safety shields. And the stitches cost a lot more than a face shield or router.
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:24 PM   #3
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Hi Bruce

The key word may be "pivoted" into the bit.
Any time you pivot into a bit you should use a start pin/safety pin and not have the fence in play.

It sounds like you are trying to go around the corner of the sq.poplar to get the look of the feet.
If the fence is in place it will trap the stock between the bit and the fence edge or just kick it out like a table saw.

NOTE**** if you don't have a start pin you can clamp some plywood to the top right next to the bit to give you a start point.

Once your on the stock the bearing will take over and at as a guide BUT going around a corner you must take care to be on the stock 1st then move around the corner and let the bit and bearing do the work.

Bj
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:20 PM   #4
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I am not trying to go around the corner. I am beginning the cut 1/2" in fron the corner and stoping the cut 1/2" from the other edge. This leaves the impression of feet at each corner. nest ci pas?
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:37 PM   #5
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Hi Bruce

Ok Now I know what you are doing

You will need to move the fence back just a bit about a 1" or so.
Get your masking tape out and put some on the fence for a start mark and a stop mark.
This is tricky with out taking off a finger or two.
Fire up the router and move the stock to the start mark and push the stock in to the bit and move it to your left to the stop mark, pull the stock away from the fence, to you ,hold on at all time to the stock.
Then turn the stock and do the other 3 sides.
You can used a wooden clamp ,to hold the stock if you want to, this will help hold it to the router table top and keep it flat and keep your fingers out of the way.

Bj
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:03 PM   #6
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The wooden clamp sounds good.
The only wooden clamps that I have are called hand screws and are very large. They each have two long metal screws going through two parallel wooden bars. One screw is left hand thread so you need to tighten them in opposite directions. Is this what you are referring to?
Bruce
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:09 PM   #7
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Hi Bruce
Yep, that's it, they work great on the router table.

Bj
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http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

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