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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 01-25-2007, 05:01 PM   #1
glassguy1456
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Default Can I make a dado-rabbit cut in 5/8 material?

Hello,
I am working on a project that is made of 5/8 inch stock and the 2 blocks (boxes??) would lend themselves to the dado-rabbit joint. (I could of made them from 3/4 using 3/8 bit and fence) but can I make it in 5/8 stock? (I should of planed them down to 1/2 prior to final sizing but I never thought of it at the time.) They are also only 8 inches long so too short to run through thickness planer....(I feel)
If someone can help out with size & type of bit, method etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Have a good day
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:41 PM   #2
Joe Lyddon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glassguy1456
Hello,
I am working on a project that is made of 5/8 inch stock and the 2 blocks (boxes??) would lend themselves to the dado-rabbit joint. (I could of made them from 3/4 using 3/8 bit and fence) but can I make it in 5/8 stock? (I should of planed them down to 1/2 prior to final sizing but I never thought of it at the time.) They are also only 8 inches long so too short to run through thickness planer....(I feel)
If someone can help out with size & type of bit, method etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Have a good day
I would leave your material at 5/8 and merely cut 5/16 rabbets & dados using straight bits or whatever could fit.

An adjustable dado jig and 1/4" bit would handle the dados.

Rabbets are easier.

imho...
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Old 01-25-2007, 07:56 PM   #3
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Hi Guy

Here's a trick I use when I need stock that needs to be 1/2" thick and all I have is short ones. (6" to 8" long ones )

Find some 3/4" MDF ,cut it to 10" wide by 24" long, take the short stock and get the 3M double sided carpet tape out and stick it to the MDF stock (tap it with a rubber hammer to make sure it's down) , but offset it so you don't have any parts line up on ends (offset it )
Because MDF is true all you need to do is run one side in the planner, you can do 3/4" and 5/8" stock at the same time, the more the merry her but take care if you mix them ,you will need to pull the MDF out by hand until you get them all down to about 5/8" thick.
Make one or two cuts and then check the tape to make sure it's on then do some more until you get it down to size. (small cuts)

This is also a good way to make 1/8" ,5/32" 3/16", 1/4" spline stock.so you have it on hand when you need it and use up the scrap stock around the shop.

Bj
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Last edited by bobj3; 01-25-2007 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:18 PM   #4
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Bob, can I use your planer and try this out I wish i had a planer and jointer!

Corey
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:44 PM   #5
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Hi Corey

Sure any time LOL, but you know they are just a web page away you can't take it with you

Grizzly
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Last edited by bobj3; 01-25-2007 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:35 PM   #6
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Thanks Bj Let me ask you a question... I have been going back and forth on this. The problem is not much space... you have seen my shop! I do mostly small projects... boxes primarily, clock cases ... stuff like that. Which would you buy based on this and you could only get one? Planer or Jointer. Bench Top Models are all I have room for either.

Corey
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:12 PM   #7
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Hi Corey

That's a hard one ,,,,,the Planer in your case ,Grizzly or the Dewalt or Delta
list of all 3 makes below ▼ I have the Grizzly and it's great for what I do .

http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/002...3&Go.y=5&Go=Go
The reviews are good on the Grizzly and the Delta- plus it has free shipping that's a plus,about 240.oo on both.
The real key to a Planer is the Dust Collector Hood,get the chips out so they don't run over and over and they will chip the blades if you don't , I have two sets of old blades and it took me a long time to get that hint down .

Just a NOTE *** I got the Grizzly because of the rollers on the top,it's a pain to walk around the machine with the stock under your arm and the rollers on the top will let you roll the stock over the top and send it for one more pass, it's not to bad for short stock but 4ft and longer it's a pain in the butt,it can take 10 or 20 short walks to get it down to the right size and if you are doing a stack well, when your done with your little walk it's break time.


Bj
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Last edited by bobj3; 01-25-2007 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:36 PM   #8
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Thank you Bob, that gives me something to think about. Also why did you pick the planer out of the two if I can ask. I have bounced back and forth between a jointer and a planer for some time.

Corey
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:54 PM   #9
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Hi Corey

Well you want a big jointer when you get one (cast iron 4ft long) they are hard to store and have a big foot print ,I have mind on steel wheels they are hvy.suckers and hard to move around but you only have so much wall space and they take 3ft x 4ft.plus.
And the same thing about the chips as the planner, so you must have the vac. hose setup to plug it in the jointer , I have two 10ft ones(hose) I drag all over the shop because I don't want to plum in the pipe for the vac. system because I move stuff all the time in the shop.

Bj
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Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

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Old 01-25-2007, 11:15 PM   #10
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Got yah. Thanks for the help BJ.

Corey
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