bmb in ab

Regarding your sled idea, a similar sled was demonstrated at www.woodshopdemos.com, but I can't find the exact link at the moment. His sled ran in a mitre slot.

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reible

I looked at the sled idea, you still have two problems, one the bit is still pulling the wood away from the pins and second the force in the other direction pushs in to the area with the clamps which might or might not be 90deg to the first cut........

I would think about the jigsaw to square the stock then joint to clean it up.....

I didn't want to get into the safety part of this but, this method is a major NO-NO. You can hurt youself, the router, the bit and you just don't want to do it that way. We would like you to keep visiting the forum so please don't do this......

I'm sorry if this seems a little strong but following "Safety First" is job one in the shop.

Ed

ktritz

The pins are there just to index the width of the piece. The toggle hold-down clamps are designed to keep the piece from being pulled by the bit. If you think the clamps will not be able to do this, then I agree that this isn't a good solution either.

I have a pretty decent jigsaw, just picked up the new Bosch barrel-grip, and it did a very good job of squaring the MDF for my router table, so this may very well be the way to go. I wonder if it would be feasible to design a table-mount for the jigsaw and turn it in to a poor man's bandsaw.

Be all means, get in to the safety part. I would much rather learn from you guys here than by losing a body part or two.

Thanks for your advice.

Kevin

reible

Kevin,

The second method you showed is safer then the first, at least in the second case the wood is not trapped in between the fence and the bit. If things were to go wrong something has to give, who knows what is the weakest link. At least in the second case the sled can just move away from the edge. You will also need to cover the router bit somehow......

I guess if I were to do something like you have shown I would 1) move the clamps to the edge with the pins to try and keep the wood pressed to the pins. 2) I would locate a pin where the clamps were instead of wood. The pin would be as close to the cutting edge as it could be, this makes the issue of being out of square less of an issue. 3) add sandpaper under where the wood sits.

This still leaves how to adjust the width of stock so you can make a light pass then take another, much less a bunch of different size stock.....

The router table might make a fine saw table if the jigsaw has some mounting holes in the base or if you can make an easy safe way to hold it in place. If the table has the pop out plate like on the router workshop one you could make an interchangeable plate for the jigsaw.

Ed

FordPrefect

I think reible may have a good idea. Would it also be a good idea to put a fence over the riser plate so that only a small part of the bit is exposed. That way you get the safety of reduced passes and a fence, but you still get to set the width of the stock. With some minor modifications, this is no different than how Bob and Rick use templates to cut their patterns.

ejant

Looks like in the second one as it gets past the rear pin the wood is going airborn.

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