Register Now!

beemerbob · 04-21-2007, 12:54 PM

I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board.

I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit?

I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table.

Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence?

Joe Lyddon · 04-21-2007, 01:39 PM

Can you post a pic to give a better idea?

I'm not sure of it's orientation from the 'users' standpoint.

You can get a longer piece of straight wood, mdf, etc. and just clamp it across the table... like they do it on The Router Workshop.

beemerbob · 04-21-2007, 02:14 PM

Here is a side and top view of my setup.

**challagan** · 04-21-2007, 02:16 PM

I am not sure I understand the problem here. Are you using the front edge of the table or the back side with hole on the fence? I would get one of the longer fences from oak park and mount it as you have and use the front edge of the fence on the front edge of the table saw. The oak park fences are easy to bury the bit and a custom fit. Just swing the fence into the bit and clamp it back down on the other end. Just have to change the direction of feed of the stock.

Corey

**bobj3** · 04-21-2007, 02:22 PM

Hi Bob

This is what I would

1st. find some MDF or some good and straight 2 x 4 as long as your table,then take a jig saw/hand saw/hole saw and cut a kotch "starter hole" for the size of bit you are going to use.
Then clamp one board to the table top BUT but DON'T use the piloted part of the bit just use it to zero the bit to the fence,with a straight edge.
That's to say DON'T let it rub on the stock when you pass it by.
Then once you have the fence in place clamp the 2nd board down to the table and use it for the feather board so to speak, then once you have clamped down fire up the router and make your pass by the bit.

It's best to make a pass or two, then you will have a nice clean edge on the stock, this can be done by just moving the fence in just a bit on the 1st pass and then reset the two fences on the last pass.

BUT don't move the bit up or down just the fence...

Bj

-------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by beemerbob

I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board.

I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit?

I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table.

Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence?

Woodnut65 · 04-21-2007, 02:45 PM

Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit. I would have left a space between the saw and the router table so a clamp could be used. You could also get a straight board and mount it along the length of the table. Holes for the bit and the chips from the router can be drilled using a drill press and a fostner bit. Good luck.. Woodnut65

beemerbob · 04-21-2007, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodnut65

Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit. I would have left a space between the saw and the router table so a clamp could be used. You could also get a straight board and mount it along the length of the table. Holes for the bit and the chips from the router can be drilled using a drill press and a fostner bit. Good luck.. Woodnut65

I think you were looking at the back edge of the fence. The 'working' side of the fence shows a lot of wear and tear and that is the side I used.

beemerbob · 04-21-2007, 02:54 PM

Bobj3. I routed the edges of four MDF doors and they came out clean as could be.

beemerbob · 04-21-2007, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by challagan

I would get one of the longer fences from oak park and mount it as you have and use the front edge of the fence on the front edge of the table saw. Corey

I bought a new standard fence and a planer fence recently. Didn't see the 'long' fence, but I'll go back and look for it.

**bobj3** · 04-21-2007, 05:58 PM

Bob

see below

Bj

04-21-2007, 12:54 PM	#1
beemerbob Registered User Dedicated Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 30 View beemerbob's Gallery	Report This Post! Fence for Oak-Park Table I mount the table on the end of my table saw. If I want to rout a long piece - 16x36 inch door for a cabinet - I have to move the saw so I can use the Oak-Park Fence. I have to retract the TS blade and remove the blade guard. This doesn't leave a lot of room for mounting a feather board. I could use a straight edge going the length of the table top, but then how do you make a starter hole in the fence for a piloted roundover bit? I don't have room in my garage for a dedicated router table. Does anyone have a plan, idea or a suggestion for a router fence? __________________ Bob from Northwest Florida
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 01:39 PM	#2
Joe Lyddon Banned Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alta Loma, CA USA Posts: 2,168 View Joe Lyddon's Gallery	Report This Post! Can you post a pic to give a better idea? I'm not sure of it's orientation from the 'users' standpoint. You can get a longer piece of straight wood, mdf, etc. and just clamp it across the table... like they do it on The Router Workshop.
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 02:14 PM	#3
beemerbob Registered User Dedicated Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 30 View beemerbob's Gallery	Report This Post! Here is a side and top view of my setup. __________________ Bob from Northwest Florida
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 02:16 PM	#4
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! I am not sure I understand the problem here. Are you using the front edge of the table or the back side with hole on the fence? I would get one of the longer fences from oak park and mount it as you have and use the front edge of the fence on the front edge of the table saw. The oak park fences are easy to bury the bit and a custom fit. Just swing the fence into the bit and clamp it back down on the other end. Just have to change the direction of feed of the stock. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/ Last edited by challagan; 04-21-2007 at 02:25 PM.
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 02:45 PM	#6
Woodnut65 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 343 View Woodnut65's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi: Here's my two cents worth. From looking at the pictures the fence seems to be on the wrong side of the bit. I would have left a space between the saw and the router table so a clamp could be used. You could also get a straight board and mount it along the length of the table. Holes for the bit and the chips from the router can be drilled using a drill press and a fostner bit. Good luck.. Woodnut65
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 02:54 PM	#8
beemerbob Registered User Dedicated Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 30 View beemerbob's Gallery	Report This Post! Bobj3. I routed the edges of four MDF doors and they came out clean as could be. __________________ Bob from Northwest Florida
	Top - Reply with Quote

04-21-2007, 05:58 PM	#10
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,256 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Bob see below Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 04-21-2007 at 08:55 PM.
	Top - Reply with Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Mounting an Oak Park Box Jig on Non Oak Park Table	challagan	Project Plans and How To	53	09-17-2008 11:09 PM
Oak Park Router Table	B_Rod	Starting Off	27	02-20-2008 07:31 PM
Oak Park table	old folks	Table-mounted Routing	4	08-07-2007 12:08 PM
Design of Oak Park Router Table	susserj	Introductions	6	07-06-2007 05:58 PM