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lablover · 05-22-2007, 08:26 PM

I'm on the process of finishing my router table so I can have a good place to work on my basement bar doors. Anyway, I want to make shaker style doors with 1/4" panels. rails and styles will be 3/4 X 1 1/2 . What I need to figure out is the size of the rails and styles in relation to the door or drawer opening. I will make the door and a few drawers for my router table to practice but don't want to waste too much maple

Where do I start? The CMT set I got gives no instructions on set up etc. Do I loose some width when I cope the rails?

Aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I'm so confused.

I hought I found a place early this week on line expalining it all but cant seem to find it

Joe

**challagan** · 05-22-2007, 08:36 PM

Hi Joe. Yes you will lose width due to the copes and tongues meshing together (don't ask me how I know that) I believe usually on these sets made for 3/4 stock the lost amount on each end of the rail is 3/8 so you need to add 3/4 additional to the length of the rails. I hope this helps and I hope this is the correct info

If not, I am sure one of our experts will help you out on this.

Corey

lablover · 05-22-2007, 08:45 PM

corey

No way it's that easy....Can't wait to give it a try...Can't thank ya enough

Joe

**bobj3** · 05-22-2007, 09:10 PM

Hi Lablover

If you are using the CMT set you need to use the 7/16" rule , that's to say for ea. cut you are going to sub. +7/16"
Let's do a door ... 10" x 14" ,, better yet open the cat. you got from sommerfeld tools and in the from part of the book it will show you how to cut the parts to the cabinet door.
All the door parts are set on the 2 7/16" rule with the CMT sets.
That's to say all the parts are 2 7/16 " wide.

Some of the best videos I have come by are the ones that Marc Somnerfeld made and I would suggest b/4 you start cutting the Maple you get one or two of them they are that good and will save you big money in the long run.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/list.asp?d=118&p=1

BUT if you don't want to send off for the videos or you don't want to wait use the links below it will show you how -to - do -it plus a link for door software ,try it but don't buy it yet.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/kitc-5.htm
http://www.softwareforwoodworkers.com/html/doors.html

Bj

lablover · 05-22-2007, 09:14 PM

don't have the catalog to look at..guess i can order one. Now I'm confused again..Yes..I will look into the videos as well.

BTW..Want to practice the rails and styles on MDF..Is that a bad thing for a pricy set of bits? Not suggestred. I don't want to toast the bits before I cut maple

**challagan** · 05-22-2007, 09:28 PM

Lablover, sorry if I steered yah wrong which it appears to be the case. I am confused as well. I guess the 2 7/16 is the standard as I measured my doors on the cabinet I made and my rail and stiles are exactly 2 7/16 wide stock, 3/4 thick. The actual inset is 3/8 of an inch on each end of the rail so I think you actually lose 3/4 inch per door off of your butted up measurements. I know that as I measured them as well. Oh well......

Corey

Corey

**bobj3** · 05-22-2007, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lablover

don't have the catalog to look at..guess i can order one. Now I'm confused again..Yes..I will look into the videos as well.

BTW..Want to practice the rails and styles on MDF..Is that a bad thing for a pricy set of bits? Not suggestred. I don't want to toast the bits before I cut maple

MDF will work great for the test setup or some pine will do also.

besure to check out the links I posted..

They will help..
Here's a small tip do both rails the same time and then rip to right size and the same for the styles

(cope cuts and pattern cuts)

Bj

lablover · 05-22-2007, 10:02 PM

Corey..No worries

Bob..Funny, one of your links to woodshop demos is how I based my router table top. No plate..just a round insert. I think it's gonna work out fine. I'll read up on the links you posted as well. I have to see if I understand how the software works

Joe

**bobj3** · 05-22-2007, 10:25 PM

Hi Corey

Some are made that way (3/8") so the panel can fload and so you can use the round balls or the flat insert to keep the door from making a noise when you close them or so they don't rattle or split the panel if it gets glued in place at the corners

But the 7/16" is the rule for most R & S sets but not all

Just a NOte*** Marc Sommerfeld as a new line of bits out and he did change the slot to 1/2" DEEP on most of the new bits to make it the same as the shaper cutters and to make it stronger joint and easyer to get the right size on the door parts. ( ea. end add 1/2" to it)...for the cuts.

Bj

**challagan** · 05-22-2007, 11:14 PM

Thanks BJ, I guess I am not nuts, but I did find it funny that the width of my door stock was 2 7/16. By the way this is an old set I have had for about 18 years and used once... the only doors I have done. Used it on a 1 1/2 HP craftsman router with a speed controller and it was a 1/4 in shank... set was from Eagle America where I used to buy all my bits in the old days

Those were the days when my shop looked like the best of Craftsman Bench Tools Book

8 inch bench top table saw, every router contraption that Craftsman sold ....including that damn bisckit attachment....hated that but I kind of liked that mill works kit. Wish I still had that one... used it a lot on clocks. ok... I am rambling again...sorry ...to much coffee tonight!!!!!!!!!!

Corey

05-22-2007, 08:26 PM	#1
lablover Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 127 View lablover's Gallery	Report This Post! Calculating door sizes I'm on the process of finishing my router table so I can have a good place to work on my basement bar doors. Anyway, I want to make shaker style doors with 1/4" panels. rails and styles will be 3/4 X 1 1/2 . What I need to figure out is the size of the rails and styles in relation to the door or drawer opening. I will make the door and a few drawers for my router table to practice but don't want to waste too much maple Where do I start? The CMT set I got gives no instructions on set up etc. Do I loose some width when I cope the rails? Aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I'm so confused. I hought I found a place early this week on line expalining it all but cant seem to find it Joe
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05-22-2007, 08:36 PM	#2
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Joe. Yes you will lose width due to the copes and tongues meshing together (don't ask me how I know that) I believe usually on these sets made for 3/4 stock the lost amount on each end of the rail is 3/8 so you need to add 3/4 additional to the length of the rails. I hope this helps and I hope this is the correct info If not, I am sure one of our experts will help you out on this. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/ Last edited by challagan; 05-22-2007 at 08:46 PM.
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05-22-2007, 08:45 PM	#3
lablover Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 127 View lablover's Gallery	Report This Post! corey No way it's that easy....Can't wait to give it a try...Can't thank ya enough Joe
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05-22-2007, 09:10 PM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,256 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Lablover If you are using the CMT set you need to use the 7/16" rule , that's to say for ea. cut you are going to sub. +7/16" Let's do a door ... 10" x 14" ,, better yet open the cat. you got from sommerfeld tools and in the from part of the book it will show you how to cut the parts to the cabinet door. All the door parts are set on the 2 7/16" rule with the CMT sets. That's to say all the parts are 2 7/16 " wide. Some of the best videos I have come by are the ones that Marc Somnerfeld made and I would suggest b/4 you start cutting the Maple you get one or two of them they are that good and will save you big money in the long run. http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/list.asp?d=118&p=1 BUT if you don't want to send off for the videos or you don't want to wait use the links below it will show you how -to - do -it plus a link for door software ,try it but don't buy it yet. http://www.woodshopdemos.com/kitc-5.htm http://www.softwareforwoodworkers.com/html/doors.html Bj Attached Thumbnails __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 05-22-2007 at 09:27 PM.
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05-22-2007, 09:14 PM	#5
lablover Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 127 View lablover's Gallery	Report This Post! don't have the catalog to look at..guess i can order one. Now I'm confused again..Yes..I will look into the videos as well. BTW..Want to practice the rails and styles on MDF..Is that a bad thing for a pricy set of bits? Not suggestred. I don't want to toast the bits before I cut maple
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05-22-2007, 09:28 PM	#6
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Lablover, sorry if I steered yah wrong which it appears to be the case. I am confused as well. I guess the 2 7/16 is the standard as I measured my doors on the cabinet I made and my rail and stiles are exactly 2 7/16 wide stock, 3/4 thick. The actual inset is 3/8 of an inch on each end of the rail so I think you actually lose 3/4 inch per door off of your butted up measurements. I know that as I measured them as well. Oh well...... Corey Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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05-22-2007, 10:02 PM	#8
lablover Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 127 View lablover's Gallery	Report This Post! Corey..No worries Bob..Funny, one of your links to woodshop demos is how I based my router table top. No plate..just a round insert. I think it's gonna work out fine. I'll read up on the links you posted as well. I have to see if I understand how the software works Joe
	Top - Reply with Quote

05-22-2007, 10:25 PM	#9
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,256 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Corey Some are made that way (3/8") so the panel can fload and so you can use the round balls or the flat insert to keep the door from making a noise when you close them or so they don't rattle or split the panel if it gets glued in place at the corners But the 7/16" is the rule for most R & S sets but not all Just a NOte*** Marc Sommerfeld as a new line of bits out and he did change the slot to 1/2" DEEP on most of the new bits to make it the same as the shaper cutters and to make it stronger joint and easyer to get the right size on the door parts. ( ea. end add 1/2" to it)...for the cuts. Bj __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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05-22-2007, 11:14 PM	#10
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Thanks BJ, I guess I am not nuts, but I did find it funny that the width of my door stock was 2 7/16. By the way this is an old set I have had for about 18 years and used once... the only doors I have done. Used it on a 1 1/2 HP craftsman router with a speed controller and it was a 1/4 in shank... set was from Eagle America where I used to buy all my bits in the old days Those were the days when my shop looked like the best of Craftsman Bench Tools Book 8 inch bench top table saw, every router contraption that Craftsman sold ....including that damn bisckit attachment....hated that but I kind of liked that mill works kit. Wish I still had that one... used it a lot on clocks. ok... I am rambling again...sorry ...to much coffee tonight!!!!!!!!!! Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
	Top - Reply with Quote

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