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| Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router. |
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| Registered User New Member | Hi folks, as anyone can see from my 'intro' I am unused to woodwork and am not at all comfortable with a router. I have a Ryobi 10" saw that will accept an extension to accommodate a router. So my son bought one for me and I fitted a light duty router to it. It is difficult to get at for adjusting the height of the bit or even changing bits. I put most of this down to the fact that I am not skilled with this configuration and figure that I should/could become more accomplished IF I start using the darn thing more. Anyway, I thought perhaps others in the group have gone this way and could give me some pointers. I have a Powr-Kraft 6" jointer that is just occupying space and thought I might be better off to build my own router table rather than struggle with this. Suggections and encouragement please. matelot |
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| Banned Supreme Forum King | Quote:
Yes, it's much better to have a separate router table... If I were to do it now, I would get the Oak Park kit http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.htm...--&product=620 ... I also have their Spacer Fences for box joints... very good stuff! ... the table top is predrilled for all of their jigs, etc...!! Hope this helps... | |
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| Marine Engineer Forum King | Joe, I echo your opinion. I had a BT3000 a while back, and the problem I had with using the extension wing as a router table was the ribbed top. It works OK for straight line stuff, but as soon as you start trying to do anything with a curve, it will snag or scratch the wood. I now use an oak park top on steel frame, and I love it. http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...e-upgrade.html
__________________ Doug 1 John 1:9 Last edited by kp91; 05-31-2007 at 08:53 AM. |
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| | #4 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Hi: I think Joe is right on with a suggestion to go to Oak-Park, and check out what they have. I have the system and it's real good. You could buy the table top and plate for a bigger router if you want, or one for the router you already have. They give you a plan with the top, that shows how to build the cabinet to put it on. I would also get some tapes of some of the Router Workshop programs with Bob and Rick, it will give you pointers on how todo router work. Good luck. Woodnut65 |
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| | #5 |
| Registered User Jr. Member | Thomas, If you can't find the answers to all of your questions about the Ryobi BT3 on theis link, then there is no answer for your question. Like this forum you will find some of the nicest most helpful people you may never meet. They are dedicated to this saw and I am too. bt3central Regards, Grant
__________________ Thanks, Grant "gad5264" GO BUCKEYES!! |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User New Member | Hi Folks, thanks to all who responded to me on this subject. I am pretty sure I WILL build a seperate router table, I have enough material in the shop already except for the phenolic which I can obtain cheap at an outlet a few miles away. I also remember that I have a 30 x 24 x 1" cutout from a counter top that has the formica(?) covering on it which should do for a start. As for the Ryobi table saw, if there is any fault I can find with it it would be the mitre fence and the sliding bed. I conquered the mitre fence problem by buying a new fence which fits tight in the grooves between the main table and the LH extension. The sliding bed ticks me off because I am forever catching my hips on it as I move around the saw!! I would like to say a hearty thanks for making me feel welcome to this forum. I will certainly look forward to all the tips, tricks and advice I can glean from the members. Tom |
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