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Fence to Bit distance setting

This is a discussion on Fence to Bit distance setting within the Table-mounted Routing forums, part of the Routers category; Good day As you noticed, I made my router table fence with a T so ...


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Old 06-25-2007, 07:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Good day

As you noticed, I made my router table fence with a T so it will be set parallel the the table edge and I said that it's very important for me...

On this post you will see why it's so important for me...

You can measure the distance with the same set-up using ruler but I prefer the caliper even though it requires some calculation.

The calculation is very simple...lets say that I want to meke a slot of 3/8" (with 3/8" bit) that will start 5/8" trom the fence.
I just add the desired distance from the fence (5/8") and the bit diameter (3/8") =1".
I set the fence so the caliper shows 1" and go...If I want to enlarge the slot to 3/4", I just add another 3/8" after the first pass...the caliper should show 1-3/8", and go again...

It's very easy to modify the caliper...takes some 5 min, some 3 pieces from the scrap box and a few drops of CA...(I have a step-by-step pics and will post separately).

Best regards
niki
















































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Old 06-25-2007, 07:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Interesting Niki. Am I right in thinking that it's only when you are making slots that the fence needs to be parallel to the bit? Otherwise parallelism isn't an issue(?).
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi Geordie

No, the fence does not have to be parallel for any operation on the router table.

For the example, lets make a round router table...in this case there is no "Fence parallel to the table edge" (which edge) because the table is round.

You can put the fence ones in one position or turn the fence 30° from this position or turn the fence to 95° from the initial position.
As long as you set the fence 3/8" from the bit and push the wood along the fence, the cut or, slot will be 3/8 from the wood edge (or the fence).

Parallelism is not an issue on router table, it's only important for me, because of the method that I use to set the bit-fence distance.

Regards
niki
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oyvay you make such a thing of this. You must be a perfectionist. I made my fence and put the t-tracks in without all that hubbub. I used a large metal carpenter's square to align the slots for the track. My table is 1 1/2 inches thick and with a few passes with a 3/8's bit, I cut the slots.

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Old 06-25-2007, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi niki

I guess I just don't get it

Why make something so easy so hard you can use the brass setup bars or just about anything that's 1" ,lets say you want a 3/8" wide slot 1" from the edge, you would just put the brass bars in place or a 1" setup block and make the pass quick and easy if you want a 3/4" slot you would put in a 3/4" bit and do it the same way...

The fence doesn't come in to play so to speak it just used as a setup point for the brass bars, the fence can be off center of the table by 30deg. it makes no difference.

But this is just my 2 cents......

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Old 06-25-2007, 08:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Gary
You must have Jewish friends....this Oyvay (I'm using it every day)...
I'm not perfectionist but very close to it...

Hi BJ
I was waiting to those brass bars to come in but, they dont come in increments of 0.1 mm (0.004") and sometimes its very important for me.

"Why to make something so easy so hard"?...well, I'm asking you the same question when you are using the Imperial measuring system...for me, it's hard, for you it's natural and everyone is using what is easy for him. I'm using this method already 10 years and I like it.

And you are correct about the fence position
As I replied to Geordie, the best example is Round router table.
You can even bolt the fence on one side of the table and move only the other side with the bolted side as a pivot.

Best regards
niki

Last edited by simplenik; 06-25-2007 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Help me out here -
For the sake of argument let's say I know the distance from the front edge of the table to the center of the bit is 6"
I want to make a 1/2" dado 2" from the edge of the piece.
I'm using a 1/2" bit.
SO --
Step 1
I take my trusty and somewhat rusty combination square
and set it to 8 1/4"
6" to bit center + 1/4" for half the bit + 2" for space on the piece
Step 2
I press my square tight against the front of the table --
Step 3
I press the right side fence against the end of the square and lock it down.
Step 4
I do the same on the left side fence - then doublecheck.

Compared to Nik's description and a lot of other discussion this seems so simplistic --- but it always seemed to work for me.
Am I missing something?
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi niki

At one time I did many things the hard way until I came upon Bob & Rick and the RWS shows and they showed me the light and now Bob R. is my hero so to speak..

He will and can show you many, many ways to use the router the easy and simple way no fuss no muss just let Bob and Rick show you how

We are both stuck with the Imperial measuring or the Metic system that's no big deal.
It would be a big deal If all we had only one way...of measuring things...
Two is always better than one...and I do use both from time to time.
I will use both to check setting on items all the time on my elec.mike always pushing that button....


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Old 06-25-2007, 09:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's how I look at where to put a track..

If I have a featherboard that has a 4" reach, I'll put the track in so that I can put the FB up to the bit, with a little room to spare.. Let's say 3.75".. You can also take into consideration if you are going to use a miter gauge..

It really doesn't matter where you put a track in, just as long as you're comfortable where it is.. On my present table, I don't have a track in it, as I found I didn't really use the one I had in the old table top.. The FBs I use now are made of 1x3" oak that I just clamp to the edge of the table..
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
. . .
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
I tend to pretty much respect everyone's opinion -- sometimes to the point of doubting my own.
Usually the way I do something isn't purposely easy - or hard -
It's just the only way I know - either because it's what I was taught or something I figured out on my own - making it up as I go.
SO - when I see other people spending 6 or 7 steps on something I am doing in 3 --- I wonder what I'm overlooking.

Remember --
"If you can keep your head - while all those around are losing theirs ----
You just DONT understand the situation."
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