BigWorm2005GT

Thanks for the confirmation, guys. Construction continues, and I should have the carcase completed by tomorrow afternoon. Then I can use it in "barebones" appearance to complete the other parts, like the fronts for the bit drawers and such.

I've almost worked up the courage to try the wiring. It looks simple on paper, just hope that I can do as good a job in real life. I understand the concepts, but it is still a daunting prospect. I know my limits wel enough to where if I get to a place where I don't feel safe, I'm stopping and asking a pro for advice.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

BW

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Drugstore Cowboy

I see on your profile that you are into drag racing and scuba diving. Both of those require a lot more technical ability than wiring a switch or outlet.
You should have no trouble.

For one thing - most switches and outlets you will find are essentially color coded.
(someone may have already mentioned this)
Black wires go to 'brass' colored screws, white wires go to 'silver' colored screws and the bare ground wire goes to the green screws.

I have to second what Joe said, though. Unless you just WANT to wire one yourself for the experience - or because it fits the look of your table better --- you aren't saving THAT much money over a ready made switch -- especially if you count your time as valuable.

Paul

BigWorm2005GT

Paul,

Thanks for the response. Yeah, I know, but I tend to approach things I haven't done before with almost an overload of preparation. That way, I'm in for as few surprises as I can prepare for.

And yes, this is mostly for my own experience. It's a great opportunity to learn or practice many things... Joinery techniques, complex structuring, wiring, working with MDF, dovetailing... Time is valuable, you are absolutely right, but I count time spent learning something new or practicing something I already know but could be better as time very well spent.

Thanks for the words of wisdom, though, I do appreciate it.

BW

Drugstore Cowboy

I couldn't agree more.
Wasn't trying to discourage you at all from building your own -
- just laying out options.

My next project is building my own table as well -- and more than one salesman has pointed out to me that by the time I buy all the various components I could have bought a perfectly good table -- in fact - Rockler had one on sale lonline ast week for LESS than I have already spent.
But I gave them essentially the same speech you gave me ----

There is just a DIFFERENCE -- when you can say -- I made it myself.

Joe Lyddon

Hey BW, you have 5 more posts to go when you will be allowed to include pictures and links...

I expect you to reply "OK, will do." to this post...

If you're going to wire the switch, etc. yourself, you should also have an Ohm Meter or Multimeter to check the wiring out before you give it the "Smoke & Fire Test".

Harbor Frt. has a cheap digital multimeter on sale for around $2-$3 now & then... still cheap & good Off Sale.

If you don't know how to use one, it's really simple...
Turn a Selector knob to Resistance / Ohms... and there will be various other scales present... choose the one with the lowest scale.

It has a couple of test leads, usually Red (+) & Black (-).

If you put the two ends together, meaning Short, you will see a reading on the meter. If you don't get a reading, there is NO Short.

Place the leads at various places, check for readings or no readings... with the switch flipped ON then OFF to see different reading happen, etc.

It will tell you whether or not the circuit is as you want it to be...

It beats blowing fuses / breakers and seeing sparks fly!!

Take care.

LeeC

I have a somewhat different solution to your wiring. I mounted a duplex metal electrical box on the side of my table so that I could install a switch and outlet. I took a heaby extension cord and connected the black wire to one side of the switch and a jumper wire from the other side of the switch to the gold terminal on the outlet. I connected the white wire to the silver terminal on the outlet and the ground to the box. This allows me to plug in my router to the outlet on the table. If necessary, now I can move the table and plug the extension cord in to another wall outlet. I found the with a 3 HP router you need to use 20 amp rated switches and outlets after having a couple of the 15 amp ones fail. This way I dont have to hunt for the switch on the router every time I want to turn it off. If I am going to change a bit, then I turn off both switches, or unplug the router. The wiring is really quite easy after you do it for a few years. Have fun with it.

harrysin

Lee, I hope that when you use the plunge router you, without thinking, check that it's switch is OFF, this is a very important habit to cultivate. Happy and safe routing.

__________________
Harry

AxlMyk

I can't agree with that.. The cabinet I built cost:
1 sheet of 1/2 baltic birch ply - $24.50
1 2x4x3/4 MDF - $2 from the HD bargain rack
4 wheels $16
1 piano hinge cut in half $7
2 door clasps $3
Already had the insert and switch box.

Total $52

__________________
Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman
My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/

Drugstore Cowboy

Ahhh -- but there is the key ---
You 'already had' two of the most expensive components.
If you add $40 for the insert and $15 for the switch you are up to $107.

The Rockler table I referred to was a benchtop model on sale --- for $60

That's about what I have invested - about $30 wood for the top and base -
I bought the T-track system from Rockler on sale for $11.
(no - not a must have - but at that price hard to resist) and and $12 for the replacement rings for the insert. (I'm mounting both the router and the rings directly to the top.) Haven't decided which way to go on the switch -
I'll buy the ready made one IF I can find it on sale for $15.
I already have all the finish, screws and other misc. things needed - but I figure if I had to go buy them that would be about another $10
Making my total cost about $80
So you and I are in the same ballpark.

OH -- lest you think I am arguing with you -- which I am not
-- I didn't agree with the salesmen either
(I WAS one for 20+ years I know what's real information and what's a pitch)
---
If I HAD bought a ready made one -- the one I would have wanted was closer to $300.

BigWorm2005GT

Let's see...

Sheet of 4x8 birch plywood: $25
Sheet of 2x4 plywood: $12
2 sheets of 1/2" MDF: $12
One 8"x11' hardwood plank: $25
Hinges (big and small): $20
Drawer knobs: $10
Casters: $16
Electrical stuff: $20

Total: $140

Already have: Sacrificial extension cord

This does not take into account the extra wood I'll have to purchase to build the drawers. I consider those optional for the moment, and will make them once I have a dovetailing jig. But this is enough to complete the bit drawers, utility compartment, and router compartment with front doors.

And of course...

Satisfaction of saying "Yes, I built that...": Priceless!

Pictures will follow once complete and I'm at ten posts. Wiring will be done hopefully by week's end; I'll post pictures of the completed unit when it's done. Thanks again for everyone's help!

BW