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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 07-10-2007, 08:34 PM   #1
BigWorm2005GT
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Default Wiring a Homebuilt Router Table

Good evening, all. New user, first post, so hello to all!

Now, to my question. I am in the process of building the router table described in Bill Hylton's excellent book Woodworking with the Router. I'm actually proceeding very well and am having a lot of fun building it. But I have a problem. I have no electrical training, and while I want to wire in the switched outlets that are described in this (and other) router table plans I've seen, I don't know how. Does anyone have a schematic or other diagram that can show me how to wire this up properly without electrocuting myself?

Additionally, if anyone knows of a good two-button pushbutton on/off switch, that would be great, too. I've seen the Rockler one (with the throw-type switch and the outlet on the front), but I'd really like the peace of mind of a "green on, red off" two button type.

Any help would be great! I've been lurking here for a while, readin up on your previous words of wisdom, but could not find anything on point here. Thanks in advance for your assistance!

BW
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Old 07-10-2007, 08:46 PM   #2
bobj3
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Hi BW

Here's a PDF that will show many ways to wire it up..

Hope it helps..

--------------

I did rework the picture just a bit 9:36 PM
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wiring-homebuilt-router-table-outlet.jpg  
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File Type: pdf wiring diag U013-U020.pdf (493.6 KB, 259 views)
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:48 PM   #3
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Bob,

Close! The first diagram on the second page looks like what I want to do, but it lists the outlets coming out of the home breaker panel. I would guess that replace that portion with (a) an inline power switch of some kind, and (b) instead of going into a breaker I'd have a power cord with a standard three prong at the end to plug into a wall outlet. I'd guess the switch would go on the white/black lines going from source to the first outlet in series.

Do I have that about right? Thanks for the diagram, that clears up about 90% of my confusion!
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWorm2005GT
Bob,

Close! The first diagram on the second page looks like what I want to do, but it lists the outlets coming out of the home breaker panel. I would guess that replace that portion with (a) an inline power switch of some kind, and (b) instead of going into a breaker I'd have a power cord with a standard three prong at the end to plug into a wall outlet. I'd guess the switch would go on the white/black lines going from source to the first outlet in series.

Do I have that about right? Thanks for the diagram, that clears up about 90% of my confusion!
Hi BW:

The diagram that Bob provided is not quite correct. Looking at the front of the outlets, with the longer blade (Neutral) on the right side, the grounding pins would be at the top (not at the bottom as shown.) Going by the long blade-short blade arrangement (ignoring the position of the grounding pins), the wiring as shown is correct.

In your case, you want to replace the toggle switch with an industrial-styled on-off pushbutton station. I would suggest you check the industrial catalogues, such as Allen Bradley. You might stop in at an industrial electrical supply shop and ask them on which switches are suitable.

For the wiring, some points to keep in mind:

1. The switch goes in the LIVE (black) line only. NEVER place a switch in the NEUTRAL (white) line. NEVER place a switch in the GROUND (green or bare) line.

2. The NEUTRAL (white) wire on your cord should go directly to the outlet(s). The NEUTRAL connection on the outlets are the longer of the two blades.

3. The LIVE (black) wire should go to the switch. From the other side of the switch, run a black wire to the live side of the outlets. On the outlets, the LIVE (black) wire should go to the shorter of the two blades.

4. !! Remember !! to ground all devices through their grounding screws.

5. If you use a metal box to mount the switch and outlets in, the ground (green) wire should go the box's grounding screw.

6. The diagrams on page 2 of the PDF diagrams are for GFCI wiring. GFCI outlets have special wiring requirements, to ensure proper protection. If you are going to use GFCI outlets, use the first diagram on page 2, but add a switch in the black line from the panel to the first outlet. To answer your question, replace the panel in the diagram with an electrical cord, keeping the same configuration of wires. (GFCI = Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

Hope this helps,
Cassie
Electrical Engineer (Ontario, Canada)

Last edited by Cassandra; 07-10-2007 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:54 PM   #5
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BigWorm2005GT,


W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWorm2005GT
Good evening, all. New user, first post, so hello to all!

Now, to my question. I am in the process of building the router table described in Bill Hylton's excellent book Woodworking with the Router. I'm actually proceeding very well and am having a lot of fun building it. But I have a problem. I have no electrical training, and while I want to wire in the switched outlets that are described in this (and other) router table plans I've seen, I don't know how. Does anyone have a schematic or other diagram that can show me how to wire this up properly without electrocuting myself?

Additionally, if anyone knows of a good two-button pushbutton on/off switch, that would be great, too. I've seen the Rockler one (with the throw-type switch and the outlet on the front), but I'd really like the peace of mind of a "green on, red off" two button type.

Any help would be great! I've been lurking here for a while, readin up on your previous words of wisdom, but could not find anything on point here. Thanks in advance for your assistance!

BW
Hi BW...

First of all, you always want to switch the Black wire... Now, if you don't know what I mean by that, BUY a switch.

I don't know what Rockler sw. you're talking about, BUT this is their new designed switch... Same as the other Red / Green button sw. except a flapper / paddle has been added to make it easier to turn it off; otherwise identical! I always like to get them On Sale... have no idea when this NEW one will go on sale. It is a GOOD switch.

I was doing what you are doing one day... then I saw this sw. on sale for $15, which was cheaper than buying the parts and wiring them together!! So I bought the sw...!! Works great... and it's alot easier to install too!!

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

Good Luck...

Last edited by Joe Lyddon; 07-10-2007 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:18 AM   #7
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@ Cassie & Joe,

Thanks very much. I was mistaken about the manufacturer of the switch I had seen, it is found on MLCS's website under Router Accessories (tried to post the page, but I can't for some reason).

Anyway, to your more on-point posts, yes, that's exactly the type of information I need. So, the switch then simply goes in-line on the live (BLACK) side, between the input source and the first outlet, I have that right? That way, when thrown, it applies or kills power to all outlets downstream?

I may just get that paddle switch you pointed out, Joe. It looks as though that big stop sign can be removed, or I could redesign the layout of that part of the cabinet to accomodate it.

Thanks very much as always!

BW
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:19 AM   #8
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Here's what I did..

I used a heavy duty extention cord and stripped 4-5" off about 9" from the female plug..
Then I folded and stuck the stripped portion into my switch recepticle..
Next, I cut the BLACK wire in 2 and connected those to my switch..
I plug the one end into the wall, and my router into the female end..
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:36 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWorm2005GT
Anyway, to your more on-point posts, yes, that's exactly the type of information I need. So, the switch then simply goes in-line on the live (BLACK) side, between the input source and the first outlet, I have that right? That way, when thrown, it applies or kills power to all outlets downstream?
Hi BW:

Yes, you are correct.

You are welcome, good buddy.

Cassie
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWorm2005GT
@ Cassie & Joe,
I may just get that paddle switch you pointed out, Joe. It looks as though that big stop sign can be removed, or I could redesign the layout of that part of the cabinet to accomodate it.

Thanks very much as always!

BW
BW, yes, the paddle is very easily removed... just pull out at the hinge points & it should come off and leave you with the same switch they used to sell... With that little 'paddle', they can call it a "SAFETY" sw. and charge MORE for it!

I wish they had just sold the paddle as an optional piece & let it be our choice instead of theirs. But, you know how that goes...

Oh, you won't be able to post links & pics until you've posted 10 times... It's a spam control measure taken with new members... After 10 posts, you can do it!! So, if you want to speed it up a tad... Just post, even if it's to sal "HI" to someone!
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