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**challagan** · 07-11-2007, 08:34 PM

Question for you guys that do a lot of this. I have some boxes that I want to do in the future that will have dado's in them. These are parts that will accept dividers for inside the jewelry box or what ever. If you have say 2 inch wide by 8 inch long piece let's say and you want a dado every 1 1/2 inches across it's length what's the easiest and safest way to do this on the table. My table which is an oak park table top does not have a miter slot. Now I know that I can keep adjusting the fence back by an 1 1/2 inches but remember it's only 2 inch wide stock and that will be difficult to keep square to the fence the whole time it would seem. and will be trouble some when it reaches the fence/bit hole. Any thoughts?

Corey

**bobj3** · 07-11-2007, 09:06 PM

Hi Corey

I don't do alot of it but this is what I would do to get the job done on the table..

Make a jig like the Oak-Park box joint jig but it would have a slot in place of a hole.. 3/8" wide slot 3" long ,so you can use it for othe setups...

I would make it out of 1/2" thick MDF then clamp it to the table top and make the slots the same way as the Oak-Park one but the stock is flat on the table top and the push block as the same type of slot so you can use to keep it true after the 1st slot then just push it over the bit.
I think I would use wide stock and then rip to size after the slots are in..
This would keep the slots clean without the rip out showing...

==============

===========

Quote:

Originally Posted by challagan

Question for you guys that do a lot of this. I have some boxes that I want to do in the future that will have dado's in them. These are parts that will accept dividers for inside the jewelry box or what ever. If you have say 2 inch wide by 8 inch long piece let's say and you want a dado every 1 1/2 inches across it's length what's the easiest and safest way to do this on the table. My table which is an oak park table top does not have a miter slot. Now I know that I can keep adjusting the fence back by an 1 1/2 inches but remember it's only 2 inch wide stock and that will be difficult to keep square to the fence the whole time it would seem. and will be trouble some when it reaches the fence/bit hole. Any thoughts?

Corey

**challagan** · 07-11-2007, 09:19 PM

I must be thick headed tonight. I have to think about the oak park jig thing. The wider stock would make it more stable all by itself with a push block on top of it. 6-8 inches wide would probably make it pretty stable. Table saw with a dado blade might make more sense here in the long run... I just like router cut dado's better than a saw blade.

Corey

**bobj3** · 07-11-2007, 11:09 PM

Hi Corey

Just thought of a way to doing without making a new jig, use the Incra, make a spacer block 1 1/2" set the block on the inside of the bit and next to the fence then set the Incra to the " 0 " on the gage now make one more gage block that's 1 3/4" wide move the side of the Incra back to the next spot and mark the gage...then write that number down...then all you need to do is move the fence back by that number to put in the new slots...1/4" slots by 3/16" deep should work I think...

Fire up your Colt and set it up bud...

================

gregW · 07-11-2007, 11:49 PM

Bj,

I thought that the whole idea behind the incra jig was that you don't need spacer blocks...can't you just use the toothed increments and the incra jigs scale to accurately set the spacing once you establish the initial bit to fence distance?

**bobj3** · 07-11-2007, 11:57 PM

Hi Corey

True BUT
You said your eyes are bad, can you read the scale

hahahahahahaha

small letters and numbers bud hahahahahahaha

I guess you can count the clicks

hahahahaha

Bj

**harrysin** · 07-12-2007, 01:36 AM

Corey, is this the sort of result that you're looking for? I do these on the radial arm saw but I'm sure that a fairly simple jig could be cobbled for use with the table saw. Imagine a length of 2" x 1" against the fence with another piece at right angles to it, all the pieces to be cut are held together within the right angle and after setting the blade height and fence position simply slide the jig forward across the blade. If cuts wider than the kerf are required, use a dado set, wobble washers or move the fence the required number of times.

**challagan** · 07-12-2007, 07:35 AM

Bj I agree, that should work very well and I think I could actually handle the numbers on the jig even but the pushblock is the thing that makes it safe.

Harry, it is real easy to do it on the table saw but that is what I want to avoid as I like the router cut dado's and grooves. The items shown are not exactly what I was talking... I was actually talking about the dados in the casework that your dividers would fit in to. But those pieces would need done as well and those are very easily done on the incra using the push block. Neve have owned a Radial Arm saw and the way my shop is now I would need to have a ceiling mount .. drop down model

Thanks guys for all the ideas!

Corey

**bobj3** · 07-12-2007, 08:39 AM

Hi Harry

I think is talking about the joint below in the snapshot...

==============

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

Corey, is this the sort of result that you're looking for? I do these on the radial arm saw but I'm sure that a fairly simple jig could be cobbled for use with the table saw. Imagine a length of 2" x 1" against the fence with another piece at right angles to it, all the pieces to be cut are held together within the right angle and after setting the blade height and fence position simply slide the jig forward across the blade. If cuts wider than the kerf are required, use a dado set, wobble washers or move the fence the required number of times.

**harrysin** · 07-12-2007, 09:01 AM

Bj, where did you purchase that swish looking box?

Corey, I have made numerous boxes with dividers the thickness varying from about 1/8"
to 3/4" and in all but one have assembled the dividers as a free standing unit and made it a good glue fit into the box, keep it simple, see you have me at it now!

07-11-2007, 08:34 PM	#1
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,942 View challagan's Gallery	Cross Cutting Dado's On The Router Table... Question for you guys that do a lot of this. I have some boxes that I want to do in the future that will have dado's in them. These are parts that will accept dividers for inside the jewelry box or what ever. If you have say 2 inch wide by 8 inch long piece let's say and you want a dado every 1 1/2 inches across it's length what's the easiest and safest way to do this on the table. My table which is an oak park table top does not have a miter slot. Now I know that I can keep adjusting the fence back by an 1 1/2 inches but remember it's only 2 inch wide stock and that will be difficult to keep square to the fence the whole time it would seem. and will be trouble some when it reaches the fence/bit hole. Any thoughts? Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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07-11-2007, 09:19 PM	#3
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,942 View challagan's Gallery	I must be thick headed tonight. I have to think about the oak park jig thing. The wider stock would make it more stable all by itself with a push block on top of it. 6-8 inches wide would probably make it pretty stable. Table saw with a dado blade might make more sense here in the long run... I just like router cut dado's better than a saw blade. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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07-11-2007, 11:09 PM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,080 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Corey Just thought of a way to doing without making a new jig, use the Incra, make a spacer block 1 1/2" set the block on the inside of the bit and next to the fence then set the Incra to the " 0 " on the gage now make one more gage block that's 1 3/4" wide move the side of the Incra back to the next spot and mark the gage...then write that number down...then all you need to do is move the fence back by that number to put in the new slots...1/4" slots by 3/16" deep should work I think... Fire up your Colt and set it up bud... ================ __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 07-11-2007 at 11:11 PM.
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07-11-2007, 11:49 PM	#5
gregW Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: California, USA Posts: 139 View gregW's Gallery	Bj, I thought that the whole idea behind the incra jig was that you don't need spacer blocks...can't you just use the toothed increments and the incra jigs scale to accurately set the spacing once you establish the initial bit to fence distance? __________________ Greg -------------------------------
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07-11-2007, 11:57 PM	#6
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,080 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Corey True BUT You said your eyes are bad, can you read the scale hahahahahahaha small letters and numbers bud hahahahahahaha I guess you can count the clicks hahahahaha Bj __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/
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07-12-2007, 01:36 AM	#7
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,649 View harrysin's Gallery	Corey, is this the sort of result that you're looking for? I do these on the radial arm saw but I'm sure that a fairly simple jig could be cobbled for use with the table saw. Imagine a length of 2" x 1" against the fence with another piece at right angles to it, all the pieces to be cut are held together within the right angle and after setting the blade height and fence position simply slide the jig forward across the blade. If cuts wider than the kerf are required, use a dado set, wobble washers or move the fence the required number of times. Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Harry*
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07-12-2007, 07:35 AM	#8
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 3,942 View challagan's Gallery	Bj I agree, that should work very well and I think I could actually handle the numbers on the jig even but the pushblock is the thing that makes it safe. Harry, it is real easy to do it on the table saw but that is what I want to avoid as I like the router cut dado's and grooves. The items shown are not exactly what I was talking... I was actually talking about the dados in the casework that your dividers would fit in to. But those pieces would need done as well and those are very easily done on the incra using the push block. Neve have owned a Radial Arm saw and the way my shop is now I would need to have a ceiling mount .. drop down model Thanks guys for all the ideas! Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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07-12-2007, 09:01 AM	#10
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,649 View harrysin's Gallery	Bj, where did you purchase that swish looking box? Corey, I have made numerous boxes with dividers the thickness varying from about 1/8" to 3/4" and in all but one have assembled the dividers as a free standing unit and made it a good glue fit into the box, keep it simple, see you have me at it now! Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Harry* Last edited by harrysin; 07-12-2007 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Added photograph
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