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| Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router. |
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| | #1 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Good day After I made the Mortising jig for the router table, I thought that to bent under the bench every pass to lift the bit, is too much for my old back so I made a simple lift. The lifting mechanism is located on the right side (behind the fence) so it will not interfere with any operation. It takes some 30 seconds to install it and I'll probably improve a few things time and experience. It works very smooth (after a drop of oil in the T-nut) and takes some 25 turns from "bit level with the table" (1/8" below) to "bit 1-3/8" above the table". Regards niki ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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| | #2 |
| Registered User Jr. Member | The best kind of solution... Simple, effective, and darn near foolproof. Well done! |
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| | #3 |
| Banned Supreme Forum King | Niki, Another Simple, huge improvement... to existing jig!! You must set aside some time, like early in the morning, to do your creative thinking, then really nail more goodies for ALL to see! Proving that that The Mother Invention is a Real Need for a Solution! Thanks again for a good one!! Do you crank it higher than the target... then, set it on the way down? |
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| | #4 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Now THAT my friend is an idea I will probably take the time to 'adapt'. Not as 'elegant' as the commercial ones --- but JUST as effective --- and at about 1/4 the price. Of course -- FIRST I have to invest in a plunge router. Unless you have some really creative idea how to add a shop-built holder so I could just take the router out of the base and install it in your lift. ![]() Last edited by Drugstore Cowboy; 07-13-2007 at 05:29 PM. |
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| | #5 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Thank you so much Joe I crank it up the required height (checked with caliper), set the plunge (depth) stop, lower the bit all the way down and during mortising, I just crank 3~4 turns after each pass till I hit the depth stop. Cowboy One think I must disagree with you ...it's not 1/4 price...the threaded rod costs here around 60 Cents and if you add to it a few nuts and washers, it will come to $1...Sorry but I don't have any experience with fixed base routers (in Europe, except the Trimmers, all the routers are Plunge type)...But they are so cheap in your country (M12V...USA=$120....Europe=$600...why? I don't know). Regards niki |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User Supreme Forum King | Niki, you ought to submit that to a wood working magazine.. I'll bet it's worth, at the very least, a new bandsaw, dust collector, or some cool tool..
__________________ Mike - Retired FoMoCo Tradesman My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/ |
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| | #7 |
| Official Greeter Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Lebanon, Ohio "USA" First Name: Dave or "Doc" Posts: 4,678 ![]() | Another fine Niki innovation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________ Dave the "Doctor" In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood. ![]() Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum. |
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| | #8 | |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Quote:
The hardware would cost a little more than that here -- plus I was including the cost of all the wood etc - worst case of having to buy everything from scratch. But - yes - you are right -- even at that you are right --- it would be much less than $20 - ($80 is the cheapest commercial one I have found here). And to tell the truth -- I actually LIKE the less 'mechanized' look of the wood. Gonna hold on to this til I get a new router. | |
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