harrysin

I'm going to look around next week for an arbour and blade, my arbours are #2Mt and my blades very fine toothed for metal. I'll be happy if I can get just the blade and make the arbour myself.
I've only made one box as an enclosure and I cut it on the band-saw but you're idea appeals to me. Not a day goes by that I don't learn something new.

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Harry

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bobj3

Hi Cowboy

"'pivoting' fence" = I now use two of them on my router tables, they are great..

Here we go again with the gallery thing..

The fence needs a slot on one end thats running with the fence and one or two holes on the other end of the fence, the one on the left is the pivoting point and the one on the right is the lock down..Both lock the fence down.

I use a snap and lock on one table and knob screw type on the other table..both work well for this job..the snap lock pin you can get from Grizzly at about 8.oo bucks but it needs a nut in the fence to screw it to.
That's a bit trickey because the nut needs to be cut in two parts..so it will fit in the fence base... it's a 5/8-18 thread on the lock pin...the nut needs to be a max of 1/4" thick...

Once the fence has the slots and the tee nuts are in place on the bottom side to thread into,,,once you have that done all that's needed to change bits or put the router out of the table is unlock the one on the right and swing the fence back, once the new bit is in place ,swing it back in place and lock it down, quick and easy...
I did made a stop jig for one of the tables that will reset the fence right back to the same point as b/4 .. see snapshots for that one...

NOTE**** I don't recommend the tee tracks unless they are on the front (front edge) side of the router table... they are a pain to use, always in the wrong place.


Bj

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AxlMyk

Looks like your thread got hijacked Cowboy..

I use 2 clamps for the fence.. When I want to do a micro adjustment, I just loosen one of them.. Works pretty good..

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Drugstore Cowboy

Tain't no big thang -
I've noticed that happens a LOT in here -- and I have been as guilty as anyone of chasing a tangent.

Actuallly - as long as the original poster still gets his/her question answered -- and no one gets offended if they try to get back on track - I think it can be a good thing -- more of a 'natural' flow of conversation.

I've been in other forums on other sites where the moderators must have been drill sergeants in a former life -- If you happened to post in what they considered the 'wrong' area -- or if you strayed an inch from the original topic you were made to feel like a wetnosed schoolkid coloring outside the lines.

But -- back to fences ---
BJ - thanks
I found some good shots of the front of your fence under your FACELIFT post - but I couldn't find any shots of the back showing how it was connected.

bobj3

Hi Cowboy

Here's some snapshots that may help...

The snap lock pin I got from sommerfeldtools.com, they used in on their old router table fences...

Plus how and where to mount the
Daisy Pin Router
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../daisypin.html
see picture below

Just one more swing fence ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...table-6740.jpg
They make it so easy to pull out the router to change the bit or set the bit height then just drop it back in and your off and running again...as you can see the drop in base plates can be round....no need to have a template to cut the round hole unlike the router sq.base plate..
------------
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ter-table.html


Bj

Attached Thumbnails

         

     

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Drugstore Cowboy

BJ -
Thanks - didnt mean to take a chunk out of your Saturday -- but that DOES make it a lot more clear. Appreciate it.

I like your -- 'presets' too.

bobj3

Hi Cowboy

No big deal I'm in and of the shop all day long on Sat....and I pop on line just to cool off a bit,,,,the boss has got me playing with the trees today....things just keep getting bigger and bigger all the time..little trim around the ears today for them...


Bj

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RWS on YouTube

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Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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bobj3

Hi Harry


COWBOY, sorry
I'm going to high jack the post again

HARRY

The one I made is for the deep spline jig, but it works for many other jobs on the router table..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...slot-jigs.html


The blades I got from HD, but I did find them a bit cheaper on eBay, for about 12.oo bucks for a 6 pack if I recall that right.. and they are just as good as the higher price ones from Home Depot.... (18.oo bucks ea.at HD)

Plus the guy on eBay that I got them from is only 1 mile away from me, small world , right

I also use the band saw BUT sometimes the box is just to big or it's just a bit to nasty to cut it true...that meat saw can get you in heart beat if it's open to the max.

Bj


=================

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Machine Cut ▼
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Drugstore Cowboy

Not a problem -
I've gotten some good ideas from you and others --
just got to let em gel and decide what I want to do --
And I know what you mean about trees.
I have a 70 year old Pecan tree I have mentioned before that is pretty much pruning itself -- I just have to deal with the aftermath ---

Thursday a storm knocked off a 10' long major limb -- abou 6" diameter at the break. Hoping I can find someone who wants it for cooking wood -- otherwise -- got my work cut out next weekend.

bobj3

Hi Cowboy

"presets"= it's more of a reset, that's to say many router bits are sets (matched) like the rail & style bits set for cabinet doors and others,,,,it takes two bits to make the parts for a cabinet door,, once you use one of the bits the height of the next bit should not be moved up or down and should be in the same place as the 1st, bit, with the reset jig that can be done easy,,,
Once you set the 1st bit and use it on the stock set the (reset block with the screws on it) right behind the fence and lock it in place, then put the 2nd bit in and move the fence right back to the same point it was when you used the 1st. bit ,the and joints will line right up right on the buttton with almost no sanding at all.... and fit just right ....

NOTE*** you may ask how do you keep the bit at the same height if you take out one and replace it with the next bit,,,, the trick to this is to use a rubber gromet in the base of the collet nut, that the bit just sits on when you switch out the bits....the rubber gromet is a stop point for the bit..
Just about all matched router bits sets are the same height from the bottom of the bit to the cutter(s)....

You can used a rubber gromet or a rubber faucet washer, that works the best for most collet nuts, they are just the right size to push in the bottom part of the collet nut, you can get them at HD/Ace Hardware/Lowes just about any hardware store sales a repair faucet washer kit...it should have 2 or 3 in the kit...that will just fit..

Once you use the rubber insert you will ask yourself how did I ever do it without it...

This little trick will save you from making any firewood ....








Bj

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

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Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.