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J0B00 · 08-22-2007, 02:51 PM

I'm looking into buying the build your own kit from Oak Park, but I'm curious how those of you who have gone this route attached the top to a cabinet. I'm a newbie, so go easy on me...photos do wonders.

I'm wanting to get a nicer router as the one I have is junk, as well as the crappy table its on (Skil RAS4510 1 3/4 HP Combo), so I want to save my cash for the router. It hard to adjust this router accurately, and the table is way small.

My goal is to build a simple base for the top as cheap as possible. My speed bump is how its attached underneath. I'd probably make a nicer cabinet for it later on down the road, but right now I just want to have something useable so I can get started on some real projects and not spend all my time/money trying to get tools together.

Drugstore Cowboy · 08-22-2007, 03:05 PM

There are any number of ways to attach a top - as I am sure you know.
I am just finishing a base for my new table -- and I will probably attach the top the way I typically do counter tops and table tops etc.

I pretty much always put a corner block for in each corner anyway -- so --
I just drill a hole through it and attach the top from underneath.

Pocket screws seem to be hot right now -- so I am sure some folks will give you suggestions on that too --

Pretty much any way you do it that doesnt involve drilling a hole in the top -- to me -- would be preferable.

Woodnut65 · 08-22-2007, 05:05 PM

Hi Joboo: I have the Oak Park table, it has small furniture connectors that hold everything together. It makes it easy to knock down and use else where. The table top is 3/4" thick. It is very stable. The rest is made of 1/2" baltic birch. Oak Park sells the furniture connectors, they are not expensive. You might consider using triangular pieces in the cabinet corners and secure the top with screws in the corners, making sure they are short enough to not come through the top. hope this helps..
Woodnut65

J0B00 · 08-22-2007, 05:42 PM

Woodnut:

Did you build the table yourself, or get it premade?? If you made it yourself, what tools were required? When you say it breaks down easy, do you mean you can take the whole table apart, or do you mean its easy to remove the top?

Thanks for the help guys!

Andy

**Bob** · 08-22-2007, 06:32 PM

Andy,

It means both. The OP unit is one very well thought out table and cabinet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by J0B00

Woodnut:

Did you build the table yourself, or get it premade?? If you made it yourself, what tools were required? When you say it breaks down easy, do you mean you can take the whole table apart, or do you mean its easy to remove the top?

Thanks for the help guys!

Andy

**harrysin** · 08-23-2007, 06:35 AM

As stated, there are many ways to attach table tops, this is the one that I use which allows for seasonal movement of the timber. The only preparation is a 1/8" routed groove as shown.

J0B00 · 08-23-2007, 09:27 AM

I might just save up for the completed Oak Park table. All I've got is a table saw and a router right now, which is enough for me to make small boxes and a few other projects that I want to do to get started. I really need a better router solution though and I know it would be worth it to get a nice table, as well as a good router.

What are everyone's thoughts on the Dewalt 618 router? I played with it at Lowes the other day, as well as a couple of the porter cable routers, and I really liked how easy it was to adjust. I also like being able to pack the motor and plunge base into a case. I don't have a dedicated shop, so all of my tools are used outdoors. It would be nice to be able to pack up the router and take it in the house for storage rather than leave it out in the shed in the elements. The 618 also seemed very sturdy in its base, which is one of my big complaints with what I'm using now...I don't feel like my current router is held tight when its locked down after making an adjustment. Seems unsafe, as well as inaccurate. The extra HP will help as well...my current solution is 1 3/4 HP and seems to bog down easily.

Andy

**bobj3** · 08-23-2007, 10:01 AM

I also like to use the same type of clamps, BUT I make my own out of hardwood, see item below....

When I make them I almost always make a plastic bag full of them so I have them on hand when I need some...

the bag I use will hold about 50 or so but I'm switching over to plastic jars the big ones you get at Sams and other big out lets stores, the BOSS needs to hide them from when she gets them because she knows I will dump out what's inside of them and run off with the new plastic container

LOL

But the ones that work the best for me are the T & G type corner blocks.they hold the case sq. and hold down the top all with one part...
see the 2 and 3 snapshot below

Buy the way I use a slot cutter to put in the 1/8" to 1/4" wide slots, it's quick and it's hard to break a slot cutter bit unlike a 1/8" to 1/4" router bit, plus you can use the slot cutter in the hand type router ( I don't recommend
the PLUNGE router for this type of job) if you want to put the slots in after you have the cabinet made but you need to use care when you use a big bit in the hand router...

==================

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

As stated, there are many ways to attach table tops, this is the one that I use which allows for seasonal movement of the timber. The only preparation is a 1/8" routed groove as shown.

**harrysin** · 08-23-2007, 10:16 AM

You cheapskate Bj. don't you consider the poor storekeeper? but it is a neat idea.

**bobj3** · 08-23-2007, 10:38 AM

Hi Harry

Yep I am a cheap SOB

, I always have cut off's and just don't like to put them in the trash can

,,,

wood is wood,,, the T & G corner blocks take a bit more work to make but they do a great job, most cabinets are hard to keep sq. and the blocks take care of that error quick and easy and with some pocket hole screws they go in easy and quick and I don't need to clamp the corners of the cabinet the blocks pull the case right in place plus it only takes one screw in each corner,, here we go again ,cheap SOB

4 screws ...to hold the top down...

==============

08-22-2007, 02:51 PM	#1
J0B00 Registered User New Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 6 View J0B00's Gallery	Report This Post! Attaching a Table top. I'm looking into buying the build your own kit from Oak Park, but I'm curious how those of you who have gone this route attached the top to a cabinet. I'm a newbie, so go easy on me...photos do wonders. I'm wanting to get a nicer router as the one I have is junk, as well as the crappy table its on (Skil RAS4510 1 3/4 HP Combo), so I want to save my cash for the router. It hard to adjust this router accurately, and the table is way small. My goal is to build a simple base for the top as cheap as possible. My speed bump is how its attached underneath. I'd probably make a nicer cabinet for it later on down the road, but right now I just want to have something useable so I can get started on some real projects and not spend all my time/money trying to get tools together.
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08-22-2007, 03:05 PM	#2
Drugstore Cowboy Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: May 2007 Location: Fort Worth, Tx Posts: 439 View Drugstore Cowboy's Gallery	Report This Post! There are any number of ways to attach a top - as I am sure you know. I am just finishing a base for my new table -- and I will probably attach the top the way I typically do counter tops and table tops etc. I pretty much always put a corner block for in each corner anyway -- so -- I just drill a hole through it and attach the top from underneath. Pocket screws seem to be hot right now -- so I am sure some folks will give you suggestions on that too -- Pretty much any way you do it that doesnt involve drilling a hole in the top -- to me -- would be preferable.
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08-22-2007, 05:05 PM	#3
Woodnut65 Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 343 View Woodnut65's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Joboo: I have the Oak Park table, it has small furniture connectors that hold everything together. It makes it easy to knock down and use else where. The table top is 3/4" thick. It is very stable. The rest is made of 1/2" baltic birch. Oak Park sells the furniture connectors, they are not expensive. You might consider using triangular pieces in the cabinet corners and secure the top with screws in the corners, making sure they are short enough to not come through the top. hope this helps.. Woodnut65
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08-22-2007, 05:42 PM	#4
J0B00 Registered User New Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 6 View J0B00's Gallery	Report This Post! Woodnut: Did you build the table yourself, or get it premade?? If you made it yourself, what tools were required? When you say it breaks down easy, do you mean you can take the whole table apart, or do you mean its easy to remove the top? Thanks for the help guys! Andy
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08-23-2007, 06:35 AM	#6
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,319 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! As stated, there are many ways to attach table tops, this is the one that I use which allows for seasonal movement of the timber. The only preparation is a 1/8" routed groove as shown. Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Harry*
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08-23-2007, 09:27 AM	#7
J0B00 Registered User New Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 6 View J0B00's Gallery	Report This Post! I might just save up for the completed Oak Park table. All I've got is a table saw and a router right now, which is enough for me to make small boxes and a few other projects that I want to do to get started. I really need a better router solution though and I know it would be worth it to get a nice table, as well as a good router. What are everyone's thoughts on the Dewalt 618 router? I played with it at Lowes the other day, as well as a couple of the porter cable routers, and I really liked how easy it was to adjust. I also like being able to pack the motor and plunge base into a case. I don't have a dedicated shop, so all of my tools are used outdoors. It would be nice to be able to pack up the router and take it in the house for storage rather than leave it out in the shed in the elements. The 618 also seemed very sturdy in its base, which is one of my big complaints with what I'm using now...I don't feel like my current router is held tight when its locked down after making an adjustment. Seems unsafe, as well as inaccurate. The extra HP will help as well...my current solution is 1 3/4 HP and seems to bog down easily. Andy
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08-23-2007, 10:16 AM	#9
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,319 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! You cheapskate Bj. don't you consider the poor storekeeper? but it is a neat idea. __________________ *Harry* Last edited by harrysin; 08-23-2007 at 10:19 AM. Reason: added last sentence
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08-23-2007, 10:38 AM	#10
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,242 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Harry Yep I am a cheap SOB , I always have cut off's and just don't like to put them in the trash can ,,, wood is wood,,, the T & G corner blocks take a bit more work to make but they do a great job, most cabinets are hard to keep sq. and the blocks take care of that error quick and easy and with some pocket hole screws they go in easy and quick and I don't need to clamp the corners of the cabinet the blocks pull the case right in place plus it only takes one screw in each corner,, here we go again ,cheap SOB 4 screws ...to hold the top down... ============== __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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