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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 09-22-2007, 12:01 PM   #11
bobj3
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Hi Mike

I like the way you think

But try this in some scrap stock...

Put in a dado, then cut the stock into two parts drop in some stock and now glue in the stock in the dado , now in one of the parts put in some pocket screws...not to many say 2 or 3...

Now wait for a day,, then take a hammer and NAIL the joint...

I'm sure you will see the joint without the pocket screws will fail 1st.

The helix is a very old device and is very strong device as you know I'm sure.
With the new glue we have now days it's hard to break the seal but it's only a few thousandths of an inch thick unlike the holding power of a screw...
Once the part racks that's it the seal is gone or to say the wood fibers are lifted from the stock and you don't have a strong joint...anymore....

The neat thing about pocket screws is they are a clamp that you can leave in place unlike the one you must remove once the joint is setup with the glue.

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Last edited by Mike; 09-22-2007 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:54 PM   #12
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BJ, The helix is quite old and in fact is nothing but a spiral lever which provides additional pull over it's entire length. I have seen the test reports from Kreg, and I know they suggest using a screw every 4-6" for maximum strength. I use pocket hole screws on a regular basis. I have to build a new bathroom vanity and I will take the leap of faith and try it with the pocket hole construction. I will report back on how it works out. Yes Harry, I will include photos.
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Old 09-23-2007, 05:03 PM   #13
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I made my router cabinet with nothing but dadoes and glue.. It's solid.. The only fasteners I used were a few trim nails with glue holding a 1x2 piece under the front of the table top..
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