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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 09-25-2007, 12:34 PM   #11
Drugstore Cowboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delirous26
Thanks for the reply on this everyone
cowboy you said in the diagram with a cabinet bottom on top you said dado cut would a sliding dovetail work hmmm! and then then the uprights i was thinking pocket holes with glue to the base.
Yes
Sliding dovetails would work even better than dado for joining the top cross-brace to the uprights. That's just about my favorite joint for that purpose
Recently finished a tall cabinet where I used them for all the shelves almost eliminating the need for mechanical fasteners.

Was just trying to keep the design as simple as possible.
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:53 PM   #12
JDługosz
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My design is a cabinet built from plywood. There are no legs, as it is supported by the sides and internal vertical members. The bottom tier has 4 large compartments, opening to the two sides. The middle tier is one huge shelf to hold the Incra fence system when it is not on the table. The upper tier has part opening to the front, with the router motor in the middle and a storage compartment on either side; and the rest of it is two large compartments opening to either side.

The main idea is to effectively use the full three-dimensionality of the space. When parked under the main workbench, it will present a toolbox facade. When approached from the "front" as a router table, it will have the bits and setup tools to either side of the motor compartment.

The carcase was one of my first efforts, and the only hitch I ran into was getting the top flat. The subtop has dados all around the underside which fit into the perimeter panels and all the vertical dividers of that level. It was a complicated shape, glued up in three stages, and did not come out geometrically perfect. I used paper packing tape for shims between the subtop and the final top, to level and flatten it.

So, the lesson learned would be to get the top work surface flat first, and then fasten it to the rest of the structure, as opposed to letting even 3/4" material conform to the structure. 3/4" still has a little bend to it.

--John
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