neoshed

I just assembled my bosch router table and got my craftsman router ( thanks for the reviews) mounted up.

It comes with a mitre slot on the table but no mitre gauge. I can see where a mitre gauge would be useful for sliding stock perpendicular to the fence but is that a normal thing to do? I'm a total neophyte with routers and router tables.

If you do use a mitre gauge did you buy one and if so what make?

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kp91

I use the Oak park setup http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-MGS- , which references off of a guide bushing instead of a slot. If you are interested in getting one, sign up for their mailing list, and you'll get a discount coupon every month or so.

For end cuts on short pieces, I often use a square push block that rides against the fence, simple and easy. This helps prevent tear out on the back of stock as well.

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Doug
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bobj3

Hi neoshed

Here's just one of many,Rockler sells them also..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops..._safety_anchor

BUT you can make your own quick and easy with just some parts and some scrap wood..


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neoshed

thanks for the replies....I think I'll go with the push block idea

challagan

That's what I do, I have never really found a miter guage of much help and on most for me it's to far removed from the area to be safe. For some jobs a miter sled is of more use as well and removes much of the safety concerns.

Corey

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Woodnut65

Hi: If you are going to cut accross the grain, as in doing door rails you will need something to guide the wood. I would suggest that you look into a sled that allows the work to be clamped down for feeding through the bit. Some of the sleds use a miter slot as the guide, and some others use tyour fence itself to guide the work.
Rockler, Infinity, and others sell these sleds. The one from Infinitytools, has a base plate made from 3/8ths thick aluminum, which should be about as rigid as you would reequire. Hope this helps. Woodnut65

jerrymayfield

If you use a miter gauge in a miter slot the fence and the bar of the gauge must be parallel,not so with a sled.

Regards

Jerry

AlexH

I remember when I was building my table, many told me the miter slot was worthless. But I put one in anyway. I must say I use it all the time with my Incra guage. I guess it is what you get used to.

harrysin

On the router table it's push blocks all the time, for rails usually a piece of 3/4" MDF about 5" square, no chance of a botched job.

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bobj3

Just my 2 cents on the miter slot or to say the mitre gauge sled...they work just fine as long you don't try and use the fence and the mitre type sled at the same time.

In away you are trying to use two fences at the same time and if that's the case both need to be parallel but you can use the fence as a stop guage as long it's out a bit out on the end of the pass or to say on the out feed end of the table..

This will let the stock go by the bit with out jaming or getting hung up on the fence.
The track for the sled can be off just a bit because the router table as one cutting point unlike a table saw...BUT the wider the boards the more the error will show up but most of the time the stock is less than 6" wide the norm..

But I also agree a push block is the best way and just use the fence for the guide and keep the bearing out of play most of the time..
I have found out if you use wider boards and then rip them to right size works best for me...this keeps the rip out down to a min. and if you get on one you can just cut it off with the rip job after the router did it's work...plus all the parts are the same size the norm...this works great for making cabinet doors and boxes,drawers,...etc.


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