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Peter Sanders · 10-26-2007, 08:19 PM

Hi Bobj3

I *think* I might have found it?

It's NOT quite like the pictures I have in my mind. It's in a book I bought yesterday. I need to review the method again before posting here. I'll get back to this thread soon

BTW the book method uses template guides, not bearing guides, that's why I am not sure if it is exactly the same method. (searching brain now for more memory details

)

**bobj3** · 10-26-2007, 08:33 PM

Hi Peter

Pls. do..

template guides would make it harder to use the rabbet bit because of the size of the cutter..( OD ,Out side dia.) of the bit..

I'm looking for to your feed back

thanks

=============

Lee Brubaker · 10-26-2007, 10:18 PM

It seems to me that the "slick" method is not as slick as it should be if you gotta mess around with a chisel on the ledge that the table insert is going to sit on. What should be done with the "slick" method is to use sticks for the template thick enough to catch the bearing on the template bit when you place the insert plate across a corner of the sticks set the plunge router on the plate insert and lower the bit so that it just touches the surface of the table. Remove the table insert and rout around the template.The material removed is the thickness of the table insert.
Certainly, no messing around with a chisel will be necessary.

Lee

labric · 10-27-2007, 01:26 AM

Hi Peter

I believe you are referring to an old post of mine in response to "Mowerhappys" request for help in post " Baseplate and Recess Template Help"

I describe the method I utilized to make a baseplate template for cutting and recessing the baseplate into the router table, using a spiral bit, rabbetting bit and guide bushings.

Quote:

Here are some notes and pictures to pass along to you.

Picture #1:
Shows materials and equipment used.

Picture #2:
To make a new template, I used a 1/8" spacer on two sides only of the baseplate, then used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 3/8 guide bushing to cut the template.

Picture # 3:
Using the new template, I used a 1/4" spiral bit and 1" guide bushing to cut a hole through my table top. Take your time and cut no deeper than 1/4" at a time, and make several passes until you cut through.

Picture #4:
Shows you the cutout I made and the 1-1/4" rabbetting bit c/w 1/2" bearing used to cut the rabbet around the inside edge of the access hole.

Picture #5:
Completed base plate cutout in the table. Note the addition of leveling screws under the baseplate to adjust for minor height variances that may occur due to any sagging, humity changes, etc.

Picture #6:
The saved template for future use, should I want to make another table top down the road.

To see the original post http://www.routerforums.com/portable...late-help.html

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00660.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00667.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00664.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00665.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00662.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...p-dcp00666.jpg

It worked real well for both of us as far as I know.

Hope this helps!!

Ric

**bobj3** · 10-27-2007, 06:22 AM

Just my 2 cents

After taking a hard look at all the ways to put in the router table base plate I would say the Bench Dog way is the best way,, it's lookls like the real easy way to get the job done, the router plate can be any size or it can be off just a bit but the Bench Dog way will take care of that error....the center cut out is not a big deal because it's scrap stock once it's cut out but the lip to hold the base plate must be dead on and the pattern bit will do that job very well

, plus you can use just about any size router to get the job done almost every one has a jig saw to cut out the 3/4" to
1 3/4" thick plug (center) then just use a light router with the pattern to put the lip in place and you'er done..

==============

**harrysin** · 10-27-2007, 09:04 AM

I'm certain that both Tom and myself would do it like Labric, the difference being that the template would be 4 pieces of MDF glued together leaving the correct size opening, and of course there is no need for the rounded corners as the template guide will produce this in the table.

Peter Sanders · 11-01-2007, 09:53 PM

Hi

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

I'm certain that both Tom and myself would do it like Labric, the difference being that the template would be 4 pieces of MDF glued together leaving the correct size opening, and of course there is no need for the rounded corners as the template guide will produce this in the table.

Even this is too much like hard work when compared with the method to which I refer.

Peter Sanders · 11-01-2007, 10:56 PM

Hi

Ok for all those that wanted to know how "it's" done!

I found the method that I think is the correct one, though not quite like I recall.

The method is in this book...

http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-B.../dp/0762101857

on pages 170-172.

I have emailled Bill Hylton the author, seeking pernission to use these pages either here or where specified by Bill. That way (hopefully) all the info, not just snippets, can be made available for curent and future members to utilise.

Members just might even buy the book, I did and can highly recommend it

If permission is not granted then I will do my best to describe the method without infringing copyright. I can draw quite well.

Thanks for your patience, I will get back to you asap - awaiting Bill's reply.

**bobj3** · 11-01-2007, 11:28 PM

Hi Peter

I have the book and just took a look at it and it's the same as the one(s) that has been posted in this thread.......the template way...with a jig saw cut out..but no rabbet bit that I could see..

But I will say you need to take one more hard look at the BenchDog way,,,
no math needed ,,,and it's done with one bit and a jig saw,,,,It's hard to make any install errors..
The pattern bit is the key,,,

no templates needed just some sticks and some double sided carpet tape ...

http://www.benchdog.com/faq-installprolift.htm
----------------

=========

===========

**harrysin** · 11-02-2007, 01:03 AM

Damn it Bj., I was expecting some NEW method that even Template Tom hadn't come up with.

10-26-2007, 08:19 PM	#11
Peter Sanders Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 11 View Peter Sanders's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Bobj3 I think I might have found it? It's NOT quite like the pictures I have in my mind. It's in a book I bought yesterday. I need to review the method again before posting here. I'll get back to this thread soon BTW the book method uses template guides, not bearing guides, that's why I am not sure if it is exactly the same method. (searching brain now for more memory details ) __________________ Kind regards Peter
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-26-2007, 08:33 PM	#12
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,502 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Peter Pls. do.. template guides would make it harder to use the rabbet bit because of the size of the cutter..( OD ,Out side dia.) of the bit.. I'm looking for to your feed back thanks ============= __________________ Bj
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-26-2007, 10:18 PM	#13
Lee Brubaker Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 140 View Lee Brubaker's Gallery	Report This Post! It seems to me that the "slick" method is not as slick as it should be if you gotta mess around with a chisel on the ledge that the table insert is going to sit on. What should be done with the "slick" method is to use sticks for the template thick enough to catch the bearing on the template bit when you place the insert plate across a corner of the sticks set the plunge router on the plate insert and lower the bit so that it just touches the surface of the table. Remove the table insert and rout around the template.The material removed is the thickness of the table insert. Certainly, no messing around with a chisel will be necessary. Lee
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-27-2007, 06:22 AM	#15
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,502 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Just my 2 cents After taking a hard look at all the ways to put in the router table base plate I would say the Bench Dog way is the best way,, it's lookls like the real easy way to get the job done, the router plate can be any size or it can be off just a bit but the Bench Dog way will take care of that error....the center cut out is not a big deal because it's scrap stock once it's cut out but the lip to hold the base plate must be dead on and the pattern bit will do that job very well , plus you can use just about any size router to get the job done almost every one has a jig saw to cut out the 3/4" to 1 3/4" thick plug (center) then just use a light router with the pattern to put the lip in place and you'er done.. ============== __________________ Bj
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-27-2007, 09:04 AM	#16
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,992 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! I'm certain that both Tom and myself would do it like Labric, the difference being that the template would be 4 pieces of MDF glued together leaving the correct size opening, and of course there is no need for the rounded corners as the template guide will produce this in the table. __________________ *Harry*
	Top - Reply with Quote

11-01-2007, 10:56 PM	#18
Peter Sanders Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 11 View Peter Sanders's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Ok for all those that wanted to know how "it's" done! I found the method that I think is the correct one, though not quite like I recall. The method is in this book... http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-B.../dp/0762101857 on pages 170-172. I have emailled Bill Hylton the author, seeking pernission to use these pages either here or where specified by Bill. That way (hopefully) all the info, not just snippets, can be made available for curent and future members to utilise. Members just might even buy the book, I did and can highly recommend it If permission is not granted then I will do my best to describe the method without infringing copyright. I can draw quite well. Thanks for your patience, I will get back to you asap - awaiting Bill's reply. __________________ Kind regards Peter
	Top - Reply with Quote

11-01-2007, 11:28 PM	#19
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,502 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hi Peter I have the book and just took a look at it and it's the same as the one(s) that has been posted in this thread.......the template way...with a jig saw cut out..but no rabbet bit that I could see.. But I will say you need to take one more hard look at the BenchDog way,,, no math needed ,,,and it's done with one bit and a jig saw,,,,It's hard to make any install errors.. The pattern bit is the key,,, no templates needed just some sticks and some double sided carpet tape ... http://www.benchdog.com/faq-installprolift.htm ---------------- ========= =========== __________________ Bj Last edited by bobj3; 11-02-2007 at 08:08 AM.
	Top - Reply with Quote

11-02-2007, 01:03 AM	#20
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,992 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! Damn it Bj., I was expecting some NEW method that even Template Tom hadn't come up with. __________________ *Harry*
	Top - Reply with Quote

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