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jimcrockett · 10-23-2007, 10:51 PM

The bottom rail on my wooden 4-panel garage door needs to be replaced. It is worn badly and is incorrectly installed so that water seeps down the outside, under the bottom, and inside. Image #1 shows the garage door bottom rail and #2 shows the rail-stile joint that I need to produce.

It appears to me that the joinery is similar to a round-over rail and stile door router bit set. However, the bottom door rail and the stiles are 1-1/8" thick so I need to figure out how to make the tenon thicker and longer.

I saw a router bit on infinity's website, called an "Extended Tenon Cutter", but it is only available in ogee and shaker styles. This makes a 7/16" thick tenon as long as you want it to be.

My thought is that with 1-1/8" stock, I would probably want the tenon to be 1/2" thick and at least 1-1/2" long.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could accomplish this? I suppose if all else failed, I could route a mortise and tenon and then glue on some quarter-round molding but that really wouldn't do anything for the rail and stile joints.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

JimC

Hamlin · 11-02-2007, 07:02 PM

A bull nose or round over should give you the best results for a rounded tenon. If that is what you're trying to do.

**bobj3** · 11-02-2007, 07:44 PM

Hi Jim

They make router bit sets just for this type of job..

They are not cheap but if you take the door apart I'm almost sure you will see this type of joint ..see below....

You can dig a bit on the Net and find the set a bit cheaper..the KATANA brand is the higher end of MLCS router bits...If I recall the last time a looked for this set I found it for 75.00 dollars...Price Cutters I think...

but the key to keep the water out of this type of joint is to paint it to seal the joint and make it water tight..you can also use some silcone around the joint but not inside the joint...

KATANA 2 Piece Matched Rail and Stile Set For Entry Doors

http://www.amazon.com/KATANA-Piece-M...046398&sr=1-45

OR

From eBay ,at about 50.oo bucks
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ENTRY-...QQcmdZViewItem

----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimcrockett

The bottom rail on my wooden 4-panel garage door needs to be replaced. It is worn badly and is incorrectly installed so that water seeps down the outside, under the bottom, and inside. Image #1 shows the garage door bottom rail and #2 shows the rail-stile joint that I need to produce.

It appears to me that the joinery is similar to a round-over rail and stile door router bit set. However, the bottom door rail and the stiles are 1-1/8" thick so I need to figure out how to make the tenon thicker and longer.

I saw a router bit on infinity's website, called an "Extended Tenon Cutter", but it is only available in ogee and shaker styles. This makes a 7/16" thick tenon as long as you want it to be.

My thought is that with 1-1/8" stock, I would probably want the tenon to be 1/2" thick and at least 1-1/2" long.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could accomplish this? I suppose if all else failed, I could route a mortise and tenon and then glue on some quarter-round molding but that really wouldn't do anything for the rail and stile joints.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

JimC

curiousgeorge · 11-02-2007, 08:04 PM

Seems to me for the price of the Katana bit set you could almost buy a new door.

**bobj3** · 11-02-2007, 08:59 PM

Hi george

Almost, one of the painted Steel/Alum. ones that don't rust

I replace my wooden one on my garage with one of the insulated white steel ones after I checked on the price of a wooden one.. the wood ones do sag in time.

if I recall it was $345.oo bucks installed...and they took the old one with them...

=============

Quote:

Originally Posted by curiousgeorge

Seems to me for the price of the Katana bit set you could almost buy a new door.

curiousgeorge · 11-03-2007, 12:30 AM

I recently replaced one of my garage doors and installed it myself for less than $200. It's really a fairly simple job. One person can do it but it's a lot easier with two.

**bobj3** · 11-03-2007, 12:49 AM

Hi george

You'er right they are easy to install ,the one I had replace was a 8' x 16' ,,along time ago I was a garage door installer for about 2 years, and we/I aways did it by myself the only thing I didn't care for to much I always got stuck with the new homes with all the drywall stacked up in the garage , it woiuld take me more time to move the drywall then it took to hang the door, and I didn't care for was winding up the spring over the door ,they can be a bit scarey sometimes and I always got stuck with that type...unlike the easy ones with cable and springs on the rails...

I did most of them in the dark with just a flash light, it was a 2nd job for me after the normal one ...but good money...

-----------------

---

Quote:

Originally Posted by curiousgeorge

I recently replaced one of my garage doors and installed it myself for less than $200. It's really a fairly simple job. One person can do it but it's a lot easier with two.

Paul Dyar · 08-06-2008, 02:29 PM

In the process of making 2. I used roundover bit and mitered the joints. (Time consuming) Used tendon jig to make tendons Used dado to cut grove in the rails. And will use rabbet bit for the panels and glass.

Dr.Zook · 08-06-2008, 09:56 PM

Welcome to the forums Paul.

Al Killian · 08-06-2008, 09:58 PM

I have the same type of profile on my doors. First run the stock over a dado blade to make the groove. Then you can do the round over sides. Or if you really like spending money, buy the set and you will have it for doors if you ever need to make some. Your door is much newer then mine. Mine are from the ?, well not sure. Still have the square nuts.

10-23-2007, 10:51 PM	#1
jimcrockett Registered User Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Jay, Maine, U.S. Posts: 26 View jimcrockett's Gallery	Report This Post! Garage Door Joinery The bottom rail on my wooden 4-panel garage door needs to be replaced. It is worn badly and is incorrectly installed so that water seeps down the outside, under the bottom, and inside. Image #1 shows the garage door bottom rail and #2 shows the rail-stile joint that I need to produce. It appears to me that the joinery is similar to a round-over rail and stile door router bit set. However, the bottom door rail and the stiles are 1-1/8" thick so I need to figure out how to make the tenon thicker and longer. I saw a router bit on infinity's website, called an "Extended Tenon Cutter", but it is only available in ogee and shaker styles. This makes a 7/16" thick tenon as long as you want it to be. My thought is that with 1-1/8" stock, I would probably want the tenon to be 1/2" thick and at least 1-1/2" long. Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could accomplish this? I suppose if all else failed, I could route a mortise and tenon and then glue on some quarter-round molding but that really wouldn't do anything for the rail and stile joints. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. JimC Attached Thumbnails
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11-02-2007, 07:02 PM	#2
Hamlin Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Baldwin City, KS First Name: Ken Posts: 1,570 View Hamlin's Gallery	Report This Post! A bull nose or round over should give you the best results for a rounded tenon. If that is what you're trying to do. __________________ Ken "A VETERAN" "Whether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life". That is HONOR, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." -Author Unknown
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11-02-2007, 08:04 PM	#4
curiousgeorge Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Fort Worth,Texas USA First Name: George Posts: 1,579 View curiousgeorge's Gallery	Report This Post! Seems to me for the price of the Katana bit set you could almost buy a new door. __________________ George For those who haven't already done so... PLEASE! PLEASE! Fill in your first name and location in your profile. I like to know who you are and where you are from. If you don't want me to know who you are, then I don't want to talk to you.
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11-03-2007, 12:30 AM	#6
curiousgeorge Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Fort Worth,Texas USA First Name: George Posts: 1,579 View curiousgeorge's Gallery	Report This Post! I recently replaced one of my garage doors and installed it myself for less than $200. It's really a fairly simple job. One person can do it but it's a lot easier with two. __________________ George For those who haven't already done so... PLEASE! PLEASE! Fill in your first name and location in your profile. I like to know who you are and where you are from. If you don't want me to know who you are, then I don't want to talk to you.
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08-06-2008, 02:29 PM	#8
Paul Dyar Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 First Name: Paul Posts: 1 View Paul Dyar's Gallery	Report This Post! In the process of making 2. I used roundover bit and mitered the joints. (Time consuming) Used tendon jig to make tendons Used dado to cut grove in the rails. And will use rabbet bit for the panels and glass.
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08-06-2008, 09:56 PM	#9
Dr.Zook Official Greeter Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Lebanon, Ohio "USA" First Name: Dave or "Doc" Posts: 4,678 View Dr.Zook's Gallery	Report This Post! Welcome to the forums Paul. __________________ Dave the "Doctor" In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood. Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum.
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08-06-2008, 09:58 PM	#10
Al Killian Registered User Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 10 View Al Killian's Gallery	Report This Post! I have the same type of profile on my doors. First run the stock over a dado blade to make the groove. Then you can do the round over sides. Or if you really like spending money, buy the set and you will have it for doors if you ever need to make some. Your door is much newer then mine. Mine are from the ?, well not sure. Still have the square nuts.
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