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Old 11-12-2007, 02:46 PM   #11
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Hi SB

Pickup a Ruler one of the 6ft or 4ft ones, or 8ft one they come in handy for plywood and the price is right for them...and they should be true...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by S Bolton
What is the best way to check for level (across the top of the mdf)? 89.00 steel bar from Lee Valley? Something cheaper from Menards, Home Depot?

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Old 11-12-2007, 03:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Actually there is virtually no movement once the two pieces with contact cement come together.. . . BJ is absolutely right when he says it's easier to use white or yellow glue by yourself. . .
There is definitely a skill involved in using contact cement.
One I certainly have not mastered.
I still use it for laminating Formica onto countertops ---
But for most anything else --- I have fallen in love with TitebondIII.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:37 PM   #13
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Hi Cowboy

I also like Titebond glues the only thing I don't like about the number #3 is the price...
It's bit over kill if the project is going to be inside all the time.. if the MDF gets wet that's ,it's firewood... LOL like many of the man made woods/boards/plywoods..

http://www.titebond.com/WNTitebondIIITB.asp

http://www.rockler.com/search_result...x=0&submit.y=0



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Old 11-12-2007, 04:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
I also like Titebond glues the only thing I don't like about the number #3 is the price...
It's bit over kill if the project is going to be inside all the time..
Agreed on both points - but there are things it is ideal for -- and I don't like having to pick and choose -- so I just buy a big a bottle of III as I can find to help offset the cost.
If I am out of glue and need something for inside only -- I usually grab good old Elmers Carpenters wood glue.

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if the MDF gets wet that's ,it's firewood... LOL
If it actually gets WET I'm not so sure it's even good for that -
Maybe kindling -- I thought your earier comparison to cardboard was superb.

ALTHOUGH - to give it credit ---
I threw myself a desk together once -- with an MDF to --- and didn't get around to painting it for about 2 years.
It had set there raw all that time with coffee cups and hand oil etc -- and was still in decent enough shape I was able to prime and paint and keep using it.
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:29 PM   #15
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The trick in using Contact cement for me is using either thick waxed wrapping paper or cardboard in between the two boards. Let the contact cement get almost dry then pulling the paper or cardboard out. I also used two 24" x 38" pieces of MDF. But I screwed them together. Thinking that if the top piece went bad from dents and stuff - I could just unscrew it and replace it. I pre-drilled the holes - screwed it together - then unscrew them and used a scraper to remove anything that had lifted up. Then screwed it back together. Seemed to work good for me. I was afraid to use a water based glue not knowing if it would swell the MFD.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dharmabum
I'm just finishing up a modified version of Norm's new router table, and that's what I used. One (1) layer of 1/2" and one (1) layer of 3/4" MDF glued with titebond III, and screwed together. Just be careful you don't get any screws where you will be cutting for a insert plate.

Once the glue cures, pull out the screws. They aren't going to be doing anything anymore
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:00 PM   #17
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Thanks for all the input. Bob mentioned rulers/straight edges. I live in a rural area. Where is the best place to get one?

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Old 11-13-2007, 05:01 PM   #18
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Old 11-13-2007, 05:44 PM   #19
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Hi SB

UPS can put it right at your front door
Save gas and time looking for one, ROckler/Lee Valley/many on the net would love to put one in your hands and can do it in a day if you want it that quick.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi...rulers&x=0&y=0

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Thanks for all the input. Bob mentioned rulers/straight edges. I live in a rural area. Where is the best place to get one?

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Old 11-13-2007, 06:12 PM   #20
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I don't need one that quick but thanks for the advise.

I have used contact adhesives before for plastic laminate. I used dowels to hold the two surfaces apart until the minute of truth.

I think with the MDF, that I would simple make it oversize and then cut it to the dimensions I seek (using contact adhesives)

thanks

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