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Nickbee · 01-14-2008, 01:42 PM

I’m a newbie when it comes to joints. I’ve set up my router table and I’m having a good time learning about its capabilities (and limitations).

A few projects I’m looking to do require mortise and tenon joints. My plan was to use my router table and fense to “plunge” cut the mortises with a straight up cut bit. Then use my coping sled and a slot cutter to cut the tenons. This is going to leave me with rounded mortises and squared off tenons.

So my options as I see it are:

1) Use a chisel to square up the mortise (ick)
2) Use a rasp, sandpaper, something to round off the tenon (not as bad)
3) Just make the mortise slightly longer so the square tenon will fit (easiest option)

Now I realize that that option #3 would be the worse case for strength, but I’m wondering if that’s an acceptable way to do things. I guess it would also depend on how much stress the joint is going to get.

**bobj3** · 01-14-2008, 02:31 PM

Hi Nickbee

A over size joint is a weak joint,,,

If the joint moves the glue will fail ...and it will come apart..in time..

Just square the holes out...with a tool that's made just for that..

Corner Mortising Chisel , Cabinetmaker Chisel

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../routacc3.html
=====

Sometimes you can use this type, 2ea. for 10.oo bucks, if the hole is not to deep...or you can take one apart and use it without the corner brace...if you buy that item you get 2ea. for the price of one..

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...quare%20chisel
==========
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../cornchis.html
=============

Or you can play with it and just sand it down until it fits..

=============

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickbee

I’m a newbie when it comes to joints. I’ve set up my router table and I’m having a good time learning about its capabilities (and limitations).

A few projects I’m looking to do require mortise and tenon joints. My plan was to use my router table and fense to “plunge” cut the mortises with a straight up cut bit. Then use my coping sled and a slot cutter to cut the tenons. This is going to leave me with rounded mortises and squared off tenons.

So my options as I see it are:

1) Use a chisel to square up the mortise (ick)
2) Use a rasp, sandpaper, something to round off the tenon (not as bad)
3) Just make the mortise slightly longer so the square tenon will fit (easiest option)

Now I realize that that option #3 would be the worse case for strength, but I’m wondering if that’s an acceptable way to do things. I guess it would also depend on how much stress the joint is going to get.

Nickbee · 01-14-2008, 02:52 PM

great BJ, you are going to make me buy more tools. Thanks

**bobj3** · 01-14-2008, 03:16 PM

Hi Nickbee

hahahahahahaha, the right tool for the right job, it makes the job come out just the way you want it to

and it makes it fun on top of that..if it's not fun you will not do it again

and I'm almost sure you can't wait to get that slot cutter in the router and play with it one more time.....

=======

====

Hamlin · 01-14-2008, 04:13 PM

Have you tried or considered a "loose tenon & mortise"? Cut the mortises as norm with the router but, the tenon, you use a round-over bit to make the edge match the mortise.

Nickbee · 01-14-2008, 04:33 PM

Hey Hamlin. I have not tried either a loose or integral joint yet. But I have done rails and stiles. Figured I'll get around to trying all the kind of joints eventually.

Bj, you hit the nail on the head!

**bobj3** · 01-14-2008, 05:18 PM

Hi NickBee

OR You can spend some more money and get Beadlock
When it comes to woodworking equipment I can empty your pockets quick

3/8'' Beadlock Basic Starter Kit
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=loose%20tenon

Sometimes called a floating tenons...

==============

woodcarver · 01-14-2008, 09:26 PM

Had trouble with the Bead Lock. I could not get a mortise 90 degrees to the face of the rail. It turned out the face of the jig was not milled flat. After three replacement having the same problem I gave up. The jig plates are stamped and can easily be bent. Maybe if they were milled?

Tony

woodcarver · 01-14-2008, 09:30 PM

PS
I use loose tendons, they work well.
I also use Dowlemax: very easy and very accurate, but also very expensive.
More tools to buy.

Tony

Joe Lyddon · 01-14-2008, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickbee

I’m a newbie when it comes to joints. I’ve set up my router table and I’m having a good time learning about its capabilities (and limitations).

A few projects I’m looking to do require mortise and tenon joints. My plan was to use my router table and fense to “plunge” cut the mortises with a straight up cut bit. Then use my coping sled and a slot cutter to cut the tenons. This is going to leave me with rounded mortises and squared off tenons.

So my options as I see it are:

1) Use a chisel to square up the mortise (ick)
2) Use a rasp, sandpaper, something to round off the tenon (not as bad)
3) Just make the mortise slightly longer so the square tenon will fit (easiest option)

Now I realize that that option #3 would be the worse case for strength, but I’m wondering if that’s an acceptable way to do things. I guess it would also depend on how much stress the joint is going to get.

Six of one and a Half dozen of the other...

IMHO, pick the easiest between #1 & 2 (forget #3) and do it.

I, personally, round the tenons.

01-14-2008, 01:42 PM	#1
Nickbee Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 344 View Nickbee's Gallery	Rounded Mortise & Squared Tenons? I’m a newbie when it comes to joints. I’ve set up my router table and I’m having a good time learning about its capabilities (and limitations). A few projects I’m looking to do require mortise and tenon joints. My plan was to use my router table and fense to “plunge” cut the mortises with a straight up cut bit. Then use my coping sled and a slot cutter to cut the tenons. This is going to leave me with rounded mortises and squared off tenons. So my options as I see it are: 1) Use a chisel to square up the mortise (ick) 2) Use a rasp, sandpaper, something to round off the tenon (not as bad) 3) Just make the mortise slightly longer so the square tenon will fit (easiest option) Now I realize that that option #3 would be the worse case for strength, but I’m wondering if that’s an acceptable way to do things. I guess it would also depend on how much stress the joint is going to get.
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01-14-2008, 03:16 PM	#4
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,137 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Nickbee hahahahahahaha, the right tool for the right job, it makes the job come out just the way you want it to and it makes it fun on top of that..if it's not fun you will not do it again and I'm almost sure you can't wait to get that slot cutter in the router and play with it one more time..... ======= ==== __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/
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01-14-2008, 04:13 PM	#5
Hamlin Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Baldwin City, KS Posts: 1,374 View Hamlin's Gallery	Have you tried or considered a "loose tenon & mortise"? Cut the mortises as norm with the router but, the tenon, you use a round-over bit to make the edge match the mortise. __________________ Ken (On temporary leave of abscense) "A VETERAN" "Wether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life". That is HONOR, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." -Author Unknown
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01-14-2008, 04:33 PM	#6
Nickbee Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 344 View Nickbee's Gallery	Hey Hamlin. I have not tried either a loose or integral joint yet. But I have done rails and stiles. Figured I'll get around to trying all the kind of joints eventually. Bj, you hit the nail on the head!
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01-14-2008, 05:18 PM	#7
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,137 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi NickBee OR You can spend some more money and get Beadlock When it comes to woodworking equipment I can empty your pockets quick 3/8'' Beadlock Basic Starter Kit http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=loose%20tenon Sometimes called a floating tenons... ============== __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/
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01-14-2008, 02:52 PM	#3
Nickbee Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 344 View Nickbee's Gallery	great BJ, you are going to make me buy more tools. Thanks
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01-14-2008, 09:26 PM	#8
woodcarver Registered User New Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Sacramento Posts: 9 View woodcarver's Gallery	Had trouble with the Bead Lock. I could not get a mortise 90 degrees to the face of the rail. It turned out the face of the jig was not milled flat. After three replacement having the same problem I gave up. The jig plates are stamped and can easily be bent. Maybe if they were milled? Tony
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01-14-2008, 09:30 PM	#9
woodcarver Registered User New Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Sacramento Posts: 9 View woodcarver's Gallery	PS I use loose tendons, they work well. I also use Dowlemax: very easy and very accurate, but also very expensive. More tools to buy. Tony
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