robdunstan

I am needing advice on purchasing 2 routers for my shop table.

I have a 5'x10' work table that I want to install 2 routers to(one will have a flush trim bit and the other will have a 1/4 round over bit). I work with 1/2" bc plywood (hence the 1/4 round over bit) mainly and also use MDF patterns to make specific parts( hence the need for the flush trim bit). I need the routers to be able to drop completely below the table surfaces when not needed, but, here's the catch,, i need the routers to have the ability to be raised to a preset height when needed. The height of the 1/4 bit will ALWAYS be the same.

Brand is not an issue. I could care less. I am tired of swapping the two router bits out and then wasting time trying to get the height just perfect.

Thanks in advance to all!!

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bobj3

Hi robdunstan

How about two routers and two mouting plates for about 260.oo bucks, and if you buy the routers on line on SUNDAY from 6:00PM to 6:00AM you can take off -10%...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...cemldffidflk.0

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94331

http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/70...als-sears.html

Plus they have what you want plus some...

" I need the routers to have the ability to be raised to a preset height when needed"

If you use the plunge router base in the router table It has the depth bar and all you need to do is push the router up in place and lock it into the preset height....then your set to run.



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Bob J.

curiousgeorge

Welcome, Rob.
If one of your requirements is constant depth setting then plunge routers are what you need for the table. With a plunge you can set the depth stop to your desired setting and the stop will let you return to that depth easily. The Sears router that Bj mentioned is a good buy and you will have the plunge base as well as fixed.

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George
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robdunstan

i'm not interested in using a plate if i can get away with it. these routers will be single purpose routers dedicated to the bit installed. The bit will only be removed for replacement as needed, therefore the benefits of a plate is null.

also, i am needing a router that can go from dropped below table height to raised to a preset height quickly. Once the height is set initially, that will be the height it must always raise to.

Can you do that with a plunge mount? i've only used fixed base routers, so I was just wondering.

bobj3

Hi robdunstan

You want to use the plates,,,it will let you lift the router out the top side to set the bit and change the bits...

"Can you do that with a plunge mount?" = yes


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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

curiousgeorge

Yes. That is why I recommended a plunge. Once you have the plunge stop set to the desired height you can then drop the bit below the table and return to the set height easily. The stop will not allow you to go any farther than what it is set to.

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George
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robdunstan

Thanks for the help. I dont really feel the need for the plate as the bit will be installed prior to mounting the routers and only one size hole will ever be needed. i will have access to the routers from below for swap outs and initial setup. i do understand your recomendation and i appreciate it.

also, any idea on a more industrial type router. i've already went through 3 Craftsman routers. I have a Frued on my saw table but even that is straining. Plywood is murder on a router bit. Looking for a high HP motor that is sealed as much as possible.

curiousgeorge

Rob, I have a 2 1/4 Triton mounted on my table and they also have a 3 1/4 model. These machines are made to be mounted on a table and allow above table bit changes. That way, once you have mounted the router, you don't have to remove the router to change the bits when needed. I might suggest that you clean the router with compressed air to get the dust out of the motor every once in a while. That might help a little in the longevity department. Either of these routers should have enough power to handle what you want. They run about $200 so it won't break the bank too bad.

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bobj3

Hi Rob

It almost sounds like you should take a hard look at a pair of shapers and use them on the outside edge of your 5' x 10' work bench .. or build a new bench around them..or one at each corner of the work bench............you can get one for as low as 360.oo ea. for a 3/4HP one..
http://grizzly.com/products/3-4-HP-Shaper/G0510Z

Good Luck with your quest..

=============

__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

Drugstore Cowboy

With all due respect to the people who make and sell and use and love router table plates ---
- I don't see any reason in the world you would need one
- or even want one - for what you are looking to do.
The only benefit I see to plates is making bit-changing easier -- and you said that was something you specifically were not going to be doing.

After you pick your routers -- just go under your tabletop and route out a circle just large enough to fit your base and handles -- leaving about 3/8" thickness.
Then bore your screw holes and center hole --- and you are good to go.
With the exception of those few small holes -- your top remains solid.

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